Maintenance time
Maintenance time
Author
Discussion

RayTVR

Original Poster:

1,087 posts

172 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
quotequote all
After a good run last weekend to Stratford, and a clean bill of health at MOT, finally got round to some proper care and attention and servicing.

Rear shocks off as one as a split bump stop so they are going back for refurb (hopefully)



With the shocks off I have a good look at the trailing arms and they look good, move very freely on the bushes with no play or wear.

I can induce a noise though by rotating the hub - seems to be diff end of drive shaft and only happens on drivers side. (It does sound like a noise I sometimes get from the back on a bumpy surface at slow speed.) - Sound like CV joint?

Rear shoes need doing so will do that at the same time.

I'm also finally trying to address the low exhaust - Some revised rubber arrangements and some fiddling with the hockey sticks should resolve that one as well.

Any advice form the experts on the noise?

tvrgit

8,489 posts

281 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
quotequote all
what kind of noise? clicks, grating, rubbing? One direction (no not the boy band, I mean does it do it if you turn the shaft backwards?)

Hold the shaft in one hand and the diff flange in the other, check for any sign of play in the joint itself.

RayTVR

Original Poster:

1,087 posts

172 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
quotequote all
more of a 'clunk' maybe a loud click

happens in both directions.

thanks for the fast response

tvrgit

8,489 posts

281 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
quotequote all
yeah sounds like CV joint, try the twisty test I mentioned

RayTVR

Original Poster:

1,087 posts

172 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
quotequote all
Absolutley right - there is definite slack before the diff flange moves.


glenrobbo

40,446 posts

179 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
quotequote all
Hi Ray,
I replaced my CV joints ( mine was also worn on driver's side ).
There was a clicking sound on low speed left handers off throttle, for instance turning into roundabouts.
Got them from J&R Ltd, very reasonable price & quick delivery.
Fairly easy job, but you need a decent Torx bit & decent circlip pliers.

Search for my post for all the details:

TVR S Series Rear Diveshaft (sic) CV Joints.

( I left my 'r's out on the title & regretted it immediately wink
There's no way to alter the title once it's been submitted. frown )

Edited by glenrobbo on Saturday 10th May 15:59

RayTVR

Original Poster:

1,087 posts

172 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
quotequote all
More questions - DO the shafts just come out when the Torx bits are undone, or do you need to remove hub etc?

Suppose its best to do all four at the same time?


glenrobbo

40,446 posts

179 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
quotequote all
Yes, the driveshaft just comes straight off once the flanges are unbolted.

I only replaced the CV joints on the driver's side, but it's worth buying four kits so that you have two ready for when the other side needs doing.
15 months on, & my nearside original CV's are still good .....

That's probably put the mockers on them!

Good luck Ray smile

RayTVR

Original Poster:

1,087 posts

172 months

Sunday 11th May 2014
quotequote all
So about £40 for a replacement CV joint..
Or £50 for a complete new shaft

clicky

Any thoughts?

phillpot

17,508 posts

212 months

Sunday 11th May 2014
quotequote all
RayTVR said:
Any thoughts?
That's the company Glen suggested, think he paid about £24 each. looks like you get a free shaft these days!

glenrobbo

40,446 posts

179 months

Sunday 11th May 2014
quotequote all
RayTVR said:
So about £40 for a replacement CV joint..
Or £50 for a complete new shaft

clicky

Any thoughts?
Be careful what you order, as far as I know, the Sierra has different length shafts on either side. I think the S shafts are equal length.
From the link, it looks like the boots are bonded to the shaft, I can't see any clips, so that would limit future serviceability.

Whichever you decide on, make sure the details are the same as I gave in my post : i.e. with 100mm flanges etc.
There were quite a few different specs & sizes.
And I paid a lot less than £40 a joint. They are easy to change, just held on by circlips ( but you have to cope with all the black CV grease! ).

Edited by glenrobbo on Sunday 11th May 20:44