S1 Door Hinge Pins
Discussion
Well, I''m probably being a bit dense, but how DO you get at the door hinge pins to give them a good greasing?. It isn''t set out in Steve Heath''s Bible... My o/s door creaks and groans. I''ve flooded what I can see from the outside with WD40 to no avail. I''ve taken off the door trim and can just about feel three bolt heads inside the door - the central one being higher than the other two. What do I do next, any ideas?
Edited by muley on Tuesday 15th May 08:50
quote:I oil mine from the outside with the door open (you can just see the bolt going through the gap between the top of the door and the chassis). If it needs something more drastic like tightening or replacing worn pivots you can get at it from inside the door as you say. Each hinge consists of a sleeve bolted to the door, with a big pivot bolt going through it into the chassis. Disturb the sleeve and you will have to re-hang the door, you really don't want to do that. But you can undo the pivot bolt easily enough. Trick is to wind the window up (obviously) and then remove the front runner. Then you can get plenty of access to the pivot bolts. BTW only undo one pivot bolt at a time and make sure you don't drop the door! Also make sure you do the pivot bolt up tight, later on when the pivot starts to seize up again opening and closing the door will tend to unscrew it. If is comes loose the door can literally fall off (widely regarded as a Very Bad Thing, been there, done that).
Well, I''m probably being a bit dense, but how DO you get at the door hinge pins to give them a good greasing?. It isn''t set out in Steve Heath''s Bible... My o/s door creaks and groans. I''ve flooded what I can see from the outside with WD40 to no avail. I''ve taken off the door trim and can just about feel three bolt heads inside the door - the central one being higher than the other two. What do I do next, any ideas? Edited by muley on Tuesday 15th May 08:50
Hope this helps,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
Be warned if this problem persists then it could rip the brass nut out of the body, which is not good! I was quoted £700 somewhere to fix this!!!.If you can undo the central bolt (I think it's a 17mm head) as this is the pivot bolt, if it comes out easily think yourself very lucky as I have done 2 cars now and the first (my own car!) pulled the nut out! the second was a nightmare also!.When/if it comes out clean out any crud and grease it up and refit (oh no I am sounding like a Haynes manual!).This is probably one of the worst jobs in the world but if you leave it it's gonna get worse!
Sorry
LeeBee
Guys, thanks for the feedback. I'm dealing with the lower pin. I've leant on the 17mm. headed bolt and it won't give. Does this bolt runs thru the sleeve bolted to the door(or is it sleeves) and into the captive nut bonded into the body ?
Peeling back the carpet I think I can feel the glassfibre surrounding the captive nut. I assume if this is the same bolt running all the way thru and if I really lean on it I stand a risk of ripping the nut out of the body and creating a GBP 700 nightmare. If this is the case, I'll probably padsaw the bolt thru and drill out and re-tap the captive nut (a winter project methinks!)
LeeBee OK I have decided that it would be better to actually take out the hinge assembly from my spare doors and strip them down to the basic components rather than do a line diagram (i.e it's better to look at the real thing!).So I now have a few digital photo's of the hinge assy so where do you want them sent??
Cheers
LeeBee
OK as there were only 2 pics that are any good I have posted them to the vault on the main list (sorry don't have URL to hand)under "The S Files".The bolts on display are new ones just to make it a little clearer (the main M10 bolt through the centre is incorrect as it needs land at the top to stop the thread biting into the nylon bush, you will see what I mean upon removing the one in your door!).The brass bush at the bottom is the part that is bonded into the body (the person who removed these doors ripped it out!, but it was a write off so that's ok).It is quite a simple design really it's just a little difficult to see whats going on when its in situ.Anyway hope that helps a little and sorry for the delay!
cheers
LeeBee
LeeBee,
Well, I gave up on getting access to tvrmaillist, after waiting 3 weeks for some tosser to get their act together. All that happened is that my mail box got swamped with e-mails and that pissed off my isp so I am well brassed off with this yahoo groups joke factory.
So, sod it, try sending mail w/attachments to 'muley9999@hotmail.com'
and thanks once more.
Muley, the TVRCC mailing list at Yahoogroups (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tvrccmaillist) is open membership - once you've logged in to Yahoogroups you just sign up, you don't need to be approved. This is completely separate from the RO list Lee is talking about which is moderated by the club.
Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
quote:
LeeBee, Well, I gave up on getting access to tvrmaillist, after waiting 3 weeks for some tosser to get their act together. All that happened is that my mail box got swamped with e-mails and that pissed off my isp so I am well brassed off with this yahoo groups joke factory. So, sod it, try sending mail w/attachments to 'muley9999@hotmail.com' and thanks once more.
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