'91 S3 wheel alignment settings.
Discussion
Morning all, I am looking to find the tracking and wheel alignment settings for my S3. Went to the local wheel alignment shop and they did not have them in their computer.
They "best guessed" it twice and it still doesn't feel right and the steering wheel was not straight, either left hand down the first time then right hand down the second.
Any help would be appreciated so I don't chew through my tyres. Cheers!
They "best guessed" it twice and it still doesn't feel right and the steering wheel was not straight, either left hand down the first time then right hand down the second.
Any help would be appreciated so I don't chew through my tyres. Cheers!
Do you know what they have set it at?
There are some figures at the end of this..... clicky, although the mm then degrees in brackets is a little odd as the only value given is in brackets?
Would be interesting to hear from anyone who has had the "full geo" what their car was set at?
Good basic starting point would be a touch of toe-in and a smidge of negative camber
If you click on "Useful Links" > Parts List and scroll down, you will find this:
Lots of good info on this forum.
Also look for the FAQs tab, it's easily missed.
A quick look shows up this 2001 dated post by Petrol Ted, the founder of PH
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Lots of good info on this forum.
Also look for the FAQs tab, it's easily missed.
A quick look shows up this 2001 dated post by Petrol Ted, the founder of PH
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Edited by glenrobbo on Sunday 13th August 22:38
Hi all,
Bringing up an old thread to get some input to my data on wheel alignment.
The cars is an 1990 S3C. She runs on 18" (yes I know, came with them from last owner). Last year I fitted new brakes, new bushings, new shocks, changed gearing (4,27) and all the engine/gearbox mounts. Need to get the chassis right before more power.
I think the wheel alignment came out pretty ok. The rear axle is not really adjustable without some effort as it involves shims. Mine was a little off to the right so he compensated the front end a little to the left, hence the slightly uneven numbers. Is that common practice?
They are very experienced and also do race cars and I don’t really know enough of chassis setup to form a view, just have to test on the road. The guy also said that “standard” recommended toe in was high and said that lower toe gave easier steering into corners.
Since the fan belt almost split the coolant hose from the swirlpot to the thermostat on the way there I have not had a chance to test. I have ordered a new hose and hope to test next week.
Anyway, here goes.
Camber rear left: -1,54 degrees
Camber rear left: -1,08 degrees
Single toe in rear left: +0,13 degrees
Single toe in rear right: +0,16 degrees
Total toe rear: +0,19 degrees
Camber front right: -1,09 degrees
Camber front left: -0,58 degrees
Single toe front left: +0,12 degrees
Single toe front right: -0,03 degrees
Total toe front +0,09 degrees
Does these numbers make sence?
Kind regards
//Rob
Bringing up an old thread to get some input to my data on wheel alignment.
The cars is an 1990 S3C. She runs on 18" (yes I know, came with them from last owner). Last year I fitted new brakes, new bushings, new shocks, changed gearing (4,27) and all the engine/gearbox mounts. Need to get the chassis right before more power.
I think the wheel alignment came out pretty ok. The rear axle is not really adjustable without some effort as it involves shims. Mine was a little off to the right so he compensated the front end a little to the left, hence the slightly uneven numbers. Is that common practice?
They are very experienced and also do race cars and I don’t really know enough of chassis setup to form a view, just have to test on the road. The guy also said that “standard” recommended toe in was high and said that lower toe gave easier steering into corners.
Since the fan belt almost split the coolant hose from the swirlpot to the thermostat on the way there I have not had a chance to test. I have ordered a new hose and hope to test next week.
Anyway, here goes.
Camber rear left: -1,54 degrees
Camber rear left: -1,08 degrees
Single toe in rear left: +0,13 degrees
Single toe in rear right: +0,16 degrees
Total toe rear: +0,19 degrees
Camber front right: -1,09 degrees
Camber front left: -0,58 degrees
Single toe front left: +0,12 degrees
Single toe front right: -0,03 degrees
Total toe front +0,09 degrees
Does these numbers make sence?
Kind regards
//Rob
The explanation about why you were given asymmetrical settings smells like BS to me, but they aren't far enough out for anyone to care. The settings are plausible for a road car but I don't know whether they are right for you.
What have you set the ride heights to front/rear? This has a huge effect on handling and also alters the geometry, so you need to get this right before doing the geometry. Also, what is the car going to be used for? Your mention of changing the gearing and looking for more power makes me suspect it may be used for more than just gentle pootling about, and those are 'pootling' settings.
ETA: Shimming the rear hubs is slightly harder on an S than on a race car with fully adjustable suspension, but only involves loosening a couple of screws so that you can insert a shim - it's pretty quick in the scheme of things.
What have you set the ride heights to front/rear? This has a huge effect on handling and also alters the geometry, so you need to get this right before doing the geometry. Also, what is the car going to be used for? Your mention of changing the gearing and looking for more power makes me suspect it may be used for more than just gentle pootling about, and those are 'pootling' settings.
ETA: Shimming the rear hubs is slightly harder on an S than on a race car with fully adjustable suspension, but only involves loosening a couple of screws so that you can insert a shim - it's pretty quick in the scheme of things.
Edited by GreenV8S on Wednesday 9th May 12:11
Hi,
Thank you for the reply.
You may be right on the BS. I have not had the chance to test yet as the water hose broke and the new one is not here yet.
We did a very nice 320km drive last Sunday with my Prancing Horse buddies and that worked just fine even before the wheel alignment. I can rather easy keep up with the older cars but the 430’s and newer models is in a different league. A friend brought his 488 and that is just a Starship and I just can’t find the Hyperdrive on the S…
I do chase her a bit so maybe some more Camber would be good but I do want here to steer in to corners rather direct.
Not sure the chassis can take more power. The V8S has a better chassis and a bit wider stance so that is probably fine. Mine has the wider stance in the rear now but not sure about more power in mine. I do have a blower ready to go back but am hesitating. She was blown for about 10 years and it worked fine but not really fun at speed. No she has a low gearing so top speed is gone but that also gives better acceleration without the blower.
All input on your choice of settings are very welcome as I’m still learning.
I will revert with some feedback after road testing next week.
Kind regards
//Rob
Thank you for the reply.
You may be right on the BS. I have not had the chance to test yet as the water hose broke and the new one is not here yet.
We did a very nice 320km drive last Sunday with my Prancing Horse buddies and that worked just fine even before the wheel alignment. I can rather easy keep up with the older cars but the 430’s and newer models is in a different league. A friend brought his 488 and that is just a Starship and I just can’t find the Hyperdrive on the S…
I do chase her a bit so maybe some more Camber would be good but I do want here to steer in to corners rather direct.
Not sure the chassis can take more power. The V8S has a better chassis and a bit wider stance so that is probably fine. Mine has the wider stance in the rear now but not sure about more power in mine. I do have a blower ready to go back but am hesitating. She was blown for about 10 years and it worked fine but not really fun at speed. No she has a low gearing so top speed is gone but that also gives better acceleration without the blower.
All input on your choice of settings are very welcome as I’m still learning.
I will revert with some feedback after road testing next week.
Kind regards
//Rob
I assume the decimal values you're quoting are degrees and seconds rather than degrees and hundredths, but the way it's written is slightly ambiguous.
The more power you have the more it'll show up limitations in the handling, transmission and brakes - but the chassis itself is capable of coping with quite a lot more power than standard. I'm not exactly following my own advice here, but if you're going to spend thousands or tens of thousands of pounds making it faster, you do have to ask yourself whether this is the car you want to spend that time and money on. In general it's more cost effective to buy a car that is faster as standard, or a car that somebody else has sunk the time and money on upgrading, rather than DIY. But if you want to do it, the chassis isn't the limiting factor.
The more power you have the more it'll show up limitations in the handling, transmission and brakes - but the chassis itself is capable of coping with quite a lot more power than standard. I'm not exactly following my own advice here, but if you're going to spend thousands or tens of thousands of pounds making it faster, you do have to ask yourself whether this is the car you want to spend that time and money on. In general it's more cost effective to buy a car that is faster as standard, or a car that somebody else has sunk the time and money on upgrading, rather than DIY. But if you want to do it, the chassis isn't the limiting factor.
sebackman said:
Hi all,
Bringing up an old thread to get some input to my data on wheel alignment.
The cars is an 1990 S3C. She runs on 18" (yes I know, came with them from last owner). Last year I fitted new brakes, new bushings, new shocks, changed gearing (4,27) and all the engine/gearbox mounts. Need to get the chassis right before more power.
I think the wheel alignment came out pretty ok. The rear axle is not really adjustable without some effort as it involves shims. Mine was a little off to the right so he compensated the front end a little to the left, hence the slightly uneven numbers. Is that common practice?
They are very experienced and also do race cars and I don’t really know enough of chassis setup to form a view, just have to test on the road. The guy also said that “standard” recommended toe in was high and said that lower toe gave easier steering into corners.
Since the fan belt almost split the coolant hose from the swirlpot to the thermostat on the way there I have not had a chance to test. I have ordered a new hose and hope to test next week.
Anyway, here goes.
Camber rear left: -1,54 degrees
Camber rear left: -1,08 degrees
Single toe in rear left: +0,13 degrees
Single toe in rear right: +0,16 degrees
Total toe rear: +0,19 degrees
Camber front right: -1,09 degrees
Camber front left: -0,58 degrees
Single toe front left: +0,12 degrees
Single toe front right: -0,03 degrees
Total toe front +0,09 degrees
Does these numbers make sence?
Kind regards
//Rob
that looks reasonable precise enough.Bringing up an old thread to get some input to my data on wheel alignment.
The cars is an 1990 S3C. She runs on 18" (yes I know, came with them from last owner). Last year I fitted new brakes, new bushings, new shocks, changed gearing (4,27) and all the engine/gearbox mounts. Need to get the chassis right before more power.
I think the wheel alignment came out pretty ok. The rear axle is not really adjustable without some effort as it involves shims. Mine was a little off to the right so he compensated the front end a little to the left, hence the slightly uneven numbers. Is that common practice?
They are very experienced and also do race cars and I don’t really know enough of chassis setup to form a view, just have to test on the road. The guy also said that “standard” recommended toe in was high and said that lower toe gave easier steering into corners.
Since the fan belt almost split the coolant hose from the swirlpot to the thermostat on the way there I have not had a chance to test. I have ordered a new hose and hope to test next week.
Anyway, here goes.
Camber rear left: -1,54 degrees
Camber rear left: -1,08 degrees
Single toe in rear left: +0,13 degrees
Single toe in rear right: +0,16 degrees
Total toe rear: +0,19 degrees
Camber front right: -1,09 degrees
Camber front left: -0,58 degrees
Single toe front left: +0,12 degrees
Single toe front right: -0,03 degrees
Total toe front +0,09 degrees
Does these numbers make sence?
Kind regards
//Rob
most important is the toe.
if camber settngs are 0,5-1 degree out of spec or dffertn from L to R its not so critical like when toe is not well set.
gerneral rule of thumb for a rear wheel driven car is:
front TOE:0
front camber: -0,5
for an IRS car:
rear toe:0,5 toe-in
rear camber -0,5
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