Clutch master cylinder bleeding issue S3c

[Jimb3091]

Hi all, so my master cylinder went on me, I brought a new one and fitted it, and when doing the bleeding process nothing seems to be happening.

The pin is connected properly to the clutch pedal, I've filled the cylinder with new fluid however when I'm doing the old clutch down/up process whilst my friend is under the car with a bleeding kit sorting the bolt out etc, there's no movement regarding the fluids. Is there a secret pressure valve that I'm not aware off?

Has anyone had this problem before?

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks
James

[GreenV8S]

The port to the fluid reservoir only opens at the very last part of the travel on the m/c. I've seen brake master cylinders with the pushrod adjusted too tight so that the port never opens. Is it possible you've done something similar on the clutch?

[WotnoV8]

Might be worth checking that the bleed nipple is not blocked with crud. (Might need to remove it and blow it through to be sure?).

[mentall]

New bleed nipple, and copper grease on the thread (enough to stop air sucking back in through the thread). Did it for me!

[phillpot]

Jimb3091 said:

Is there a secret pressure valve that I'm not aware off?

No.

Send your friend home and get one of these................



Take the pipe off the master cylinder, does fluid piss out (from the m/c not the pipe) ? It should do even without touching the pedal.

[Maffe]

I have always, thx to my father, done the "reverse bleading" using a big syringe and a hose connected to the blead nipple. Pushing the fluid up until no more bubbles and it´s done

[ukflyboy]

Go with the Ezybleed in Philpott's post, definitely worth the investment.

[GreenV8S]

Maffe said:

I have always, thx to my father, done the "reverse bleading" using a big syringe and a hose connected to the blead nipple. Pushing the fluid up until no more bubbles and it´s done

I think that's a good approach, but you need to be very careful that the bleed nipple is clean before you start, because any dirt in there is going to be push into the slave.

[greymrj]

one small thing to add to the advice. Make sure the clutch pipe goes into the bottom of the slave, and the bleed valve is at the top. It wouldn't be the first time they have been the wrong way up. If the slave piston is right in it can be reluctant to take in fluid, make sure the clutch arm is as far forward as it will go and wedge it there.

[markbigears]

How old is the slave cylinder? When I changed my master, the Slavs was on its last legs too. It might be seized solid.

[MisterTee]

ukflyboy said:

Go with the Ezybleed in Philpott's post, definitely worth the investment.

I second that having changed my slave cylinder last year and investing in one of these - bled in no time!

[Jimb3091]

It's a brand new master cylinder.

Just ordered the eezibleed kit it shall be ariving today.

How do I use it and do I still need to get to the part underneath my car? Or can I just do it all from the engine bay?

[MisterTee]

The instructions are included and are very simple. The system uses air pressure from one of your wheels (just be careful not to have too much pressure in the system though) with a screw cap on top of your clutch reservoir. Yes, you will still need to access the slave cylinder bleed nipple, but one set up and the system pressurised, just open up the bleed nipple valve and the air/fluid should flow freely.

Remember to keep an eye on the fluid in the reservoir though, as you don’t want it to run low and draw more air into the system.

Good luck!

[WotnoV8]

As above..
Just make sure the cap is a tight fit on the master cylinder and you don’t use too high an air pressure

Edited by WotnoV8 on Wednesday 25th April 06:52

[Jimb3091]

Ok thank you all! Hopefully it works really want to take it too the next TVR event this coming Saturday. So fingers crossed lol

[mentall]

WotnoV8 said:

Just make sure the cap is a tight fit on the master cylinder and you don’t use too high an air pressure

Ask me how I know.......!

I prefer one of these.

[glenrobbo]

WotnoV8 said:

As above..
Just make sure the cap is a tight fit on the master cylinder and you don’t use too high an air pressure

I use an old spare wheel for the Eezibleed pressure supply, deflated to about 15 psi, which is adequate.
Make sure the supply bottle has plenty of fresh brake fluid in it, and that the caps are tight on your master cylinder reservoir and the bottle.

Put plenty of old rags around the area in case of spillages. And don't connect up the pipe to the tyre Schrader valve until everything else is securely connected.

Also use only fresh brake fluid from a new bottle that hasn't sat around unsealed for months. It absorbs moisture from the air.

Good luck!

[phillpot]

glenrobbo said:

use only fresh brake fluid from a new bottle that hasn't sat around unsealed for months. It absorbs moisture from the air.

It'll be good enough for a clutch ....

[Jimb3091]

Thanks guys for the advice however the problem is the slave cylinder. Has anyone had to replace one before? Any help would be very much appreciated as at this point I will be selling the car because I'm no mechanic and I haven't got hundreds of pounds lying around lol

James

[MisterTee]

I replaced mine last year and I am no mechanic by any means. It wasn’t expensive or particularly difficult - but it is easier if you can get the car at a decent working height as it does involve crawling around underneath to access it.

Don’t give up on it for the sake of a slave cylinder ....