S2 rear sagging to drivers side
Discussion
Guys
Please can someone give me some advice on the best kit needed and place to buy some springsto sort out my '89 S2, as it is suffering from the rear springs looking like they have had better days. The car when parked from behind leans to the drivers side, so I am guessing the springs need replacing, as I know these are the original springs.
I have read through the links and the info is vey good, but I am not looking to go track racing or constantly adjusting the ride feel/ height, I basically want to replace the springs as is and have standard ride etc.
I have lookd thorugh Merlin motorsport parts catalogue and can see you can buy springs all different sizes and LBS, does anyone know what springs are required, whats the best way to go.......
Any help would be greatly appreciated, as always.
Thanks
Dan
TVR S2 Suffolk
Please can someone give me some advice on the best kit needed and place to buy some springsto sort out my '89 S2, as it is suffering from the rear springs looking like they have had better days. The car when parked from behind leans to the drivers side, so I am guessing the springs need replacing, as I know these are the original springs.
I have read through the links and the info is vey good, but I am not looking to go track racing or constantly adjusting the ride feel/ height, I basically want to replace the springs as is and have standard ride etc.
I have lookd thorugh Merlin motorsport parts catalogue and can see you can buy springs all different sizes and LBS, does anyone know what springs are required, whats the best way to go.......
Any help would be greatly appreciated, as always.
Thanks
Dan
TVR S2 Suffolk
phillpot said:
Hi, think most would work on the principle that if the springs have "had it" the shockers can't be far behind, replace complete assemblies?
Although this is not want you want to hear financially, I agree with Mike. I had the same problem where the car was low on the drivers side (even before I got into the car). The springs had weakened, but the dampers were also poor. You could feel the suspension blowing through the damping on big bumps and it was easy to break traction as well. I didn't realise how bad they were until I changed the units. The other problem is that dampers get used to being in one position at rest and changing springs (and therefore ride height) can hasten the demise of worn units.The original Koni dampers are no longer available, I think.
What mileage has yours done? I assume that you haven't got adjustable units on the car already, that could be tweaked.
Guys
Thanks for that, yes I agree probably its best to change springs and dampers at same time on the rear, my S2 have done about 60k.
The car passes MOT each year so I think the bushes mounts/ trailing arm etc are all good, but as per previous comments it leans to one side even with no one in car and has done for some time. I have just had the car in my garage over the winter and been replaicng the SAAB Brake servo/ cylinder and remote fluid container with the combined ford fiesta servo and brake cylinder suggested in other links in this forum , so thought I would try and sort out all the things that have been niggling me for a while now.
The dampers are not adjustable, they are the old original ones.
Therefore on the assumption the rear needs new dampers and springs, can anyone suggest a good place to buy replacements and the best ones to get, bearing in mind cost and the fact I dont need for racing or track day, although I do love driving around the country lanes !!!
Thanks for that, yes I agree probably its best to change springs and dampers at same time on the rear, my S2 have done about 60k.
The car passes MOT each year so I think the bushes mounts/ trailing arm etc are all good, but as per previous comments it leans to one side even with no one in car and has done for some time. I have just had the car in my garage over the winter and been replaicng the SAAB Brake servo/ cylinder and remote fluid container with the combined ford fiesta servo and brake cylinder suggested in other links in this forum , so thought I would try and sort out all the things that have been niggling me for a while now.
The dampers are not adjustable, they are the old original ones.
Therefore on the assumption the rear needs new dampers and springs, can anyone suggest a good place to buy replacements and the best ones to get, bearing in mind cost and the fact I dont need for racing or track day, although I do love driving around the country lanes !!!
Suggest you check whether it is the body sitting unevenly on the chassis, or the chassis sitting unevenly. The bodies were never symmetrical and level in the first place and can get worse over time anyway.
You really need to be on flat level ground before you can judge whether the chassis is level, and the ordinary MK1 eyeball isn't a good way to tell whether it's flat since you can't really see a difference of an inch over the length of the car but that is a lot of difference when you're measuring ride height.
Bear in mind that the chassis is (supposed to be) torsionally stiff and if it seems to be low at one corner and you believe the suspension is causing that, the effect you would expect to see is that the whole car has twisted diagonally and the opposite corner has come up. If it's really only low at one corner, either you're seeing the body move relative to the chassis (which is not a suspension problem), or the chassis is dangerously compromised.
You really need to be on flat level ground before you can judge whether the chassis is level, and the ordinary MK1 eyeball isn't a good way to tell whether it's flat since you can't really see a difference of an inch over the length of the car but that is a lot of difference when you're measuring ride height.
Bear in mind that the chassis is (supposed to be) torsionally stiff and if it seems to be low at one corner and you believe the suspension is causing that, the effect you would expect to see is that the whole car has twisted diagonally and the opposite corner has come up. If it's really only low at one corner, either you're seeing the body move relative to the chassis (which is not a suspension problem), or the chassis is dangerously compromised.
GreenV8S said:
Suggest you check whether it is the body sitting unevenly on the chassis, or the chassis sitting unevenly. The bodies were never symmetrical and level in the first place and can get worse over time anyway.
You really need to be on flat level ground before you can judge whether the chassis is level, and the ordinary MK1 eyeball isn't a good way to tell whether it's flat since you can't really see a difference of an inch over the length of the car but that is a lot of difference when you're measuring ride height.
Bear in mind that the chassis is (supposed to be) torsionally stiff and if it seems to be low at one corner and you believe the suspension is causing that, the effect you would expect to see is that the whole car has twisted diagonally and the opposite corner has come up. If it's really only low at one corner, either you're seeing the body move relative to the chassis (which is not a suspension problem), or the chassis is dangerously compromised.
I hope its just a case of worn dampers/springs but as the last sentence above i would thoroughly check the trailing arms/ bushes and the rear chassis points where they connect.You really need to be on flat level ground before you can judge whether the chassis is level, and the ordinary MK1 eyeball isn't a good way to tell whether it's flat since you can't really see a difference of an inch over the length of the car but that is a lot of difference when you're measuring ride height.
Bear in mind that the chassis is (supposed to be) torsionally stiff and if it seems to be low at one corner and you believe the suspension is causing that, the effect you would expect to see is that the whole car has twisted diagonally and the opposite corner has come up. If it's really only low at one corner, either you're seeing the body move relative to the chassis (which is not a suspension problem), or the chassis is dangerously compromised.
Because it recently passed an mot is no indication of chassis condition.
Best way would be to jack the car up and remove the rear wheels, remove the rear shocks and check the movement of the trailing arms.
Edited by TJC46 on Friday 25th January 20:04
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