Discussion
I know some very good info and drawings have been posted but search is still down.
So, doors came off today, hinge bolts very tight but came out ok once loosened, but my question is do the doors just sit on the sill? there is nothing between them, and obvious scratch marks (not visible with door on) where they rub.
Should the bit the bolt goes through protrude enough to take the weight and hold the door up a little? One nearly does, the other is way up inside the door.
Noticed VW Audi stamped on the metal bit attached to the window that bolts to the lifting mechanism, TVR glass in a VW bracket or VW window ?
So, doors came off today, hinge bolts very tight but came out ok once loosened, but my question is do the doors just sit on the sill? there is nothing between them, and obvious scratch marks (not visible with door on) where they rub.
Should the bit the bolt goes through protrude enough to take the weight and hold the door up a little? One nearly does, the other is way up inside the door.
Noticed VW Audi stamped on the metal bit attached to the window that bolts to the lifting mechanism, TVR glass in a VW bracket or VW window ?
Just done my hinges too. There was no packing on mine either but i did put a washer btween. Did the top hinge up first to take the weight, effectively the door on mine is hanging off the top hinge to prevent it scraping on the bottom. If anyone knows better, let me know.
The other thing is to make sure the hinge is actually the right way up. One side is longer than the other, although you might not notice it if you didn't look carefully.
The other thing is to make sure the hinge is actually the right way up. One side is longer than the other, although you might not notice it if you didn't look carefully.
Hi Mike, I did my doors last winter. The doors are supported on the flat portion of the protruding nylon bush which just gives enougth clearance. Mine were well worn down and I thought about shimming them up but used new bushes in the end. From memory it may be possible to fit the steel carrier upside down as if I recall it is not symetrical. Hope this makes sense.
Ask the Guru!!!!
It took me ages to get my head around the structure of the hinges despite Adrian Venn explaining in detail, but as soon as I extracted the complete set up froma b
d body tub all became clear
I have a detailed pdf/jpg file explaining the complete set up but the image upload aint working. If any one (except phillpot as I have sent him an email) wants a copy send me a PM
Note the length of the tread on the TOP bolt ONLY, there is no void above and if the thread length isn’t limited this will cause damage. The end of the un-threaded part of the bolt locks against the bobbin.
You need to check out the OD/ID of the bush, late versions are 19mm across and M10 and 15mm and M8 and the height of the door in relation to the shell is set by the shoulder of the bottom nylon bush. Adrian Venn suggests “deeper (2mm) on the shoulder and then shim the plate with penny washers”. Check the shunt up and down to work out an approx first....but the hinge plate can be dressed to take out any play. You NEED 6 full threads engagement in any nut/bolt assembly and the lockout on the taper of the shank against the bobbin.
It took me ages to get my head around the structure of the hinges despite Adrian Venn explaining in detail, but as soon as I extracted the complete set up froma b
d body tub all became clearI have a detailed pdf/jpg file explaining the complete set up but the image upload aint working. If any one (except phillpot as I have sent him an email) wants a copy send me a PM
Note the length of the tread on the TOP bolt ONLY, there is no void above and if the thread length isn’t limited this will cause damage. The end of the un-threaded part of the bolt locks against the bobbin.
You need to check out the OD/ID of the bush, late versions are 19mm across and M10 and 15mm and M8 and the height of the door in relation to the shell is set by the shoulder of the bottom nylon bush. Adrian Venn suggests “deeper (2mm) on the shoulder and then shim the plate with penny washers”. Check the shunt up and down to work out an approx first....but the hinge plate can be dressed to take out any play. You NEED 6 full threads engagement in any nut/bolt assembly and the lockout on the taper of the shank against the bobbin.
S2Andy said:
Yes thats the one . I bought mine from there and I hope that someway that excellent company can continue.
Thanks but you've confused me now!These guys are still going aren't they? Isn't it TVR carpartsthat are in trouble?
Gerald-TVR said:
It took me ages to get my head around the structure of the hinges despite Adrian Venn explaining in detail
Lovely guy, very helpful but sometimes the more he explains things the more he confuses me!!! 
Edited by phillpot on Friday 24th February 08:49
phillpot said:
S2Andy said:
Yes thats the one . I bought mine from there and I hope that someway that excellent company can continue.
Thanks but you've confused me now!These guys are still going aren't they? Isn't it TVR carpartsthat are in trouble?
Gerald-TVR said:
It took me ages to get my head around the structure of the hinges despite Adrian Venn explaining in detail
Lovely guy, very helpful but sometimes the more he explains things the more he confuses me!!! Edited by phillpot on Friday 24th February 08:49
Adrian@
Hi Guys, I did my sagging doors and Hinges last year. I renewed the nylon bushes and on the bottom hinges I cut the flats off two new bushes and used them to shim up the doors. Worked a treat, lifted the doors and allowed me to profile them to the body. Once aligned it was just a matter of adjusting the striker plate.
Tom
Tom
phillpot said:
Should the bit the bolt goes through protrude enough to take the weight and hold the door up a little? One nearly does, the other is way up inside the door.[
Well, these are the bits,(and Normans excellent drawing) and indeed the one "top hat" thingy was upside down!
Left hand bolt is a top one, same length shank but shorter thread.
Plan is to have a "test re-fit" tomorrow and get best fit I can, and then there shouldn't be too much messing around (and chances to damage paint) when it comes back from paintshop!
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