Fitting Shock Absorbers
Discussion
Not to digress too much...but my shocks and springs look like they are needing to be replaced...I have checked out some old threads, but those places are not in business anymore and I have read some bad things about GAZ (tops cracking)...
Which is better...GAZ or Avo?
Where is a good place to purchase at?
Which is better...GAZ or Avo?
Where is a good place to purchase at?
Mine are GAZ classics. Not aware of anybody having problems with them? Anybody out there who has?
Very easy indeed to fit. You will however have to spend some time getting the ride height right then setting the damper screws...then trying out and adjusting until they are right for your car. You can start with the suspension settings on the wiki at the top of this forum page.
Very easy indeed to fit. You will however have to spend some time getting the ride height right then setting the damper screws...then trying out and adjusting until they are right for your car. You can start with the suspension settings on the wiki at the top of this forum page.
Nice squatting!
Looking good Phill ( Mikepot? )
I'm cooking on Gaz myself, plus new polybushes on front upper & lower wishbones & TCA.
Handling totally transformed ( for the better! ), well worth it.
I believe the problems with Gaz Golds flagged up on here a few years ago applied to one batch only where oversized bushes had been fitted, causing the eye ends to split under the stress after a time.
Gaz took quick. action to remedy the problem, no reports of faulty shockers since AFAIK
Obviously you gets what you pays for, ( thanks Graham ) but I think the price/ performance ratio is pretty good.
There are better, but the price is a lot higher.
HTH
Glen
Edit: for one supplier, try Absolutely Shocks.
Looking good Phill ( Mikepot? )
I'm cooking on Gaz myself, plus new polybushes on front upper & lower wishbones & TCA.
Handling totally transformed ( for the better! ), well worth it.
I believe the problems with Gaz Golds flagged up on here a few years ago applied to one batch only where oversized bushes had been fitted, causing the eye ends to split under the stress after a time.
Gaz took quick. action to remedy the problem, no reports of faulty shockers since AFAIK
Obviously you gets what you pays for, ( thanks Graham ) but I think the price/ performance ratio is pretty good.
There are better, but the price is a lot higher.
HTH
Glen
Edit: for one supplier, try Absolutely Shocks.
Edited by glenrobbo on Thursday 3rd October 00:16
S2Mike said:
Are they listed for the S2?
Not sure what you mean Mike, same shocks for S1 through to S4 and V8S (V8 may have had different spring rates originally but then most folk seem to like something a bit stiffer when replacing).No idea if same shocks fits any other cars or shocks from any other car fit an S.
glenrobbo said:
I believe the problems with Gaz Golds flagged up on here a few years ago applied to one batch only where oversized bushes had been fitted, causing the eye ends to split under the stress after a time.
Gaz took quick. action to remedy the problem, no reports of faulty shockers since AFAIK
Glen, the splitting of the eye is what I thinking of...glad they are fixed!Gaz took quick. action to remedy the problem, no reports of faulty shockers since AFAIK
phillpot said:
jmccrary said:
can you post a profile pic of your car to see how the car sits?
Never one to give up a chance to post gratuitous pictures of my car............ 
It doesn't sit, it sort of "squats"
phillpot said:
S2Mike said:
Are they listed for the S2?
Not sure what you mean Mike, same shocks for S1 through to S4 and V8S (V8 may have had different spring rates originally but then most folk seem to like something a bit stiffer when replacing).No idea if same shocks fits any other cars or shocks from any other car fit an S.
Sorry didn't explain very well. I was wondering if they were purely a TVR S fitment or any other everyday car shared the same fittings.
MOT fail, on leaking shocker plus a rear wheel cylinder,and a brake imbalance front/rear. Still not bad for a 23 year old car.
Bilsteins appear to be £130 each, any bad press on these or worth a go?
Mike,
There are many different types/ sizes/ ratings of dampers to suit the diverse range of applications. Coilovers, lever arm type, MacPherson strut etc.
No idea if dampers for S Series would fit some other car types, it's entirely possible, but the mounting centre dimensions would have to be the same, and the design weight loading range similar.
But whichever make of coilovers you decide on, always change both sides of an axle ( ie as a pair ) or your handling will go awry.
Re your front/ rear brake imbalance, the system is designed to have a greater braking effort on the front than on the rear, that's what the brake proportioning valve above the driver's footwell is for.
However the values should be similar on each side per axle.
If you have a wheel cylinder leaking brake fluid onto your rear shoes, that will reduce braking effort on that wheel. Afraid that means you'll need to replace the shoes on both sides as well, once you have replaced the leaky wheel cyl.
Apologies if I'm teaching how to suck eggs.
Good luck with the MOT retest.
There are many different types/ sizes/ ratings of dampers to suit the diverse range of applications. Coilovers, lever arm type, MacPherson strut etc.
No idea if dampers for S Series would fit some other car types, it's entirely possible, but the mounting centre dimensions would have to be the same, and the design weight loading range similar.
But whichever make of coilovers you decide on, always change both sides of an axle ( ie as a pair ) or your handling will go awry.
Re your front/ rear brake imbalance, the system is designed to have a greater braking effort on the front than on the rear, that's what the brake proportioning valve above the driver's footwell is for.
However the values should be similar on each side per axle.
If you have a wheel cylinder leaking brake fluid onto your rear shoes, that will reduce braking effort on that wheel. Afraid that means you'll need to replace the shoes on both sides as well, once you have replaced the leaky wheel cyl.
Apologies if I'm teaching how to suck eggs.
Good luck with the MOT retest.
No Glen, although I think I understand a lot of things about cars, and learnt lots from my Dad, in this world you can always learn something new, every day, from others who offer advice. I will be changing the wheel cylinder and the rear shoes,
But will need a rolling road, to check the balance. Both shockers will be changed once I can decide on which is best for the way I use my "S" . My son has tried round all the main suppliers he uses at work, most don't have stock or build to order. So will follow Phillpot's suggestions, as I think both carry stock, just a bit of a shock at the costs, but you get what you pay for in this world. Racetech £290 for the front pair plus VAT. Now I have increased my mileage allowance in the "S". I will be pleased I chose a quality product.
Thats what this site is all about learning and offering advice. So glad I joined.
But will need a rolling road, to check the balance. Both shockers will be changed once I can decide on which is best for the way I use my "S" . My son has tried round all the main suppliers he uses at work, most don't have stock or build to order. So will follow Phillpot's suggestions, as I think both carry stock, just a bit of a shock at the costs, but you get what you pay for in this world. Racetech £290 for the front pair plus VAT. Now I have increased my mileage allowance in the "S". I will be pleased I chose a quality product.
Thats what this site is all about learning and offering advice. So glad I joined.
Cheers Mike,
If you are a TVR Car Club member, don't forget to ask your supplier for discount.
Every little helps.
Good luck,
Glen
Edit: I really don't think you need a rolling road to check your brakes if you replace the defective parts & adjust them properly.
Make sure you clean & check the serrations on the snail cam adjusters for wear when you're replacing the rear shoes. ( I use a brass wire suede shoe brush )
The brake effort should be within limits on the retest
If you are a TVR Car Club member, don't forget to ask your supplier for discount.
Every little helps.
Good luck,
Glen
Edit: I really don't think you need a rolling road to check your brakes if you replace the defective parts & adjust them properly.
Make sure you clean & check the serrations on the snail cam adjusters for wear when you're replacing the rear shoes. ( I use a brass wire suede shoe brush )
The brake effort should be within limits on the retest
Edited by glenrobbo on Saturday 5th October 23:47
jmccrary said:
I did some more looking on the car tonight...the full rear suspension has been upgraded...and the rear shocks are AVO...
Justin, what have you got ftted at the front end? Have they also been replaced?And what made you think your suspension needed upgrading?
Is the handling all over the place?
Are the suspension rubbers distorted, perished or deteriorated?
Have you "bounced" each corner to check the damping?
Does your car "lurch" into corners?
Does it wander a lot in a straight line?
What tyres are fitted? Tyres can make a huge difference to the "feel" of a car.
All I'm saying is check things out before committing to spending your hard-earned.
glenrobbo said:
Does it wander a lot in a straight line?
This is does...but I am thinking this main cause is from the steering bulkhead bearing being perished...however, the front suspension looks horrible and original...I need to clean the chassis from all the dirt and also clean the front arms to check them a bit closer...more to follow!Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff