Steering rack end?
Discussion
Good and bad news at the weekend:
THE GOOD: my S3C passed its MOT (its first in my ownership). Also took the opportunity to have a better look at the chassis than I got when I bought it and all is as solid as originally thought.
THE BAD: got an advisory on play in the steering rack ends (NOT the track rod ends, that would be too simple! - the joints at the inner end of the track rods). Been searching everywhere and have not been able to locate any.
Some resource on here indicates the rack is modified Chevette with the track rods and ends being Cortina Mk3, but can't find any Cortina Mk3 track rods anywhere. All the TVR parts suppliers on line don't seem to go as far back as the S3, which isn't a help.
Anybody able to confirm (or deny) the Cortina Mk3 information? Better still anybody able to point me to where I might get some?
Found some threads on steering rack refurbishment but wasn't clear whether the play experienced (and then cured) was the rack as opposed to the ends.
Many thanks in advance.
THE GOOD: my S3C passed its MOT (its first in my ownership). Also took the opportunity to have a better look at the chassis than I got when I bought it and all is as solid as originally thought.
THE BAD: got an advisory on play in the steering rack ends (NOT the track rod ends, that would be too simple! - the joints at the inner end of the track rods). Been searching everywhere and have not been able to locate any.
Some resource on here indicates the rack is modified Chevette with the track rods and ends being Cortina Mk3, but can't find any Cortina Mk3 track rods anywhere. All the TVR parts suppliers on line don't seem to go as far back as the S3, which isn't a help.
Anybody able to confirm (or deny) the Cortina Mk3 information? Better still anybody able to point me to where I might get some?
Found some threads on steering rack refurbishment but wasn't clear whether the play experienced (and then cured) was the rack as opposed to the ends.
Many thanks in advance.
It would be a good idea to pull back the gaiter on the offending end and see what the general condition of the rack is like, if its dry of lubrication and / or rusty it’s probably time for a professional rebuild. That would sort out the play and I don’t think it’s too expensive. There’ll no doubt be recommendations for rack re-conditioners on here soon.
My wifes car has had slight play in the inner joints for the last 60k and its never got any worse, the MOT man says it’s not worth an advisory in his opinion.
Rob.
My wifes car has had slight play in the inner joints for the last 60k and its never got any worse, the MOT man says it’s not worth an advisory in his opinion.
Rob.
All the chim / griff boys swear by Kiley Clinton in Birmingham - they will courier your rack I think give them a call.
http://www.steering-racks.co.uk/
http://www.steering-racks.co.uk/
Long time since I've delved that far into a steering rack but I believe some have shims under the big nut holding the track rod on or possibly a lock nut to adjust out minor amounts of play?
Obviously if anything is badly worn, corroded or damaged more serious repairs may be required.
Barkychoc said:
All the chim / griff boys swear by Kiley Clinton in Birmingham - they will courier your rack I think give them a call.
http://www.steering-racks.co.uk/
They did my S2 rack via Exactly TVR Coventry first class job and quickhttp://www.steering-racks.co.uk/
Gerald-TVR said:
Barkychoc said:
All the chim / griff boys swear by Kiley Clinton in Birmingham - they will courier your rack I think give them a call.
http://www.steering-racks.co.uk/
They did my S2 rack via Exactly TVR Coventry first class job and quickhttp://www.steering-racks.co.uk/
Very quick turn around and a good price too. £75+VAT plus £11 p&p for mine
I had the same problem with my S3C : Some play in the inner bal joint, passenger side.
I removed the rack from the car. The job is really easy, there is enough space.
The "nut" is hold in place by a little crimp. There is no pin. It's easy to remove with a pipe wrench.
Inside, there is a plastic cup and a spring.
I removes the grease and the spring to adjust the ball play. Tightening the "nut" a little bit more was enough to tighten the driver side, but for the passenger side, I have to sand the "nut".
After putting the spring back in place, and greasing, I just have to weld a point to replace the crimp.
I'm waiting for new gaiters and ball joints to put the rack back in place. Job done
I removed the rack from the car. The job is really easy, there is enough space.
The "nut" is hold in place by a little crimp. There is no pin. It's easy to remove with a pipe wrench.
Inside, there is a plastic cup and a spring.
I removes the grease and the spring to adjust the ball play. Tightening the "nut" a little bit more was enough to tighten the driver side, but for the passenger side, I have to sand the "nut".
After putting the spring back in place, and greasing, I just have to weld a point to replace the crimp.
I'm waiting for new gaiters and ball joints to put the rack back in place. Job done
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