Received master cylinder from Power Track .. a few questions

[markbigears]

Hi guys, a few questions if I may. Firstly, should the master cylinder come with a new push rod? All the photos i've seen show a new one fitted through the rubber seal, but mine didn't? Can someone confirm. Also, although Power Track are very helpful, I thought the part was a genuine Girling part. It's not, it made under license from TRW. If i knew this i'd have ordered from www.island-4x4.co.uk for £16.66 instead of £60 I shelled out! ah well, live and learn.
Secondly, what tool do i need to extract the clevis pin from the fork in the footwell? and lastly, do i need to purchase
an EZ-Bleed kit to bleed the system? (another £20). I've got my dot 4, my silkaflex and my cylinder, do I need anything else before I get stuck in? Thanks guys, Mark

[tvrgit]

markbigears said:

Hi guys, a few questions if I may. Firstly, should the master cylinder come with a new push rod? All the photos i've seen show a new one fitted through the rubber seal, but mine didn't? Can someone confirm. Also, although Power Track are very helpful, I thought the part was a genuine Girling part. It's not, it made under license from TRW. If i knew this i'd have ordered from www.island-4x4.co.uk for £16.66 instead of £60 I shelled out! ah well, live and learn.
Secondly, what tool do i need to extract the clevis pin from the fork in the footwell? and lastly, do i need to purchase
an EZ-Bleed kit to bleed the system? (another £20). I've got my dot 4, my silkaflex and my cylinder, do I need anything else before I get stuck in? Thanks guys, Mark

I would expect the push rod to be included normally, but technically, I suppose it's not really part of the master cylinder, if a retailer wants to be stingy.

The clevis in will be held in with a split pin or an R-clip. If it's a split pin, just straighten the bent-over bits as best you can and it should pull out with pliers. An R-clip should just pull out. Then the clevis pin itself should be free to push through the pedal and pushrod, again with the help of pliers if necessary.

Personally, I wouldn't waste my money on one of those pressurised EZ-bleed kits - I bought one years ago and it has never worked properly on any car I've tried it on. I've also got a vacuum pump and that has its drawbacks as well. I had a cheapo "hose with a non-return valve on the end" that was good, but I seem to have lost that. IMHO there's no better way than the old two-man "pump the pedal and turn the nipple" method - no danger of turning seals inside-out and you can see exactly what you're doing.