A bit rattled

[tav]

Hello again

Another worrying noise has now started on the S. It has for as long as I can remember made a ‘ting’ kind of noise when taking up the drive if going from a forward to reverse gear. But now I’m getting a metallic rattling noise when driving (particularly accelerating). My thoughts were that it could be a cv or uj joint. Having jacked the car up and looked at all the joint I can see no undue wear.

I therefore started examining the car using the old screwdriver / stethoscope method to try to find the location of the ting/rattle noise while moving the wheels backwards and forwards by hand. The noise definitely comes from the propshaft area and probably the end near the differential, but I still cannot detect any play in the uj.

I am obviously worried that it could be something inside the diff which is maybe being transmitted through the prop. Is this likely given that I’m getting a metallic rattling noise (sounds as if it were a small plate of metal held loosely with bolts) I always thought the diff would clunk if it was knackered.

Any thoughts?

[shpub]

Just replaced the UJs on the 520 due to a vibration but couldn't feel any play. On inspection the yokes were worn but the play was only under stress which I couldn't simulate.

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

[JSG]

Sounds like the diff mounting bolts are loose to me, should be fairly easy to sort out.

Brgds,
JSG.

[tav]

Thinking about the mounting bolts - If you are under the car moving the road wheel back and forwards with your hand should you be able to see the diff move up and down slightly as you change direction. Mine moves probably 3 or 4mm, does this suggest the mounting bolts? (I presume it moves a hell of a lot more under the power of the engine)

Cheers

[Paceracing]

A metallic 'ting', and metallic vibration sounds like the exhaust. Check the welds on the silencer, also check the gearbox and engine mounts are okay. It does rather seem as if something is touching the exhaust when you move.

Jas.

[Dave_H]

quote:
Sounds like the diff mounting bolts are loose to me, should be fairly easy to sort out.

Brgds,
JSG.

Didn't someone mention also about replacing a diff bush(es)? in a previous thread?

[tav]

Thanks for the suggestions - I'll have another look tonight. I'm thinking it maybe a combination of slightly loose mountings causing the diff/prop to hit the exhaust, as that certainly fits the symptoms and sounds.

cheers

[tav]

Hello again,

Still not managed to track down the source of this noise. Spent hours under the car trying to tighten everything that there is but have found nothing loose. There appears to be nothing anywhere near the exhaust to cause the noise either. Having driven it a bit more now, the noise is sometimes there and sometimes not, but more often than not it starts as I let the clutch out and then continues as the car moves.

I am thinking maybe it is the release bearing on the clutch. The clutch still feels OK though so how likely is this?

[JSG]

Tav,

If it's the release (thrust) bearing the noise should be there when stationary and disappear when you put press the clutch pedal.

[tav]

JSG

Thinking about it, I suppose you are right. Cant see what else it is though.

Might be time to call in the experts and take it to tower view. Hopefully somebody who has looked at a lot of these cars would be able to spot something wrong - I suppose it still could be one of the uj / cv joints but I cannot see any play at all when tested by hand.

Thanks anyway for all the responses

[chin up]

A mate with a 911 had a similar thing....basically his clutch was on the way out because one of the springs in the friction plate had popped out of place and was beginning to mangle everything. Trouble was, he'd just had a new clutch put in! (Got it sorted under warranty, though).

Don't want to sound alarmist, mate, but noises like this tend not to go away on their own. If I were you I'd get a decent specialist to have a drive/have a listen and see what he comes up with.

All the best with it, just think how nice it'll be to have it sorted and not having to worry about it.

Good luck.

[heliox]

quote:

Another worrying noise has now started on the S. It has for as long as I can remember made a ‘ting’ kind of noise when taking up the drive if going from a forward to reverse gear. But now I’m getting a metallic rattling noise when driving (particularly accelerating).

it could be the exhaust mounting rubbers have perished allowing excessive play

[Podie]

Before you start worrying about the clutch release bearing too much - many Ford's make the noise I bleieve you are talking about. It sounds a bit worrying on a new car... but having owned a couple of new Ford's (and know colleagues who are in a similar position) it's basically a characteristic of the cars...! .. but might be worth getting it checked out anyhow.

[tav]

Brought the car into work today so that I could see how the noise is doing. What noise? not a sound today, can you believe it?

Cant take it along somewhere and ask them to listen to a noise which used to be there. Grrrrrrrrrrr..........

Maybe whatever it was has fallen off. Must check all the wheels are there tonight.

[tav]

An update and a question.

Have now determined that it is the front UJ on the propshaft that is the source of the noise. continued driving it until it got bad enough to be able to detect!!

So next job is replacing. The bible says to do in pairs, so I will do both while I'm at it. Does anybody know the part number for them or what to ask for in a unipart / partco type place?


and finally does the prop really need to be balanced or will I get away with just doing it all DIY?

[johno]

Tav,

Make sure you buy GKN Hardy Spicer UJ's, as these are the only ones that have a grease niple which you can keep them regularly lubricated. They are the only ones that have these.

I did mine with help from a friend and they are a bugger to do.

Exhaust off.

Undo diff to allow it to be supported on trolley jack to maniplualte it so you can get the prop shaft out.

Replacing UJ's on the bench. Make sure you do not bend any needle rollers. This is after the nightmare of trying to get the old ones out ...

Then reassemble.

The friend I did it with is a very competent home mechanic like myself. Has had TVR's for 13yrs...We took 8 hrs to do this job and only stopped to watch the GP over lunch. So 6 hrs work !

It probably wouldn't take so long now.

We did not balance the prop shaft and I have had no issues since. Overkill IMHO....

Cheers

Mark

[johno]

Tav,

If you email me I will send you the S parts list which details the part numbers...

I sent them to Steve Parker and he's added them to the list.

Cheers

Mark

[tav]

Thanks Mark,

I've emailed you now.

I have done a couple of UJ's in the dim and distant past when I had a triumph spitfire, so have rough knowledge of what I'm possibly in for (I'm ever the optimist though and hope it will go easily!!!).

I'm contemplating replacing a blowing manifold gasket while I have the exhaust off so really might be asking for trouble having read your manifold diaries....

fingers crossed

[tav]

Well, looks like the finger crossing paid off. Took about 4 hours to get the propshaft out and stripped. Most of the time being spent working out how to get the propshaft past the diff. In the end I found that undoing the top cradle bolts and dropping it allowed enough space to pull the prop above it giving enough room for the front end to come out of the gearbox.

Dont know if this is the preferred method as the bible was a bit vague on this.

Now that it and the exhaust are off, I'm going to spend a bit of time cleaning up the bits of chassis that are exposed.

Mark,

did you manage to find that part number for the UJ yet - need to see if I can get them locally?

Also took the exhaust manifold off - which went smoothly. I think mainly, because it had been replaced some years ago, but I was still quite nervous undoing the nuts having heard all the stories.