Virgin S3 owner needs Help!!!
Discussion
Hi all.Don't shout and laugh at my questions as it's my first go here and as I have just picked up my shiny S3 two hours ago am ready for the tool box to open.
My questions are
1/ I need some new springs for the front and need to know what to buy.I have Autocross motorsport filled to the roof with springs and thought it might be a good idea(and cheaper than TVR) to get some from there.All I need in laymans terms all the info for them.I wish for now to get the suspension to a standard setting as a bit skint at the mo.
2/ Fuel gauge doesnt move.Is always empty.Is this the sender thats at fault?
3/ Door hinges need repairing.Is it an easy job and where to get the bits from?
I'm sure as the weekend progresses,there will be many a post being put up,but for now this will do
Cheers Just
My questions are
1/ I need some new springs for the front and need to know what to buy.I have Autocross motorsport filled to the roof with springs and thought it might be a good idea(and cheaper than TVR) to get some from there.All I need in laymans terms all the info for them.I wish for now to get the suspension to a standard setting as a bit skint at the mo.
2/ Fuel gauge doesnt move.Is always empty.Is this the sender thats at fault?
3/ Door hinges need repairing.Is it an easy job and where to get the bits from?
I'm sure as the weekend progresses,there will be many a post being put up,but for now this will do
Cheers Just
Justin,
Welcome to the 'S' forum.
With regard to suspension, you will probably get 100 different answers.
Before you make changes, decide what you want to do with the car, i.e. Is comfortable ride is a priority, or would you prefer the car to handle a bit better? If you want to have the ultimate in terms of handling, (for future track days, sprinting etc...) there are a few of us who can help there as well. I am guessing that you want the car to be close to standard. Why do you want to change the springs? It is more usual for people to want to change dampers as these are the usual cause of poor handling, (although the springs do soften after a long time). If you definitely want springs, a good starting point is that the fronts seem to be around 200Lbs or so as standard. You can either get them from TVR or if the company has a spring tester, they can check the poundage for you. (You will need to take one off the car to measure the unsprung length anyway).
Maybe Peter Humphries can help a bit more here, since he tends to works things out carefully whereas I tend to go by how the car feels.
Fuel tanks and door drops i'll leave to someone who has experienced your problems!
Jas.
Welcome to the 'S' forum.
With regard to suspension, you will probably get 100 different answers.
Before you make changes, decide what you want to do with the car, i.e. Is comfortable ride is a priority, or would you prefer the car to handle a bit better? If you want to have the ultimate in terms of handling, (for future track days, sprinting etc...) there are a few of us who can help there as well. I am guessing that you want the car to be close to standard. Why do you want to change the springs? It is more usual for people to want to change dampers as these are the usual cause of poor handling, (although the springs do soften after a long time). If you definitely want springs, a good starting point is that the fronts seem to be around 200Lbs or so as standard. You can either get them from TVR or if the company has a spring tester, they can check the poundage for you. (You will need to take one off the car to measure the unsprung length anyway). Maybe Peter Humphries can help a bit more here, since he tends to works things out carefully whereas I tend to go by how the car feels.
Fuel tanks and door drops i'll leave to someone who has experienced your problems!
Jas.
Jas,cheers for the reply.The reason for changing the springs is the fact they have slumped so much the bonnet wont open enough to sit on the bonnet arm.I know I can jack up the car and then open it,but you can see the coils on the springs have gone soft and sunk.I wish to keep the car as standard for now,as funds permit will mod the shocks etc at a later date.It was just to get the car rolling safely for now.
Hi Justin, welcome and all that good stuff. Springs-don't know. Door drops, so does mine, I'll be interested to see if there is a quick fix as well !!
Petrol gauge will read empty if the tank is not earthed. Check the wire on the side of the tank on the nearside of the car.....wheel will have to come off probably. Try earthing the tank manually with a spare bit of wire.....if the gauge moves then that's your snag. (obviously, make sure there's gas in there to register!!)
All the best with your new motor.
Petrol gauge will read empty if the tank is not earthed. Check the wire on the side of the tank on the nearside of the car.....wheel will have to come off probably. Try earthing the tank manually with a spare bit of wire.....if the gauge moves then that's your snag. (obviously, make sure there's gas in there to register!!)
All the best with your new motor.
Welcome Justin !!
1 - Springs
Standard 190lbs front and rear. I think they are 10inch aswell. Many of the specialist such as Tower View will be able to supply. If you do not intend on changing the dampers aswell then just go with standard rates and upgrade later if you want to. It is worth it.
2 - Fuel Gauge
Likely to be the sender or the earth to the sender but don't ignore obvoious stuff like the fuse and connections to the back of the gauge.
3 - Door Hinges
The door hinges are very basic and have a nylon bush in them. Over time this bush wears out and hence the door dropping. There are other reasons aswll and if you are unlucky then the hinge may have pulled out of the fibre glass. It is also possible that they just need adjusting which involves removing the door card and mucking about with (likely) corroded bolts. All best left to someone who really knows what they're doing IMHO and you're looking around £300 ish top whack.
Enjoy the car and hope to see you along at some of the PH meets .....
Cheers
Mark
1 - Springs
Standard 190lbs front and rear. I think they are 10inch aswell. Many of the specialist such as Tower View will be able to supply. If you do not intend on changing the dampers aswell then just go with standard rates and upgrade later if you want to. It is worth it.
2 - Fuel Gauge
Likely to be the sender or the earth to the sender but don't ignore obvoious stuff like the fuse and connections to the back of the gauge.
3 - Door Hinges
The door hinges are very basic and have a nylon bush in them. Over time this bush wears out and hence the door dropping. There are other reasons aswll and if you are unlucky then the hinge may have pulled out of the fibre glass. It is also possible that they just need adjusting which involves removing the door card and mucking about with (likely) corroded bolts. All best left to someone who really knows what they're doing IMHO and you're looking around £300 ish top whack.
Enjoy the car and hope to see you along at some of the PH meets .....
Cheers
Mark
Thanks for all the help.The door hinges have dropped so the top of the door hits above the lock panel and has chaffed the paint away.
As for ability to repair,I will have a go at anything.I have had a Westfield for 4 years and sold on to buy the S3.I always used to have problems with the fuel gauge with that and in the end resorted to drilling and fitting a new sender in the top of the tank,so I'm prepared for this lot.The tank is rusty and one of the reasons I got a good deal on the car.
I have ordered a pair of front springs for the front from Henley Heritage at £56 each,I bit the bullet!!!
Who and where are the Tower people?I have sent off the TVRCC paperwork.Are they advertising in there?
I have also the joy of chassis painting this winter.I can't find any holes in the outriggers etc,so will enjoy the 'summer' while it's here.
One other little thing that makes it look tatty,is the headlamps have lost their chrome around the side lights (possibly MOT failure) and all the chrome inner and outer rims are rusted through.Where are these available?
Cheers Everyone Just
As for ability to repair,I will have a go at anything.I have had a Westfield for 4 years and sold on to buy the S3.I always used to have problems with the fuel gauge with that and in the end resorted to drilling and fitting a new sender in the top of the tank,so I'm prepared for this lot.The tank is rusty and one of the reasons I got a good deal on the car.
I have ordered a pair of front springs for the front from Henley Heritage at £56 each,I bit the bullet!!!
Who and where are the Tower people?I have sent off the TVRCC paperwork.Are they advertising in there?
I have also the joy of chassis painting this winter.I can't find any holes in the outriggers etc,so will enjoy the 'summer' while it's here.
One other little thing that makes it look tatty,is the headlamps have lost their chrome around the side lights (possibly MOT failure) and all the chrome inner and outer rims are rusted through.Where are these available?
Cheers Everyone Just
Hi Justin,
Welcome. I have had similar problems with door hinges, if the door has play in it (ie moves up and down when you lift it) it could be the main bolt that is loose. This bolt goes through a plate that is bolted into the door and into a threaded plate bonded into the body.
You can access this when the door trim and window frame are removed but it is a pig to get right.
LeeBee is v good at this repair and will give you a good price - he's based in Oxford.
I found Henley Heritage very dear on parts, assuming your near them the local specialist is Thames Valley Racetech in Sonning Common who are often recommended here.
I got replacement headlight units from Henley H a couple of years back for my S3 when I had it - not cheap but the usual auto factors couldn't help. It would be worth talking to David Gerald as they have most spares and will post out to you.
Good luck,
JSG
Welcome. I have had similar problems with door hinges, if the door has play in it (ie moves up and down when you lift it) it could be the main bolt that is loose. This bolt goes through a plate that is bolted into the door and into a threaded plate bonded into the body.
You can access this when the door trim and window frame are removed but it is a pig to get right.
LeeBee is v good at this repair and will give you a good price - he's based in Oxford.
I found Henley Heritage very dear on parts, assuming your near them the local specialist is Thames Valley Racetech in Sonning Common who are often recommended here.
I got replacement headlight units from Henley H a couple of years back for my S3 when I had it - not cheap but the usual auto factors couldn't help. It would be worth talking to David Gerald as they have most spares and will post out to you.
Good luck,
JSG
quote:
I have ordered a pair of front springs for the front from Henley Heritage at £56 each,I bit the bullet!!!
BLOODY HELL! £112 for a pair of springs? They are taking the pi55, that's outrageous!
You can get a pair of springs from Rally Design down in Faversham, Kent for probably less than £40 the pair! They also do mail order!
If I were you, i'd cancel the Henley order and talk to Rally Design. Even if they don't have them in stock, they will be able to get them made.
Jas.
P.S. Don't fall for the line, "They are special TVR springs sir that are unique for your car". A line many dealers use for common parts.
Cheers Jas,will look them up as it seems the rears are a bit untidy too.On inspection found the front offside is broken in one place and the nearside in two!!!!That might explain the low front.The fuel guage has been traced back to the sender or bad earth through the weld tab for the earth wire connection.Have replaced the end terminal crimps and when wires were joined the gauge went to max.Do Rally design do rear shocks as these are weeping a bit too.Sounds like a basket case,but this is British motor cars!!!!
quote:
Cheers Jas,will look them up as it seems the rears are a bit untidy too.On inspection found the front offside is broken in one place and the nearside in two!!!!That might explain the low front.The fuel guage has been traced back to the sender or bad earth through the weld tab for the earth wire connection.Have replaced the end terminal crimps and when wires were joined the gauge went to max.Do Rally design do rear shocks as these are weeping a bit too.Sounds like a basket case,but this is British motor cars!!!!
If you're thinking about replacing the shocks, get springs with them. Suggest you replace all four as a matter of course, given the state you describe. When replacing them, you need to ensure you get the right length and strength springs. Most of the TVR dealers and specialists will offer mildly uprated suspension package tailored to the car. I can recommend the Tower View Gaz setup, but then I'm biased because I helped spec it!
Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
Hmmmmm! If you want shocks as well, then as Peter has said you should get shocks and springs at the same time. Rally Design do sell shocks, but not for 'S' series TVR's unfortunately. For standard shocks you need to go back to TVR dealers. You can still get the springs from Rally Design, but if you use companies like Nitron, Leda, etc.. The best thing is to get the whole package IMO as spring tolerances can vary the poundages quite dramatically.
If I were in your shoes I would either,
1. Buy shocks from TVR, and buy springs from Rally Design, OR.....
2. Buy Shocks and springs from Nitron or Leda.
Bear in mind that if you go with option 2, you will need to do all four corners as the suspension will be very highly developed, and to change just one end of the car, and leaving the other end standard will quite probably result in a big crash!
Jas.
P.S. Broken front springs seem to be quite common, and is the reason I uprated my suspension. There is no way I could break a 700Lb front spring now!
>> Edited by Paceracing on Monday 8th July 17:41
If I were in your shoes I would either,
1. Buy shocks from TVR, and buy springs from Rally Design, OR.....
2. Buy Shocks and springs from Nitron or Leda.
Bear in mind that if you go with option 2, you will need to do all four corners as the suspension will be very highly developed, and to change just one end of the car, and leaving the other end standard will quite probably result in a big crash!
Jas.
P.S. Broken front springs seem to be quite common, and is the reason I uprated my suspension. There is no way I could break a 700Lb front spring now!
>> Edited by Paceracing on Monday 8th July 17:41
struggling to find replacement springs.The front shocks look clean and new as a comparison to the rear.Thats the reason as to just doing the front springs only and will replace the springs and shocks on the rear.I have sourced some springs tho,as Tower didnt phone back.Rally design were no help at all,but Autocross said no problem.They even said to give them a part number off the rear shocks and they can source the Koni's.Cost of springs,£22 each.I will uprate at some stage,just got married,moved house and bought the car,so have mercy you lot!!!!!.Where is the place that I can get the replacement lockring and seal for the fuel sender? or do they do a complete sender assembly,as this is probably the best solution.
Cheers Just
Cheers Just
Fuel sender problems - I sourced a lock ring and rubber gasket from my local TVR dealer, TMS at Melton Mowbray.
My own sender packed up due to the failure of the soldered joint, where the internal end of the electrical spade connectors link to the variable resistance PCB. You will need to remove the sender to see this. The joints look OK but testing with a simple meter confirmed a circuit break at this point.
My own sender packed up due to the failure of the soldered joint, where the internal end of the electrical spade connectors link to the variable resistance PCB. You will need to remove the sender to see this. The joints look OK but testing with a simple meter confirmed a circuit break at this point.
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