S2 Clutch Adjustment Tips?
Discussion
Now that my S2 is up and running I am moving onto the next problem that needs solving, and that is the clutch. At the moment the biting point is very low and selecting any gear is difficult, especially when the car is cold. It gets a little easer as the car warms up. Now, I've checked the clutch fluid and it needed topping up a little but has made no difference. I suspect air in the system, but pumping the pedal before changing gear has no effect. Is there any other adjustment for the clutch at the slave cylinder? There are no untoward noised with the clutch pressed or depressed. Gearbox oil? Adjustment? or new clutch? Is the clutch an engine out job on one of these and does anyone know how much it should cost? Any help or ideas would be very welcome as I am new to the S world as until recently I was a wedge man. Thanks in advance gentlemen.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
Poss hydraulic fault - personally when there has been any doubt I have changed both master and slave - there are some very reasonably priced items out there I'll see if I can find what I have bought in the past for cars I've worked on.
It's a s
te job that you definately only want to do once.
See if you can determine if the slave is moving a decent amount when you press the clutch.
A camera or smartphone suitably propped in movie recording mode under the car can work well.
It's a s
te job that you definately only want to do once. See if you can determine if the slave is moving a decent amount when you press the clutch.
A camera or smartphone suitably propped in movie recording mode under the car can work well.
Barkychoc said:
Poss hydraulic fault - personally when there has been any doubt I have changed both master and slave - there are some very reasonably priced items out there I'll see if I can find what I have bought in the past for cars I've worked on.
It's a ste job that you definately only want to do once.
See if you can determine if the slave is moving a decent amount when you press the clutch.
A camera or smartphone suitably propped in movie recording mode under the car can work well.
If you could tell me what car the master and the slave come from, it would be a great help, as I could change both of those first and hope for the best. If that doesn't do it then it has to be the clutch I guess. Thanks for the quick response. All the best.It's a s
te job that you definately only want to do once. See if you can determine if the slave is moving a decent amount when you press the clutch.
A camera or smartphone suitably propped in movie recording mode under the car can work well.
Tony. TCB.
I have an unfortunate personality trait. Well to be honest, I have several, but the one I am discussing today is that, perhaps irrationally, I get really pissed off by people who repair their cars by changing parts almost at random, until one of those substitutions happens to repair the problem they started with.
Once again, I would suggest that you need to be more methodical in diagnosing the actual problem.
Barkychoc has given advice: first check to see if pressing the pedal moves the operating lever at the gearbox end. If it does, then the problem is likely to be in the clutch itself.
If it doesn't, then you need to diagnose why:
1. does it need to be bled?
2. Is there fluid leaking around the slave cylinder? If it's not moving, then the fluid displaced by the pedal has to go somewhere, and that is likely to be past the seals and all over the cylinder.
3. If it has been bled, and there is no fluid around the cylinder, and the clutch operating rod is still not moving, then the problem is likely to be at the master cylinder. It might not necessarily be leaking if it has failed.
4. Before you rush off and buy one though, one final check - is the clutch cylinder and the operating rod moving, but not pushing the lever (into the bell housing) far enough? It's not unknown for the operating rod to punch through the lever (it's only pressed steel) which reduces the effective movement of the clutch itself. Repair of that involves welding a nut on to the operating arm to strengthen the hole, so that it won't punch through.
Can't help with what parts you need, sorry. Mine has only done 100,000 miles on its original clutch so I haven't encountered these problems yet (although I suddenly suspect that by making that statement, I am tempting fate...)
Have you looked at the parts list and alternative parts list under the "useful links" wiki at the top of this forum? Useful info there.
Once again, I would suggest that you need to be more methodical in diagnosing the actual problem.
Barkychoc has given advice: first check to see if pressing the pedal moves the operating lever at the gearbox end. If it does, then the problem is likely to be in the clutch itself.
If it doesn't, then you need to diagnose why:
1. does it need to be bled?
2. Is there fluid leaking around the slave cylinder? If it's not moving, then the fluid displaced by the pedal has to go somewhere, and that is likely to be past the seals and all over the cylinder.
3. If it has been bled, and there is no fluid around the cylinder, and the clutch operating rod is still not moving, then the problem is likely to be at the master cylinder. It might not necessarily be leaking if it has failed.
4. Before you rush off and buy one though, one final check - is the clutch cylinder and the operating rod moving, but not pushing the lever (into the bell housing) far enough? It's not unknown for the operating rod to punch through the lever (it's only pressed steel) which reduces the effective movement of the clutch itself. Repair of that involves welding a nut on to the operating arm to strengthen the hole, so that it won't punch through.
Can't help with what parts you need, sorry. Mine has only done 100,000 miles on its original clutch so I haven't encountered these problems yet (although I suddenly suspect that by making that statement, I am tempting fate...)
Have you looked at the parts list and alternative parts list under the "useful links" wiki at the top of this forum? Useful info there.
tvrgit, thanks for your detailed diagnosis procedure. Like you, I too am methodical in repairing my vehicles and do the diagnosis stage by stage checking everything as I go along. Perhaps I worded my question wrong by saying I'll change both master and slave. What I really meant was that if I know what vehicle they come from I will be able to source them if and when needed.
You have given me some valuable information and with that I am sure I will be able to work out the problem. Keeping my fingers crossed that it doesn't turn out to be the clutch itself. I'll keep you informed of my findings. Thanks again.
Tony.TCB.
You have given me some valuable information and with that I am sure I will be able to work out the problem. Keeping my fingers crossed that it doesn't turn out to be the clutch itself. I'll keep you informed of my findings. Thanks again.
Tony.TCB.
ElvisWedgely said:
? Is the clutch an engine out job on one of these ?
No, gearbox will come out but it's a bit of a struggle or engine out and take the opportunity to tidy things up a bit while its out?Lots been written in the past but, no surprise, search isn't working
Basically nearside rocker cover and dizzy cap have to come off to allow engine to slope back far enough (I took dizzy right out rather than risk damaging anything).
Going back in is made a little easier if you remove some metal from the "ribs" on the extension housing, you'll see where they are very tight around the crossmember brackets on the chassis.
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