engine lifting points

[mhibbins]

I've finally got around to fixing my gearbox 4th gear synchro problem. I've got the bonnet, the rad and the exhaust off so am well on the way.

Is there any purpose made lifting points on the engine or is it just a case of wrapping a couple of slings under the engine and lifting? Any advice from anyone who has taken out their engine and gearbox in one would be very welcome indeed.

Thanks,

Mark

[shpub]

The hoist - you are going to use one arn't you - noarmally comes with some plates that bolt omnto the engine front and back using the earth mounting points or similar largish threaded holes.

Best advice I can give is get 2-3 people with you so they can maneouvre the engine while one controls the hoist. It might (?) be easy jacking the back up so that the chassis is at a slight angle.

be prepared for that cable that you didn't remove!

steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

[mhibbins]

quote:The hoist - you are going to use one arn't you - noarmally comes with some plates that bolt omnto the engine front and back using the earth mounting points or similar largish threaded holes.

The hoist I have didn't come with any such plates, just a hook. I thought the idea was to either attach straps to the engine using some ready fitted points that I couldn't see yet (haven't taken off all the ancillaries) or to sling the straps under the engine. Is neither of these a possibility or do I need to buy some mounting plates from somewhere (ford I guess)?

quote:Best advice I can give is get 2-3 people with you so they can maneouvre the engine while one controls the hoist.

Oh, manpower may be a problem at the moment. I did a fwd MG1300 engine a while ago on my own, is this going to be significantly more difficult. Granted I have to clear the gearbox but I assumed that taking it steady would do the trick.

quote:It might (?) be easy jacking the back up so that the chassis is at a slight angle.

As luck would have it that's the position it's in right now. The back wheels are on ramps (strapped down) and the front is supported by axle stands so that I could get the exhaust off and get to the gearbox mount points.



Should I carry on in this position so I have access to the underside or should I take it off the axle stands and roll it off the ramps for safety?

quote:be prepared for that cable that you didn't remove!

Thanks for the advice.

Mark

>> Edited by mhibbins on Tuesday 4th June 09:46

[Dave_H]

Ooo.. that picture brings back memories - good luck Mark!

[shpub]

I've done the Wedge engine several times - now down to 2 hours as everything is on wing nuts I usually do it down at Tower View and borrow their ramp etc which does help a lot.

Use plates and chains as straps place all the weight onto the the sump which will probably crack or bend. You could look at the engine mounts. Thinking about it the plates were chained to the hoist and bolted on. Quarter inch thick steel IIRC.

I wouldn't use the hook but get some big shackles that you can do up so things don't slip. Hooks are Ok but shackles are safer.

As for jacking up more, I would chock the front wheels so that they can't move and see how it goes. Take it easy and with more man power you can look and see what is going on.

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

Steve

[mhibbins]

Thanks again for the advice Steve,

Mark

[shpub]

Just went through some piccies last night and saw a Ford V6 coming out using the engine mountings with chains wrapped around and bolted through the links with big washers.

Steve

[mhibbins]

The haynes manual suggests wrapping lifting chains or ropes around the exaust manifolds.

I think I'm going to lift using the engine mounts and pass the straps through the manifolds to stop the engine tilting so much as a result of using lifting points on the bottom of the engine. Hope this weekend is rain free.