Jacking point on a S2 ?

Jacking point on a S2 ?

Author
Discussion

TVR TELL

Original Poster:

278 posts

152 months

Wednesday 17th April 2013
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Hi folks
Is it ok to jack my S2 up using the outriggers or should I use the main chassie ?

GadgeS3C

4,516 posts

170 months

Wednesday 17th April 2013
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You may well get away with jacking on the outriggers but I'd play safe and jack it on the chassis and ideally somewhere the chassis is triangulated.

Probably a good test to see if the outriggers are past it though wink

S2Mike

3,065 posts

156 months

Wednesday 17th April 2013
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I have to say I cringed rather a lot when my S2 went in to get the tracking and wheel balance done at my local garage.
They put it on the two post ramp and lifted it with the four pads under the outriggers, before removing all 4 wheels. eek
Testiment to the quality build of our TVRs.

phillpot

17,252 posts

189 months

Wednesday 17th April 2013
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tried jacking mine on the outriggers once, lots of "creaking", wasn't happy (and my chassis is sound).

Are you looking to get the whole car well up in the air, gearbox out for example or a corner at a time to do brakes and so on?

To get front up there is a nice big cross member (i presume you're using a trolley jack) and for back end ideally a jack both sides under the big tubes the trailing arms attach to.
Back end is a little more aukward because the exhaust stops you getting the jack nice central for an even lift.

Rower

1,381 posts

272 months

Thursday 18th April 2013
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Hi Terry , I assume all went well with your outrigger replacements ,would be great to have your feed back, but in any case do not use them as jacking points , use the main central chassis rail at all times .

Fez887

334 posts

80 months

Saturday 16th February 2019
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To be certain any chance of a picture of the correct point to jack for tyre change?

phillpot

17,252 posts

189 months

Saturday 16th February 2019
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If you can get a jack under either of the crossmembers (blue arrows) you'll get the front end up and change both wheels brake pads or whatever.

to lift either front corner you want to be under the outrigger (green arrow) ideally where that diagonal joins, nice and strong there.

For the backend get your jack under one of those big tubes the trailing arms hang off (purple arrow)



Fez887

334 posts

80 months

Tuesday 19th February 2019
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Thanks, should be interesting to see how easy the wheels and tyres come off after 12 years!

BIG DUNC

1,918 posts

229 months

Tuesday 19th February 2019
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I personally, probably along with many others, would prefer to jack / axle stand under the main chassis rails than the outriggers.

Keep in mind though, that most garages use 2 post lifts and therefore will need to lift under the outriggers.

If the outriggers are in satisfactory condition, they should be able to withstand lifting at the triangulation points.

jned2

198 posts

135 months

Tuesday 19th February 2019
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Seems like a quick and easy way too find out the state of your outriggers. wink

GreenV8S

30,421 posts

290 months

Tuesday 19th February 2019
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I've seen a fair few cars with round chassis tubes flattened at the bottom because people have used them as jacking points. Even if the outrigger tubes are still strong enough to take the weight (not a certainty on an old car), I'd be wary of using them as jacking points. I prefer to jack under the square tubes. Even there I use a wooden pad to spread the load.

greymrj

3,316 posts

210 months

Tuesday 19th February 2019
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GreenV8S said:
I prefer to jack under the square tubes. Even there I use a wooden pad to spread the load.
Agreed. If I am at home it is always trolley jack under the square tubes (with a wood block as the trolley jack has quite pronounced 'spikes' on it). I never use the round tubes except for wheel stands and at the large cross tubes Mike identified.
For roadside emergencies (yes, even sometimes in a TVR!!!!) I went to the trouble of welding a curved section onto the top of my scissor jack to fit the curved chassis tubes.

I did however, with my garage owner friend, jack it under the outrigger tubes just to see if my nerves could take it. No problems for the car but me nerves didn't like it at all and I wont be doing it again!

Kitchski

6,525 posts

237 months

Thursday 21st February 2019
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You can use the outriggers to lift it, but only if you're using a two-post lift (as that puts the least amount of strain on them). And then that's only if you know your outriggers are sound, and I'd bet 50% of owners don't know for sure.
Using a trolley jack to lift one corner at a time is asking for trouble. In a real emergency you could place a jack under the upright of the rear beam to access one of the rear wheels, but the best place is the rectangular lower chassis rail as suggested, ideally with a bit of timber or something braced across both sides (on the front at least).

phillpot

17,252 posts

189 months

Thursday 21st February 2019
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Seems like I got one of the rare cars with a steel chassis, you guys all seem to have the chocolate ones biggrin

magpies

5,142 posts

188 months

Friday 22nd February 2019
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phillpot said:
Seems like I got one of the rare cars with a STAINLESS steel chassis, you guys all seem to have the chocolate ones biggrin
changed it for you as I know you like shiny things cool

Kitchski

6,525 posts

237 months

Friday 22nd February 2019
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magpies said:
phillpot said:
Seems like I got one of the rare cars with a STAINLESS steel chassis, you guys all seem to have the chocolate ones biggrin
changed it for you as I know you like shiny things cool
Cracking joke....

Alan461

853 posts

137 months

Friday 22nd February 2019
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Agree with the wooden block to spread the load, I use carpet gaffa taped to the top of the jack to prevent damage to the tubes (also less likely to slip)
The square chassis tubes are so far inboard that access with the jack is difficult and the car is unstable when solely supported in this manner.
And lets face it fellas, if your chassis is so far gone it won’t cope with being carefully lifted at a (structural) corner it’s time for a body off.