New coolant hose needed
New coolant hose needed
Author
Discussion

pcashman

Original Poster:

67 posts

180 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
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Hi Folks,

I was planning on going to my first TVR meet on Thursday (Cambridgeshire), but I noticed a pool of coolant under the car this evening, and traced it to the difficult to get to hose going through the engine on the passenger side (#12 when you scroll down the v6 24valve engine diagram on http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/leaks.htm).

Any idea if I can pick one up in eurocarparts or similar? I can't seem to find anything online that isn't a full kit. All the rest of the hoses are newer blue silicone ones. Only this one is black rubber.

This place seems to sell them singly, but it would be handier to pick it up at the local car parts place ... http://www.tickover.co.uk/shop/contents/en-uk/d70....

Thanking you in anticipation
Paul


phillpot

17,509 posts

212 months

Monday 17th June 2013
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All very different to the standard 12v engine.

12 is a hose clip, have I got wrong drawing?


junglieD

165 posts

183 months

Monday 17th June 2013
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I recently had a leak spring from a difficult to access bottom hose on the passenger side that sounds similair to that described by pcashman (although i couldnt load the linked site to confirm hose #12). It was in a similar position and size to no 1 on phillpot's posted graphic although it connects the engine to the metal pipe 'extender' from the bottom of the radiator.

As a quick fix I used a Halfrauds repair tape which enabled me to get the car though its MOT successfully last week (one advisory - light misting on rear shock). I'd also be keen to purchase just the singular replacement hose if you manage to find a source. (Which one of the Ford hoses had you identified it as on the linked website pcashman?)

David

pcashman

Original Poster:

67 posts

180 months

Monday 17th June 2013
quotequote all


It's #12 on the image above Phillpot (slightly further down the page from the one you pasted above). The full set is available from a number of sites, but it costs £130! I will try calling them to see if they have a spare around, unless someone can help with a better solution.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granada-Cosworth-2-9-24V...

Paul

phillpot

17,509 posts

212 months

Monday 17th June 2013
quotequote all

So from the picture it's got a bit of a "wiggle" in it but would a length of straight heater hose fit? Just have to be a little careful to not get a kink in it.

Probably 16mm innner diameter, should be readily available from any half decent motor factor or Ebay.



Edited by phillpot on Monday 17th June 16:07

pcashman

Original Poster:

67 posts

180 months

Monday 17th June 2013
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Sounds like a very reason suggestion Phillpot; I think it's worth a pop. I'll let you know how it goes David

chiefyo

279 posts

194 months

Monday 17th June 2013
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To help with stopping your hose going kinky, you can get hose formers which resemble a spring with a strip of metal down one side. This slips over your hose and you bend it to shape. Or the old style solution was put a suitable size spring inside the hose.

pcashman

Original Poster:

67 posts

180 months

Thursday 20th June 2013
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Bit of a fail with the heater hose - sorry the picture is on it's side. I found 22mm heater hose at Express Auto, and managed to connect it all up without taking the engine apart. Unfortunately, there are 2 kinks and I don't think a shaping spring is going to help although the chaps at Express Auto could source them too. I'm going to call some of the hose companies and see if they will sell one part of the set. Will let you know the outcome.

Ragtop

592 posts

230 months

Thursday 20th June 2013
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pcashman

Original Poster:

67 posts

180 months

Thursday 20th June 2013
quotequote all
Looks like it might be a tight squeeze, but it might just work. Thanks Graham - should know early next week!

phillpot

17,509 posts

212 months

Friday 21st June 2013
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If a single "correct" hose can't be sourced another option would be to concoct something with pre-formed bends and joiners?

pcashman

Original Poster:

67 posts

180 months

Sunday 23rd June 2013
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Good news Graham. That flexible hose worked nicely and it wasn't too much of a struggle. I don't know how well the jubilee clips will compress it and make the joins watertight as it is a bit tough, so will feed back over time before David goes off and buys some. The image shows how it is at the moment but I'm thinking about putting fibreglass wrap insulator on the manifolds/exhaust to limit heat nearby and slow down the perishing of rubber bits.

Only one concern - when I filled up the swirl pot and turned on the car, the temperature gauze stayed at zero! I only ran it for a couple of mins but usually that is enough to start the temperature rising. I turned off the car in case of overheating and had to go out to dinner so haven't had another go yet. Any ideas?

Image is on its side again - apologies
Paul


phillpot

17,509 posts

212 months

Sunday 23rd June 2013
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Air-lock, so sensor is in air rather than water?

pcashman

Original Poster:

67 posts

180 months

Sunday 23rd June 2013
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Any remedies? I thought the thermostat bypass should prevent an air lock; or maybe I didn't let it run for long enough...

phillpot

17,509 posts

212 months

Monday 24th June 2013
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Do you still have an original radiator, is there a bleed screw top left corner?

Is heater set to "hot", that may help.


Other than that, with your car being a bit "unique" it's a case of try whatever you can..... run engine with pressure cap off, squeeze and release hoses sometimes helps.

Or, with engine off, disconnect the highest hose you can see (maybe a heater hose) and backfill from there?


AutoAndy

2,270 posts

244 months

Monday 24th June 2013
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On mine - with no bleed screw (actually at the bottom on mine) I disconnected the top hose in the rad (when cold) and filled at the swirl pot until it peed out of the undone hose. ... Got most of the air out.

Griffinr

1,017 posts

203 months

Monday 24th June 2013
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Have had the water in and out of mine a lot recently and found the best way to fill it was to disconnect one end of the 16mm hose from the cylinder head to the heater valve and fill through the swirl pot as normal. You obviously need to bleed the top of the rad also, but it filled up full first time with no airlocks using this method.
Rob.

pcashman

Original Poster:

67 posts

180 months

Monday 24th June 2013
quotequote all
Cheers everybody. Bled radiator - no air there. Opened up return from heat exchanger and there was no coolant there. Let her run again and eventually coolant arrived and at roughly the same time the temp gauge started registering! We are back in business here. Went for a short spin and the car felt better than ever before. Checked and the jubilee clips seem to have done their job - no leaks at either end.

The moral of this lesson.. when something isn't going right. Stop. Email the forum and continue the following day.
Paul