Radiator and hoses
Discussion
Hi
Can anyone find the link to the discussion about replacement radiators please? I can’t find it but seem to remember someone saying a Subaru one fitted - not sure though. I managed to get back from Spa but the rad burst on the hill out of Dover. I managed to get over to the lay-by and met up with Ali from Iraq who had just been dropped off by a Bulgarian lorry driver. We had a kind of conversation about London then he had to go - hopped over the hedge and wandered off!
Anyway - any help on the radiator appreciated!
Kev
Can anyone find the link to the discussion about replacement radiators please? I can’t find it but seem to remember someone saying a Subaru one fitted - not sure though. I managed to get back from Spa but the rad burst on the hill out of Dover. I managed to get over to the lay-by and met up with Ali from Iraq who had just been dropped off by a Bulgarian lorry driver. We had a kind of conversation about London then he had to go - hopped over the hedge and wandered off!
Anyway - any help on the radiator appreciated!
Kev
There are mixed feelings about new radiators anyway. Unless yours is accident damaged it will be repairable. Several of us have used the specialists Hartlepool Radiator, they recently did one for a concours condition S, who do a really excellent job. (Martin was delighted!) They can readily do it by 'mail order' and it is a lot cheaper these days to send it by courier.
Although you can fit an alloy, they are more brittle and have been known to crack, or Subaru. The TVR isnt as rigid as a modern car and flexing alloy isnt good! The original rad, which is LDV with an extra set of tubes, is pretty high performance. It has lasted over 25 years and the standard of the Hartlepool Radiator job suggests it should last 25 years more.
If you do contact them please mention you got the contact from the TVR club. They have proved to be really good guys and all goodwill would be welcome. A good company is always worth recommending.
They also repair fuel tanks and are sole UK agents for a special USA system which is very impressive. They have now done a few for S owners.
If you use them, please do let us know if you are just as satisfied.
Although you can fit an alloy, they are more brittle and have been known to crack, or Subaru. The TVR isnt as rigid as a modern car and flexing alloy isnt good! The original rad, which is LDV with an extra set of tubes, is pretty high performance. It has lasted over 25 years and the standard of the Hartlepool Radiator job suggests it should last 25 years more.
If you do contact them please mention you got the contact from the TVR club. They have proved to be really good guys and all goodwill would be welcome. A good company is always worth recommending.
They also repair fuel tanks and are sole UK agents for a special USA system which is very impressive. They have now done a few for S owners.
If you use them, please do let us know if you are just as satisfied.
Edited by greymrj on Tuesday 22 May 17:30
By chance this link turned up today in the context of a replacement S fuel tank (on another S Forum post) http://radtec.co.uk/products/323/TVR-S--V8.htm
Seems expensive, but I don't know if that represents good value for money nowadays ? Mine was repaired a few years ago by the previous owner at a local place at a very reasonable cost.
Seems expensive, but I don't know if that represents good value for money nowadays ? Mine was repaired a few years ago by the previous owner at a local place at a very reasonable cost.
Admittedly I only had a leak and some joint repairs, but my local Express Radiators (Norwich) did a fine job and no probs now.
If it can be repaired then do that. I hear that replacement aluminium auditors are not only expensive but work too well! - ie they do not allow it to get warm enough.
If it can be repaired then do that. I hear that replacement aluminium auditors are not only expensive but work too well! - ie they do not allow it to get warm enough.
If it's possible for the radiator to work too well then your thermostat isn't working properly or is set to the wrong temperature.
I replaced my radtec radiator with a mishimoto subaru one after it broke. I expect the new rad will break in much the same way after similar period of time but it's considerably cheaper (it's not as nicely made).
If I still had it I'd recore the original one. Under the bonnet of an S is a very harsh environment for it and aluminium doesn't appreciate it all that much.
I replaced my radtec radiator with a mishimoto subaru one after it broke. I expect the new rad will break in much the same way after similar period of time but it's considerably cheaper (it's not as nicely made).
If I still had it I'd recore the original one. Under the bonnet of an S is a very harsh environment for it and aluminium doesn't appreciate it all that much.
lordofthewings said:
By chance this link turned up today in the context of a replacement S fuel tank (on another S Forum post) http://radtec.co.uk/products/323/TVR-S--V8.htm
Seems expensive, but I don't know if that represents good value for money nowadays ? ......
I got through two RadTec radiators before I gave up and went back to an old-skool copper rad. Re-core was £220.00 so less than half the cost of a RadTec one. I think it runs cooler now as well.Seems expensive, but I don't know if that represents good value for money nowadays ? ......
kevroe said:
....met up with Ali from Iraq who had just been dropped off by a Bulgarian lorry driver. ........
I thought we were "taking back control of our borders" now? 
Long story short:
During a tour in Wales, the RadTech aluminium radiator on my S3c developed a crack which leaked when cold but sealed when hot.
I was lucky to notice the big pool of coolant that was dumped overnight.
Ino my garage I had a spare old original S Series radiator in need of a re-core which I took along to Dixons Radiators in Denton, nr. Manchester. A proper irrepressible old-skool specialist in his 80's, he immediately recognised the radiator as a Leyland variant; but with a core he wasn't sure of. It would be expensive because he had no stock of the special core and would have to order it in from his supplier.
4 days later, he rang me to say it was ready to collect.The bill? Better sit down... . £240.00!
Super job, like a new one All fitted and doing sterling service ever since.
My view? Aluminium radiators are great for smooth race circuits and the like, but for our modern rough potholed roads, original is far more compliant and durable
During a tour in Wales, the RadTech aluminium radiator on my S3c developed a crack which leaked when cold but sealed when hot.
I was lucky to notice the big pool of coolant that was dumped overnight.
Ino my garage I had a spare old original S Series radiator in need of a re-core which I took along to Dixons Radiators in Denton, nr. Manchester. A proper irrepressible old-skool specialist in his 80's, he immediately recognised the radiator as a Leyland variant; but with a core he wasn't sure of. It would be expensive because he had no stock of the special core and would have to order it in from his supplier.
4 days later, he rang me to say it was ready to collect.The bill? Better sit down... . £240.00!
Super job, like a new one All fitted and doing sterling service ever since.
My view? Aluminium radiators are great for smooth race circuits and the like, but for our modern rough potholed roads, original is far more compliant and durable
Edited by glenrobbo on Tuesday 22 May 22:35
kevroe said:
Just got to get the bonnet off over the weekend.
That should not be necessary just to remove the radiator.
Park front wheels on something couple of inches thick or jack up slightly so that bonnet opens up nicely, protecting nose with a bit of carpet or something if required.
Disconnect 2 hoses, remove top 2 securing brackets and wriggle it out should be all that is needed.
HTH,
Carl.
i have had both. I think the aluminium one is much better than my old s2 rad but there was significant fettling to get it to fit without stressing in use.
I suspect those that failed early may have suffered from being installed without the room for movement it needs.
Having said that my V8 had its OE rad recored and thats developed a corner weep when cold. Its going back to be redone.
I suspect those that failed early may have suffered from being installed without the room for movement it needs.
Having said that my V8 had its OE rad recored and thats developed a corner weep when cold. Its going back to be redone.
Pics on mine (ali rad, S3) HERE.
Fettling to fit is trivial (see pics and notes). Rad is still in rubber mounts and not mechanically stressed. It's still a worry that the paper-thin fins are vulnerable to damage by this cack-handed mechanic; the old rad is still in the attic, ready for recoring when there's a problem.
Fettling to fit is trivial (see pics and notes). Rad is still in rubber mounts and not mechanically stressed. It's still a worry that the paper-thin fins are vulnerable to damage by this cack-handed mechanic; the old rad is still in the attic, ready for recoring when there's a problem.
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