Brake cylinder removal help
Discussion
Are the heads rusted?
I have in similar situations used a cheap 6 sided socket out the bottom of the toolbox and ground it down a little so there is no taper going into the socket - the newly ground surface sits flat against the backplate. This gives as good a grip on the head that you can get. A 6 sided socket is not as reliant on the bolt head corners as a 'normal' star type socket.
Hope this makes some sense.
I have in similar situations used a cheap 6 sided socket out the bottom of the toolbox and ground it down a little so there is no taper going into the socket - the newly ground surface sits flat against the backplate. This gives as good a grip on the head that you can get. A 6 sided socket is not as reliant on the bolt head corners as a 'normal' star type socket.
Hope this makes some sense.
when i did mine i did it from the back they are bolts so
have to go in from the back just need a small socket, i had to
change the fitting on the brake end of the brake pipe as the new one was metric
but when they did it i got them to put the old fitting on the pipe
end as mine was imperial that end.
hope this is some help
Barry
have to go in from the back just need a small socket, i had to
change the fitting on the brake end of the brake pipe as the new one was metric
but when they did it i got them to put the old fitting on the pipe
end as mine was imperial that end.
hope this is some help
Barry
Thanks for the tips gents. I found an old and cheap 10mm socket with thin walls that does the job on the nuts under the bleed nipple but I'm now having trouble with the brake pipe ends.
None of my metric or imperial spanners seem to fit well enough to apply enough pressure to release the union. An 11mm spanner fits best but it has slipped once and I don't want to run the risk of rounding by trying again.
Is there a special size for these unions?
Cheers,
Steve
None of my metric or imperial spanners seem to fit well enough to apply enough pressure to release the union. An 11mm spanner fits best but it has slipped once and I don't want to run the risk of rounding by trying again.
Is there a special size for these unions?
Cheers,
Steve
Bolt heads are very close to the wheel cylinder, you'll need a thin wall 10mm socket (generally the better quality brands) or an old spare one you can grind down.
it on if you have to !

Ok too late with that bit
Pipe unions..... are you using an open end spanner or do you have a split ring spanner?
If really tight I'd cut through, then you can use a ring spanner or socket (or throw away if you're having new wheel cylinder) and make up a new pipe with nice new unions.
it on if you have to !Ok too late with that bit

Pipe unions..... are you using an open end spanner or do you have a split ring spanner?
If really tight I'd cut through, then you can use a ring spanner or socket (or throw away if you're having new wheel cylinder) and make up a new pipe with nice new unions.
Edited by phillpot on Monday 20th August 21:41
I've been using an open-end spanner. I'm going to drop into the garage tomorrow and see if I can borrow one that fits from my mate.
I wasn't thinking of making up new pipe, if at all possible, just want to get back on the road as I've been off it for a month because of other problems.
I wasn't thinking of making up new pipe, if at all possible, just want to get back on the road as I've been off it for a month because of other problems.
5 quid and you've got it next time you need it..... flare spanner
might be 10mm if brake pipes aren't original
......
might be 10mm if brake pipes aren't original

Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


