Clutch
Author
Discussion

locust32

Original Poster:

42 posts

183 months

Sunday 1st January 2012
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On way back from steam rally yesterday in sunny Kent in our s3 when the clutch started to do strange things eek, first a slight judder then unable to get gears,turn the engine off put in first and start up again and al's fine till we stop again, the same again cant get gears! so stop the car and restart and al's fine but now we have a squeak from the clutch, so how easy is the gear box to get out.rolleyes

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Sunday 1st January 2012
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Not very easy at all ! Depending what facilities you have at your disposal you might consider engine out?

Plenty been written in the past (try search, ignore Steve Heath book) but its something like dizzy cap and n/s rocker cover off and maybe disconnect top hose to allow engine to lean back further and with a lot of jiggling and tutting it may come out.
Grinding a bit off the "webs" on the alloy tail housing will help get it past the cross member brackets when you come to put it back in.

Good Luck wink

v8s4me

7,275 posts

248 months

Sunday 1st January 2012
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Same problem/solution maybe as this post?

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

mep12345

2,061 posts

230 months

Sunday 1st January 2012
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Full method I used for gearbox out and back in is here

Contrary to many opinions on the S3 (not the S1 or S2 due to chassis differences) it can be done with the engine in place but grinding some of the webs off the gearbox as Mike (Philpot) above suggests will help, for me it wasn't necessary.

As for how difficult, the worst part (if you don't have a ramp) is getting the car high enough once the gearbox is dropped to move it out of the way, but if just changing a clutch this should not be necessary.

I would also suggest that while you have the box off then change the spigot bearing as well they cost peanuts and if it goes shortly after replacing the gearbox you'll have to repeat the full job again.

If you are handy with the tools I'd plan on a full weekends hard graft, longer if less experienced and I reckon a garage would take most of a full day.

HTH

Mark

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Sunday 1st January 2012
quotequote all
mep12345 said:
I would also suggest that while you have the box off then change the spigot bearing as well they cost peanuts and if it goes shortly after replacing the gearbox you'll have to repeat the full job again.
My version of a bearing removal tool (I take no credit, it's blatantly copied from pictures posted by others) with a larger diameter bearing from an older V6 still on it.



Mines been in and out three times now (don't ask) and personally I prefer axle stands, I can do it on my own that way, should you have access to a lift I'd guess it takes at least two, maybe three to lift it up above head height?

locust32

Original Poster:

42 posts

183 months

Sunday 1st January 2012
quotequote all
Many thanks for the advice, will give it a good look at tomorrow and try and see what is happening, thanks.

DeadSpider

416 posts

213 months

Monday 2nd January 2012
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sorry to hear your having trouble with your clutch,

I would check all of the hydraulics first off .

But if you do need to take the gearbox out see the link below mep 12345 paved the way. Mine was well past its wear limit.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Good luck

locust32

Original Poster:

42 posts

183 months

Monday 2nd January 2012
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Well confused now! just checked the car and all is ok, all working as should so went for a twenty minuite drive and can't see anything wrong? she gona wait till I'm in the middle of nowhere and let go on melaughrolleyes

GreenV8S

31,017 posts

313 months

Monday 2nd January 2012
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locust32 said:
Well confused now! just checked the car and all is ok, all working as should so went for a twenty minuite drive and can't see anything wrong? she gona wait till I'm in the middle of nowhere and let go on melaughrolleyes
Sounds like it's "just" the clutch not releasing fully, so as long as you know how to drive without using the clutch you will always be able to get home. (Since the clutch seems to be partially disengaging, I'd suggest you do your gear changes as if it was clutchless but do in fact also use the clutch, it reduces the scope for damage if your clutchless gear changes aren't perfect.

From the symptoms I'd suspect a hydraulic problem. If the clutch reservoir filled up to the level? Fluid nice and clean?

mep12345

2,061 posts

230 months

Tuesday 3rd January 2012
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GreenV8S said:
From the symptoms I'd suspect a hydraulic problem.
+1 from your description