New bonnet or repair???HELP
Discussion
Hi all,
I've just had the bonnet of my S3 cemented and bricked by the local council! Some idiot from their maintenance dept decided to replace the 'airbrick' at the back of the garage from the outside...knocked through the old brick, chipped out the cement, 'dropped' another airbrick through and then liberally applied cement around the edges (and loads inside onto my pride and joy)!
My plea for help is:
Can gouges out of the bonnet (its gone down to a yellow leyer) be filled and painted in or will it require a new bonnet?
If new bonnet, any idea how much
(I'm not paying by the way!)
Many thanks
Mike
PS Any tips on fixing a duff fuel tank sender (ie how do I get to it)
PPS Still go out with the hood down over the weekend...fantastic!
I've just had the bonnet of my S3 cemented and bricked by the local council! Some idiot from their maintenance dept decided to replace the 'airbrick' at the back of the garage from the outside...knocked through the old brick, chipped out the cement, 'dropped' another airbrick through and then liberally applied cement around the edges (and loads inside onto my pride and joy)!
My plea for help is:
Can gouges out of the bonnet (its gone down to a yellow leyer) be filled and painted in or will it require a new bonnet?
If new bonnet, any idea how much
(I'm not paying by the way!)
Many thanks
Mike
PS Any tips on fixing a duff fuel tank sender (ie how do I get to it)
PPS Still go out with the hood down over the weekend...fantastic!
Sorry to hear that.
Might be worth trying to get a new bonnet out of it, then you could ask to keep your old one and sell it on, might make a little bit of money out of it, probably have to get some quotes, TVR Bodyshop apparently will quotes for things like this, just send them some photos.
Might be worth trying to get a new bonnet out of it, then you could ask to keep your old one and sell it on, might make a little bit of money out of it, probably have to get some quotes, TVR Bodyshop apparently will quotes for things like this, just send them some photos.
Fuel Gauge Sender
I have had similar problems, so I will brief you on my efforts so far.
First and most important, buy yourself one of those green plastic fuel cans and start carrying a one gallon emergency supply. You would not want to leave the car unattended after running out of fuel and you will feel a prat calling out the AA.
Sender is accessible after removing near side rear wheel. Try removing the electrical spade connections and joining them together using a 3 amp car fuse. Switch on the car ignition momentarily (do not start the car!) and watch the fuel gauge - you should get movement of the needle to read Full.
If there is no movement at the gauge check the earthing point that is on the chassis next to the tank right in front of you as you look at the sender. Having cleaned the earth point and all connections try the ignition test again. If still no joy it may be the gauge itself that is faulty and not the sender.
This is a good time to determine the sender fixings used by your car as there are two sorts used. Some are held in place by series of small nuts & bolts, some have a locking ring that rotates and clamps down sender and rubber gasket. Basic question then becomes do you have a series of small bolts around the circumference or not. Mine is an S3 and does not and uses the rotating clamping ring design.
You will need to know this so that you can order from your local TVR garage, a replacement gasket (NB. and perhaps a new clamping ring as the old one is often bent when removing) This is best done before attempting removal of sender.
If the sender is determined to be faulty, the next step is to remove it from the tank. Remember that you are messing about with petrol - read Steve Heath's bible for his recommendations when working in this area - no naked flames or heat sources, no smoking, good ventilation, fire extinguisher handy etc. Please note that nearly empty fuel tanks are more dangerous than full ones!
Try to arrange to be running out on a Friday so that you have got an empty tank for the weekend. If you drive down to near empty you will notice the car becoming hesitant, it does not suddenly cut out ( well mine doesn't anyway) The sender is located half way up the end of the tank, so it can safely be removed if the tank is vitually empty.
Removing the sender will not help you much as there is very little to see. Full replacement seems to be the only option, but someone on here has suggested that they are no-longer available? Can anyone confirm this?
The sender in my car looked fine, gave good readings on a meter when operated by hand off the car. Refitted it and nothing worked? However on occasions a very bumpy road makes it briefly work again. I intend therefore to strip mine out again and try to dismantle the electrical parts looking for a dry soldered joint or something similar. I will keep you posted on any success.
I have had similar problems, so I will brief you on my efforts so far.
First and most important, buy yourself one of those green plastic fuel cans and start carrying a one gallon emergency supply. You would not want to leave the car unattended after running out of fuel and you will feel a prat calling out the AA.
Sender is accessible after removing near side rear wheel. Try removing the electrical spade connections and joining them together using a 3 amp car fuse. Switch on the car ignition momentarily (do not start the car!) and watch the fuel gauge - you should get movement of the needle to read Full.
If there is no movement at the gauge check the earthing point that is on the chassis next to the tank right in front of you as you look at the sender. Having cleaned the earth point and all connections try the ignition test again. If still no joy it may be the gauge itself that is faulty and not the sender.
This is a good time to determine the sender fixings used by your car as there are two sorts used. Some are held in place by series of small nuts & bolts, some have a locking ring that rotates and clamps down sender and rubber gasket. Basic question then becomes do you have a series of small bolts around the circumference or not. Mine is an S3 and does not and uses the rotating clamping ring design.
You will need to know this so that you can order from your local TVR garage, a replacement gasket (NB. and perhaps a new clamping ring as the old one is often bent when removing) This is best done before attempting removal of sender.
If the sender is determined to be faulty, the next step is to remove it from the tank. Remember that you are messing about with petrol - read Steve Heath's bible for his recommendations when working in this area - no naked flames or heat sources, no smoking, good ventilation, fire extinguisher handy etc. Please note that nearly empty fuel tanks are more dangerous than full ones!
Try to arrange to be running out on a Friday so that you have got an empty tank for the weekend. If you drive down to near empty you will notice the car becoming hesitant, it does not suddenly cut out ( well mine doesn't anyway) The sender is located half way up the end of the tank, so it can safely be removed if the tank is vitually empty.
Removing the sender will not help you much as there is very little to see. Full replacement seems to be the only option, but someone on here has suggested that they are no-longer available? Can anyone confirm this?
The sender in my car looked fine, gave good readings on a meter when operated by hand off the car. Refitted it and nothing worked? However on occasions a very bumpy road makes it briefly work again. I intend therefore to strip mine out again and try to dismantle the electrical parts looking for a dry soldered joint or something similar. I will keep you posted on any success.
MikeS3,
Your bonnet will definately repair to as good as new standard.
I would personally try and avoid replacing the bonnet at all costs as the original for your car will almost certainly be the best fit. I have seen replacement bonnets on a few S's and in the main they are never as good as the original. I have even heard of people building the wing / wheel arch up with fibreglass to get the shutline at the top of the arch to look even half reasonable!
Jas.
Your bonnet will definately repair to as good as new standard.
I would personally try and avoid replacing the bonnet at all costs as the original for your car will almost certainly be the best fit. I have seen replacement bonnets on a few S's and in the main they are never as good as the original. I have even heard of people building the wing / wheel arch up with fibreglass to get the shutline at the top of the arch to look even half reasonable!
Jas.
After my 'pirouette' got some lower bonnet damage with a hole punched in. Got pointed to Tom Horsburgh near Frensham (01428) 608255
Tom is good. Made a new section seamlessly & 100% paint match. Cost me c £500, knows how to adjust the bonnet hinges and gave me a jar of matched touch-up paint!
Recommended to go see him and chat & make up your own mind. Repairs & paints cars for a living, is a real enthusiast.
Tom is good. Made a new section seamlessly & 100% paint match. Cost me c £500, knows how to adjust the bonnet hinges and gave me a jar of matched touch-up paint!
Recommended to go see him and chat & make up your own mind. Repairs & paints cars for a living, is a real enthusiast.
Edited by PetrolTed on Friday 2nd February 12:31
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