Jacking point on a S2 ?
Discussion
tried jacking mine on the outriggers once, lots of "creaking", wasn't happy (and my chassis is sound).
Are you looking to get the whole car well up in the air, gearbox out for example or a corner at a time to do brakes and so on?
To get front up there is a nice big cross member (i presume you're using a trolley jack) and for back end ideally a jack both sides under the big tubes the trailing arms attach to.
Back end is a little more aukward because the exhaust stops you getting the jack nice central for an even lift.
If you can get a jack under either of the crossmembers (blue arrows) you'll get the front end up and change both wheels brake pads or whatever.
to lift either front corner you want to be under the outrigger (green arrow) ideally where that diagonal joins, nice and strong there.
For the backend get your jack under one of those big tubes the trailing arms hang off (purple arrow)
I personally, probably along with many others, would prefer to jack / axle stand under the main chassis rails than the outriggers.
Keep in mind though, that most garages use 2 post lifts and therefore will need to lift under the outriggers.
If the outriggers are in satisfactory condition, they should be able to withstand lifting at the triangulation points.
Keep in mind though, that most garages use 2 post lifts and therefore will need to lift under the outriggers.
If the outriggers are in satisfactory condition, they should be able to withstand lifting at the triangulation points.
I've seen a fair few cars with round chassis tubes flattened at the bottom because people have used them as jacking points. Even if the outrigger tubes are still strong enough to take the weight (not a certainty on an old car), I'd be wary of using them as jacking points. I prefer to jack under the square tubes. Even there I use a wooden pad to spread the load.
GreenV8S said:
I prefer to jack under the square tubes. Even there I use a wooden pad to spread the load.
Agreed. If I am at home it is always trolley jack under the square tubes (with a wood block as the trolley jack has quite pronounced 'spikes' on it). I never use the round tubes except for wheel stands and at the large cross tubes Mike identified.For roadside emergencies (yes, even sometimes in a TVR!!!!) I went to the trouble of welding a curved section onto the top of my scissor jack to fit the curved chassis tubes.
I did however, with my garage owner friend, jack it under the outrigger tubes just to see if my nerves could take it. No problems for the car but me nerves didn't like it at all and I wont be doing it again!
You can use the outriggers to lift it, but only if you're using a two-post lift (as that puts the least amount of strain on them). And then that's only if you know your outriggers are sound, and I'd bet 50% of owners don't know for sure.
Using a trolley jack to lift one corner at a time is asking for trouble. In a real emergency you could place a jack under the upright of the rear beam to access one of the rear wheels, but the best place is the rectangular lower chassis rail as suggested, ideally with a bit of timber or something braced across both sides (on the front at least).
Using a trolley jack to lift one corner at a time is asking for trouble. In a real emergency you could place a jack under the upright of the rear beam to access one of the rear wheels, but the best place is the rectangular lower chassis rail as suggested, ideally with a bit of timber or something braced across both sides (on the front at least).
Agree with the wooden block to spread the load, I use carpet gaffa taped to the top of the jack to prevent damage to the tubes (also less likely to slip)
The square chassis tubes are so far inboard that access with the jack is difficult and the car is unstable when solely supported in this manner.
And lets face it fellas, if your chassis is so far gone it won’t cope with being carefully lifted at a (structural) corner it’s time for a body off.
The square chassis tubes are so far inboard that access with the jack is difficult and the car is unstable when solely supported in this manner.
And lets face it fellas, if your chassis is so far gone it won’t cope with being carefully lifted at a (structural) corner it’s time for a body off.
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