S3 bonnet alignment

[tileart]

As it looks like it’s going to rain for the next 40 days and 40 nights, I am contemplating doing a comprehensive adjustment of my S3 bonnet as it annoys me, it looks out of alignment laterally. In an old post, Gerald-TVR helpfully showed his very nice bonnet fixing and I reckon that following his instructions, I can do it by loosening everything off at the pivots and moving them a few degrees both side-to-side and up-and-down, and also adjusting the retaining catches. I’m hoping it’s no more difficult than it was on my old 3000S, which also had to be made to fit at the bulkhead end of the bonnet. But what do you reckon, is this within the usual parameters for an S bonnet fit ? (the flash makes it look a bit worse than in daylight).

[v8s4me]

Some fit better than others, that's just the way it is. You can spend an awfully long time fiddling about for very little improvement. However, as there's sd all else to do in this weather it's a good way to while away the time and you might get the improvement your efforts deserve.

I'd start by swapping the hinges around so that the tube which supports the rod with the rose-joint is on the inside of the bonnet stiffening web (radiator side). If you have room to do this it will mean that the bolts which hold the hinge to the chassis have a shorter unsupported length.

tileart said:

Have fun

[tileart]

Thanks, I shall proceed with care. I see what you mean about swapping-over the tube. Here’s a rather fuzzy pic of my driver’s-side fixing point, it’s hard to photograph in there and it all needs a good clean (it looks a bit like Gerald-TVR’s, but to mis-quote Neil Diamond, “…except for the mud and a few other changes, the fixing is the same”). However I’m a bit concerned that I also seem to have a rhomboid shape (squashed square) chassis tube at the fixing point. This may be the result of the original build whereby the lads at Bristol Avenue were using some heavy-handed adjustment, or a later fix, but maybe I should just live with that. What I want to avoid at all costs is to do like Father Ted, https://youtu.be/8mdwAkWvWMw

[GreenV8S]

tileart said:

I also seem to have a rhomboid shape (squashed square) chassis tube at the fixing point.

That's a bad sign and may indicate that the fixing tubes have been weakened by corrosion. You can probably guess how that ends up if you don't fix it. The bonnet mounts are fully adjustable, and nobody in their right mind would adjust the bonnet by bending the tubes.

[tileart]

The big clean-up starts tomorrow. Once done, and that means taking time out to nibble the ears of a (chocolate) bunny, I'll take some more pics and decide the best course of action.

[v8s4me]

tileart said:

I also seem to have a rhomboid shape (squashed square) chassis tube at the fixing point.

It may have had a dink at some time in the past which wouldn't help the alignment much. If you're careful you might be able to ease that back into shape with a trolley jack. It's not a bad idea to support the front of the bonnet (in the middle under the air intake) while you're slackening off all the adjustment bolts.

[tileart]

...and here's an obvious source of likely lateral problems. I seem to have no nuts ! (Oh yes Ha Ha etc etc), but clearly the rather odd and unthreaded pivot bolt in my hinge does not have a retaining/lock nut at the point where it is shown on Gerald-TVR's, hence allowing some lateral movement. I sense a purchase of nice shiny stainless bolts, nuts and washers and new rose joints coming on.

[Steve_D]

Get everything cleaned and lubricated first.
Before you start alignment remove both the striker pins and springs then you can open and shut the bonnet easily and the pins wont influence the alignment.
Once you have it aligned re-fit the pins but hold the bonnet release lever back with cable ties which will make it easier to align the pins.

You will not believe how long this is going to take you and how dissatisfied you will still be with the result.

Steve

[v8s4me]

tileart said:

... I sense a purchase of nice shiny stainless bolts, nuts and washers and new rose joints coming on...

Be careful about which grade of stainless you go for. If it is too brittle the bolt can snap leaving your bonnet to flap around. It might no be so pretty but mild steel might be a better option because it will flex a bit and not snap.

[tileart]

Steve_D said:

You will not believe how long this is going to take you and how dissatisfied you will still be with the result.

....hmmmm, suitably forewarned I suppose. Still today I feel quite a bit better about panel fits generally, having seen a £262,000 E-Type (yes two-hundred-and-sixty-two K) for sale locally which had, as you would expect, been lovingly restored, but the panel fits around the bonnet/doors/scuttle still aren't PERFECT....