making life easier for an old fart..
Discussion
Having reached my biblical allotted span, arthritis in my shoulders is making my S increasingly painful to drive. Before I give up and sell it I want to investigate what modifications might be possible.
It is difficult to reach back for the gear lever. Has anyone come up with a mod to bring it significantly further forward?
I have read a number of the threads on fitting power assisted steering. I don’t think I would trust the electrical version and would prefer old fashioned hydraulic PAS. (Electric seems a bit like fly by wire, and when the plane I’m on is heading towards the ground I want the pilot with both feet on the instrument panel hauling back on the stick. Not desperately pressing a small button marked reset).
There are a number of threads where people have successfully fitted PAS. Those that I have read on the S site don't seem to give a mechanical novice like me quite enough detail but there are also some on the Chimaera site which go into greater depth. My question is whether the geometry and dimensions of the S steering set up are identical to the Chimaera, in which case I could just copy what they have done.
As far as I can see the only thing that would have to match exactly between the old and new rack would be the distance between the knuckle joints (is that the correct description?), though it would be helpful to have the pinion in approx the same position to save on cutting and welding of the chassis tubes..
I have seen references to using a Subaru PAS rack, Does anyone know of any other rack with the correct dimensions?..
Any thoughts gratefully received.
It is difficult to reach back for the gear lever. Has anyone come up with a mod to bring it significantly further forward?
I have read a number of the threads on fitting power assisted steering. I don’t think I would trust the electrical version and would prefer old fashioned hydraulic PAS. (Electric seems a bit like fly by wire, and when the plane I’m on is heading towards the ground I want the pilot with both feet on the instrument panel hauling back on the stick. Not desperately pressing a small button marked reset).
There are a number of threads where people have successfully fitted PAS. Those that I have read on the S site don't seem to give a mechanical novice like me quite enough detail but there are also some on the Chimaera site which go into greater depth. My question is whether the geometry and dimensions of the S steering set up are identical to the Chimaera, in which case I could just copy what they have done.
As far as I can see the only thing that would have to match exactly between the old and new rack would be the distance between the knuckle joints (is that the correct description?), though it would be helpful to have the pinion in approx the same position to save on cutting and welding of the chassis tubes..
I have seen references to using a Subaru PAS rack, Does anyone know of any other rack with the correct dimensions?..
Any thoughts gratefully received.
The rack and set up is different on the Chimp/Grief.
You could fit an electric hydraulic system but you would need to source the hydraulic version of the S rack. Would be the simplest install.
As for the gear lever. You could shorten the tailhousing moving thus removing the crude TVR 'bent' solid linkage. This would not move the position of the lever in the cabin but would shorten the throw. Alternatively, you could fit a proper linkage which, again, would shorten the throw.
Another option would be to fit an auto box.
You could fit an electric hydraulic system but you would need to source the hydraulic version of the S rack. Would be the simplest install.
As for the gear lever. You could shorten the tailhousing moving thus removing the crude TVR 'bent' solid linkage. This would not move the position of the lever in the cabin but would shorten the throw. Alternatively, you could fit a proper linkage which, again, would shorten the throw.
Another option would be to fit an auto box.
mk1fan said:
The rack and set up is different on the Chimp/Grief.
You could fit an electric hydraulic system but you would need to source the hydraulic version of the S rack. Would be the simplest install.
As for the gear lever. You could shorten the tailhousing moving thus removing the crude TVR 'bent' solid linkage. This would not move the position of the lever in the cabin but would shorten the throw. Alternatively, you could fit a proper linkage which, again, would shorten the throw.
Another option would be to fit an auto box.
Thanks for the suggestions but I have not been able to find any references to a hydraulic version of the S rack (much appreciated if someone can point me in the right direction) and I really need to bring the whole gear lever further forward as it is reaching back that is uncomfortable.You could fit an electric hydraulic system but you would need to source the hydraulic version of the S rack. Would be the simplest install.
As for the gear lever. You could shorten the tailhousing moving thus removing the crude TVR 'bent' solid linkage. This would not move the position of the lever in the cabin but would shorten the throw. Alternatively, you could fit a proper linkage which, again, would shorten the throw.
Another option would be to fit an auto box.
I am a bit reluctant to fit an autobox. but will keep it as a last resort option.
Thanks.
I seems to remember Joolz (JooSpeed) mentioning an electric PAS option - if I understood correctly, it added an electric drive to the column and left the rack as standard. I think that approach has been used on other TVR models too. Joolz would also be a good person to talk to about auto box options. Are you V6 or V8?
Not sure there is much room to move it further forward. Physically, the tailhouse can't be shortened much more than to directly under where the gear knob is at the moment. Shortening it to this position would drastically shorten the throw - you can also add a short throw kit to this which would also help. This sort of mod needs the gearbox taking out so is fairly involved. It is a common mod on the type 9 gearbox for fitting them into MGs or Scimitars. Google 'type 9 gearbox mod Scimitar' and you should get a link to how to guides.
The same would be acheived by fitting a proper linkage as opposed to the bent, solid bar that TVR came up with. This maybe possible by removing the centre console (assuming it is an S3, S4 or V8S) and enlarging the hole over the gear box. A few on here have done remote linkages using threaded bar, brackets and rose joints. They have utilised pre-existing mounting holes on the gearbox. Again a short throw kit could be added and would work.
Both these solutions reduce the throw of the gear lever, thus it won't be as far back in 2nd and 4th or as far away in 1st, 3rd and 5th.
Now, if there is space in the cabin to move the lever further forward then the answer may well be a proper linkage as these can be any length and just locate it where is comfortable.
I don't think you realise that the, very long, throw of the gearlever is caused by the simple linkage TVR used and the gearbox connection is actually about 150mm further back than where the gear knob is. This linkage means the distance you have to move the gear lever is massive - just compare it to that of the Sierra. Before someone posts it up, I don't think Southways replacement gear linkage is a suitable alternative - although it certainly works.
Is the lever to far back when it is in neutral? If it is, then I don't think you'll be able to move it far enough forward and an auto box is you answer.
The same would be acheived by fitting a proper linkage as opposed to the bent, solid bar that TVR came up with. This maybe possible by removing the centre console (assuming it is an S3, S4 or V8S) and enlarging the hole over the gear box. A few on here have done remote linkages using threaded bar, brackets and rose joints. They have utilised pre-existing mounting holes on the gearbox. Again a short throw kit could be added and would work.
Both these solutions reduce the throw of the gear lever, thus it won't be as far back in 2nd and 4th or as far away in 1st, 3rd and 5th.
Now, if there is space in the cabin to move the lever further forward then the answer may well be a proper linkage as these can be any length and just locate it where is comfortable.
I don't think you realise that the, very long, throw of the gearlever is caused by the simple linkage TVR used and the gearbox connection is actually about 150mm further back than where the gear knob is. This linkage means the distance you have to move the gear lever is massive - just compare it to that of the Sierra. Before someone posts it up, I don't think Southways replacement gear linkage is a suitable alternative - although it certainly works.
Is the lever to far back when it is in neutral? If it is, then I don't think you'll be able to move it far enough forward and an auto box is you answer.
pequod said:
Would an auto box fit the standard chassis configuration?
I've never heard of an S with one and not sure they were a factory option?
Anybody on here have one, got to be very rare?
Bluntly, TVR would have done anything for a paying customer. Even make 'new' versions of discontinued models. Plenty of other models have had them from the factory and retro fitted. It is only a steel chassis. Modding it would be simple for any competent fabricator but I doubt there would be much involved in it. Then its just a case of wiring and a propshaft.I've never heard of an S with one and not sure they were a factory option?
Anybody on here have one, got to be very rare?
Did GeraldTVR not look into that before he sold his S Series? A few years back now but I suspect electric power steering will be the most viable answer.
Regarding gear lever, is there enough room to have it further forward? Simplest (if rather heath robinson) solution would be to cut the shift lever down and weld a short extension bar to the top going forwards with the remains of the shift lever at the other end. Probably only needs to be 2 or 3 inches although it might interfere with the radio.
Regarding gear lever, is there enough room to have it further forward? Simplest (if rather heath robinson) solution would be to cut the shift lever down and weld a short extension bar to the top going forwards with the remains of the shift lever at the other end. Probably only needs to be 2 or 3 inches although it might interfere with the radio.
mk1fan said:
Bluntly, TVR would have done anything for a paying customer. Even make 'new' versions of discontinued models. Plenty of other models have had them from the factory and retro fitted. It is only a steel chassis. Modding it would be simple for any competent fabricator but I doubt there would be much involved in it. Then its just a case of wiring and a propshaft.
So do you know of one then? I realise that TVR would make whatever a paying customer wanted, but was there ever an auto version of the S series built?Why not give Kiley Clinton a call? They can probably tell you straight away what can be done and what parts you need.
A chap called Chris Bark, who has now sold his V8S but still loiters here occasionally, fitted a Chimaera power rack to his car I believe. I'd guess using an electric driven hydraulic pump although there may still be room to fit engine driven pump even with the forward exhaust manifolds?
Therefore, in theory, if a Chim rack fits an S and a Subaru rack will fit a Chim shouldn't a Subaru rack fit an S ?
Gearbox wise how about the shortened tailhousing and retain the cranked gearlever? Might take a bit of jiggling to avoid, as mentioned, smacking the radio when going for first / third / fifth.
I guess there is a way but would the "push down for reverse" be a problem with any kind of clever dicky rose jointed linkage?
Pretty obviously any solution is not going to be cheap unless you're hands on with all the appropriate facilities at your disposal? Have you thought of down grading to a Chimaera or Griffith, come with power steering and a very different driving position
Therefore, in theory, if a Chim rack fits an S and a Subaru rack will fit a Chim shouldn't a Subaru rack fit an S ?
Gearbox wise how about the shortened tailhousing and retain the cranked gearlever? Might take a bit of jiggling to avoid, as mentioned, smacking the radio when going for first / third / fifth.
I guess there is a way but would the "push down for reverse" be a problem with any kind of clever dicky rose jointed linkage?
Pretty obviously any solution is not going to be cheap unless you're hands on with all the appropriate facilities at your disposal? Have you thought of down grading to a Chimaera or Griffith, come with power steering and a very different driving position
mk1fan said:
Not sure there is much room to move it further forward. Physically, the tailhouse can't be shortened much more than to directly under where the gear knob is at the moment. Shortening it to this position would drastically shorten the throw - you can also add a short throw kit to this which would also help. This sort of mod needs the gearbox taking out so is fairly involved. It is a common mod on the type 9 gearbox for fitting them into MGs or Scimitars. Google 'type 9 gearbox mod Scimitar' and you should get a link to how to guides.
The same would be acheived by fitting a proper linkage as opposed to the bent, solid bar that TVR came up with. This maybe possible by removing the centre console (assuming it is an S3, S4 or V8S) and enlarging the hole over the gear box. A few on here have done remote linkages using threaded bar, brackets and rose joints. They have utilised pre-existing mounting holes on the gearbox. Again a short throw kit could be added and would work.
Both these solutions reduce the throw of the gear lever, thus it won't be as far back in 2nd and 4th or as far away in 1st, 3rd and 5th.
Now, if there is space in the cabin to move the lever further forward then the answer may well be a proper linkage as these can be any length and just locate it where is comfortable.
.
Is the lever to far back when it is in neutral? If it is, then I don't think you'll be able to move it far enough forward and an auto box is you answer.
I need the centre line of the gear lever to go forward about 2" as it is still too far back in neutral (i'v just been out in the garage with a tape measure - there is a whole choir of brass monkeys out there, all singing falsetto - the throw from 1st to 2nd is about 5 inches and in 1st there is about 3 1/2 inches between the radio and the gear knob (because the lever dips down as it goes forward). My car is an S2 with the curved dash. a proper linkage would probably do the trick. Do you know of one that would fit the gearbox?The same would be acheived by fitting a proper linkage as opposed to the bent, solid bar that TVR came up with. This maybe possible by removing the centre console (assuming it is an S3, S4 or V8S) and enlarging the hole over the gear box. A few on here have done remote linkages using threaded bar, brackets and rose joints. They have utilised pre-existing mounting holes on the gearbox. Again a short throw kit could be added and would work.
Both these solutions reduce the throw of the gear lever, thus it won't be as far back in 2nd and 4th or as far away in 1st, 3rd and 5th.
Now, if there is space in the cabin to move the lever further forward then the answer may well be a proper linkage as these can be any length and just locate it where is comfortable.
.
Is the lever to far back when it is in neutral? If it is, then I don't think you'll be able to move it far enough forward and an auto box is you answer.
v8s4me said:
Why not give Kiley Clinton a call? They can probably tell you straight away what can be done and what parts you need.
Thanks for the contact details. I'll give them a call tomorrow.
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