Chassis restoration
Chassis restoration
Author
Discussion

Bagpus

Original Poster:

49 posts

195 months

Wednesday 7th March 2012
quotequote all
Having found a small hole on the outrigger, the time has come to do a partial bodylift on my S2. All the bolts have undone with the exception of the seatbelt anchor bolts which go through the body and onto the outriggers- these have sheared on both sides.
Just wondered if anyone has had a similar issue and is it likely I will be able to raise the body or will I have to drill the remains out before the lift? I can't determine how thick the fibreglass of the body is at this point.

Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated.

Many thanks



Nigel

Donnysoutherner

301 posts

201 months

Thursday 8th March 2012
quotequote all
Hi, Didn't happen to me but I suggest you try to do the lift and see how it goes, once the body is totally free of bolts there should be a bit of wiggle room.

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Thursday 8th March 2012
quotequote all

Depends where they've snapped off, if it's just the head I think you'll have trouble getting the body to clear the remains of the bolt, it's quite a snug fit.

Bit late now but I used some "freeze spray" when I did mine (were V tight) as its impossible to safely get any heat on them to ease them out.

magpies

5,203 posts

211 months

Thursday 8th March 2012
quotequote all
mine snapped near the captive nut and did not impede the lift.

However I've done my back in and so the rebuild has stopped. May need to give someone some money to finish it frown

Bagpus

Original Poster:

49 posts

195 months

Saturday 24th March 2012
quotequote all
Hi there, I have drilled out the offending bolts and think all the other bolts have been taken out. The problem is that the front can be lifted but the rear steadfastly refuses to budge.... it almost seems as though something is connected.

Bolts removed are as follows

4 in the front footwell
1 holding the handbrake
2 holding the seatbelt storks
2 holding inner bracket on floor just behind above
2 (drilled out) seatbelt fixing which goes through body into outrigger
2 holding inertia reel to chassis bracket in wheelarch
2 holding the top part of the seatbelt
2 In the spare wheel well

Have I missed some bolts or is there a special technique? Also, what are the best places to jack the body?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Regards


Nigel



Steve H

1,172 posts

253 months

Saturday 24th March 2012
quotequote all
Hi, I am no expert and havent done my own lift yet but I am sure I have read that you have to disconnect the fuel tank,,, this may be the reason the rear wont shift

Steve

Bagpus

Original Poster:

49 posts

195 months

Saturday 24th March 2012
quotequote all
Hi Steve,

Yes, you are correct and I forgot to say I have undone the jubilee clip which holds the pipe to the large flexible hose so wouldn't have thought it is a problem, but maybe it is.

Regards


Nigel

tvrgit

8,489 posts

281 months

Saturday 24th March 2012
quotequote all
Bagpus said:
Hi Steve,

Yes, you are correct and I forgot to say I have undone the jubilee clip which holds the pipe to the large flexible hose so wouldn't have thought it is a problem, but maybe it is.

Regards


Nigel
Advice deleted as obviously of no interest to the OP whatsoever.


Edited by tvrgit on Saturday 24th March 22:41

mep12345

2,061 posts

230 months

Saturday 24th March 2012
quotequote all
mine also caught on the boot strut securing bolt. see my site where there is quite a photo story for a partial and full bodylift, albeit for an S3

HTH

Mark

spludge

327 posts

248 months

Saturday 24th March 2012
quotequote all
There's a couple of bolts located beneath the seatbelt reels that are usually covered by carpet. They fix the bodywork to the bracket that holds the reel, did you get them?

K

glenrobbo

40,488 posts

179 months

Saturday 24th March 2012
quotequote all
Bagpus said:
Hi there, I have drilled out the offending bolts and think all the other bolts have been taken out. The problem is that the front can be lifted but the rear steadfastly refuses to budge.... it almost seems as though something is connected

Have I missed some bolts or is there a special technique? Also, what are the best places to jack the body?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Regards


Nigel
Hi Nigel, have you cleared all the small stones & gravel from between the outriggers and the body tub each side of the car? I remember an earlier post where this was causing the body to jam tight when attempting the lift. A thin scraper should clear it all. HTH,
Glen.

Bagpus

Original Poster:

49 posts

195 months

Saturday 24th March 2012
quotequote all
Mark,Ken and Glen, thanks for your responses- will check them out and let you know.

Many thanks


Nigel

Bagpus

Original Poster:

49 posts

195 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
quotequote all
Turns out I had missed the bolts below the seat belts and carpet and the body is now free. Initial inspection shows the front has rotted in the usual places but on the whole it doesn't seem too bad.
Will post some pictures and thanks again to everyone for their help and suggestions.

Nigel

B16JUS

2,386 posts

266 months

Wednesday 28th March 2012
quotequote all
get some pics up !

Dave_M

5,486 posts

253 months

Wednesday 28th March 2012
quotequote all
Barkychoc kindly looked at mine in the winter but found significant damage to an outrigger.

I had this cut off in situ and replaced, no need to lift the body. The old part is currently at PPC in Melton if you come that way they would show you.

smile

Bagpus

Original Poster:

49 posts

195 months

Tuesday 5th June 2012
quotequote all
Bit of an update. The body lifted easily when I undid all the bolts! Thanks to everyone who suggested reasons why it wouldn't move.
Once up in the air the extent of the rust was probably pretty typical


The seatbelt mounts were in a bad way and the outrigger tubing was rusted through so that was all replaced. I sleeved the tubing leaving a 5mm gap and then welded it all in place.


Once the welds were ground down it was painted with POR15 and then POR15 hardnose (complete with a run), the main aim being to stop the tinworm returning.



Next step is to paint and fit the petrol tank refit the body.