Discussion
Looks like a good approach. The rod end may need building up with weld to get the shape right. Bit tedious but if you can get a really good ball and socket, and keep it lightly greased it would be worth it. make sure the hole in the centre is big enough to allow the rod to articulate enough, doesn't need a lot.
Adrian@ said:
With the the arm off the car, IMHO, If you C9 copper silicon bronze 968 TIG infill the arm, then tungsten cut the ball into the bronze, drill a hole straight through it you will in effect bronze bush the joint, no need for anything else. A@
Thanks for the info. Simple enough and a solution that can be re-done if I cock up. greymrj said:
Looks like a good approach. The rod end may need building up with weld to get the shape right. Bit tedious but if you can get a really good ball and socket, and keep it lightly greased it would be worth it. make sure the hole in the centre is big enough to allow the rod to articulate enough, doesn't need a lot.
From your photos, It doesn’t actually look like the angle of the rod in the arm changes at all, looks like the movement is at the cylinder end, see comparison of your photo. Reading back through your earlier comment, the rod actually goes through the little hole not the big one, mine must have slipped out and jammed in the big one, it sits quite nicely in the little hole. But agree positioning where the bigger hole is certainly looks like it would be a much more aligned option. Another stint tonight, front end all stripped off now. One sheared bolt, one brake hose had to be cut off and a few taper joints not splitting, but steady progress.
One thing I did buy which is an absolute godsend is a kneel mat from screwfix, only £6 or so but really saves the knees, if you haven’t got one, highly recommend.
One thing I did buy which is an absolute godsend is a kneel mat from screwfix, only £6 or so but really saves the knees, if you haven’t got one, highly recommend.
greymrj said:
OOOOh, that is a 'lightweight' chassis! I hope the
Outriggers shot, but rust not affected main chassis, and not seen anything of any concern at all on the main chassis yet, the paint and protection seems to have done its job. Will be able to get a good look when backs stripped off and I can spin it over. Going to make a start on the rear tonight, will have a good look at those mounts when stripped.
Kitchski said:
I trust you're getting it shot blasted?
Don’t know about that, might make loads of holes through the corrosion making more work and fill the chassis with sand increasing the weight. Bit of a clean with soapy water and a rub over with a scotch pad finished with a couple coats of white emulsion I have in the garage. Only kidding, yep, a good blasting to make sure everything is totally exposed and then put back to its former glory. There’s only one way to do something, the right way.
Edited by 88S1 on Saturday 10th August 14:13
This is a TVR bdisation using the cable clutch release arm (the larger end of the keyhole allows the end of the cable to go through, THEN it locates within the smaller part of the keyhole, it is pull action, WITH a cam gear adjuster at the pedal), on most of the Ford fluid clutch systems the arm has an indent and clasp clip to hold the push rod end to the lever arm. TVR 's part should locate through the smaller end of the 'keyhole' (wear allows it to pop past the convolutions into the larger end of the keyhole).
An OE Ford release arm as used on the TVR S. IMHO it needs to be a single hole after a suitable repair/additional nut/ bevelled something and as near to damn it,out to the end. (I have modified 30-40 cars over time and alignment was not deemed to be critical.
Here is the earlier TVR clutch system (as fitted to the early Tasmin) and it was unreliable (gear failure at the pedal end on the Fords), and horrid roller attachment on the TVR, and as much due to the HD clutch) and heavy in use WITH a floating outer cable (which could never be sealed from the engine bay fumes).
A@
An OE Ford release arm as used on the TVR S. IMHO it needs to be a single hole after a suitable repair/additional nut/ bevelled something and as near to damn it,out to the end. (I have modified 30-40 cars over time and alignment was not deemed to be critical.
Here is the earlier TVR clutch system (as fitted to the early Tasmin) and it was unreliable (gear failure at the pedal end on the Fords), and horrid roller attachment on the TVR, and as much due to the HD clutch) and heavy in use WITH a floating outer cable (which could never be sealed from the engine bay fumes).
A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Monday 12th August 14:29
TVR definitely 'designed' the arrangement to fit in the smaller hole, that was the easy thing to do and the modification at the end of the operating rod is to fit that.
But does that mean it was the 'right' or best arrangement! Almost certainly not.
As long as the rod can push on, and articulate with, the clutch lever and not fall out, that is what is needed.
The difference in geometry between the two holes isnt big enough to matter to leverage. Checking the angles I believe Phillpots mod is preferable, the angle to the lever is fine and the angle to the axis of the cylinder is better.
But does that mean it was the 'right' or best arrangement! Almost certainly not.
As long as the rod can push on, and articulate with, the clutch lever and not fall out, that is what is needed.
The difference in geometry between the two holes isnt big enough to matter to leverage. Checking the angles I believe Phillpots mod is preferable, the angle to the lever is fine and the angle to the axis of the cylinder is better.
greymrj said:
ooohh, that one is a bit 'lightweight'! Outriggers? What outriggers! Good luck! Good to see it is going to be saved though.
Thanks. It had been left outside apparently, so luckily it got rescued when it did by Brianthesnail, much longer and any more corrosion and it would have been uneconomical to do. Main chassis looks sound, years of gunk and oil leaks seem to have protected it, just outriggers and some previous repairs to the swing arm brackets need cutting out and renewing from what I can see at the moment. Rear arms need looking at too. Shotblast may expose more, but had a good look, knock and poke. At least I know it’s repairable and can start working on acquiring the list of parts I need. L 88S1 said:
greymrj said:
ooohh, that one is a bit 'lightweight'! Outriggers? What outriggers! Good luck! Good to see it is going to be saved though.
Thanks. It had been left outside apparently, so luckily it got rescued when it did by Brianthesnail, much longer and any more corrosion and it would have been uneconomical to do. Main chassis looks sound, years of gunk and oil leaks seem to have protected it, just outriggers and some previous repairs to the swing arm brackets need cutting out and renewing from what I can see at the moment. Rear arms need looking at too. Shotblast may expose more, but had a good look, knock and poke. At least I know it’s repairable and can start working on acquiring the list of parts I need. L Holmfirth said:
88S1 said:
greymrj said:
ooohh, that one is a bit 'lightweight'! Outriggers? What outriggers! Good luck! Good to see it is going to be saved though.
Thanks. It had been left outside apparently, so luckily it got rescued when it did by Brianthesnail, much longer and any more corrosion and it would have been uneconomical to do. Main chassis looks sound, years of gunk and oil leaks seem to have protected it, just outriggers and some previous repairs to the swing arm brackets need cutting out and renewing from what I can see at the moment. Rear arms need looking at too. Shotblast may expose more, but had a good look, knock and poke. At least I know it’s repairable and can start working on acquiring the list of parts I need. L These cars are easy to work on, definitely good for the novice like me, if it was just the chassis it would be great but I’ve got the bodywork, windscreen, interior and hood to sort too. All in good time.
Edited by 88S1 on Friday 16th August 16:21
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