Full frame vs. crop sensors - hand-held photo issues
Full frame vs. crop sensors - hand-held photo issues
Author
Discussion

Nick M

Original Poster:

3,632 posts

252 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all

Didn't want to hijack another thread in which the following comment made made:

"...if you hire a body best to get it for a week before so you can get used to it, specially if going crop to FF - I discovered my handhold technique was completely toilet when I went D300-D700 and shot at 200mm without a tripod or IS."

I found the same thing, but hadn't really stopped to work out why it was the case.

For example, I went from a D70 with a 70-200 + 1.7 TC to a D3 with the same lens / TC combination, but I found I was having to use a notably quicker shutter speed to avoid camera shake when taking photos of moving cars, etc.

To be honest I just accepted that there was obviously something different about FF vs. cropped sensors in this regard, and never really stopped to look into why, but seeing that comment got me wondering about it again.

Any simple explanations ??

Kermit power

29,622 posts

242 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
I'm surprised! I thought it was supposed to be the other way round. I've certainly seen plenty of articles, websites and the like stating that on a cropped camera, you need to add the crop factor into working out the maximum shutter speed for handholding. In other words, if I could shoot a 100mm lens at 1/100 on a full frame, I'd need to allow 1/160 on my Canon 450D.

andy-xr

13,204 posts

233 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
Yep, I'm pretty sure it's pixel density smile

GetCarter

31,254 posts

308 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
The one thing I'd say is that having moved to FF, I can up the ISO so far (without noise) that I hardly ever use a tripod any more.

Nick M

Original Poster:

3,632 posts

252 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
Kermit power said:
I'm surprised! I thought it was supposed to be the other way round. I've certainly seen plenty of articles, websites and the like stating that on a cropped camera, you need to add the crop factor into working out the maximum shutter speed for handholding. In other words, if I could shoot a 100mm lens at 1/100 on a full frame, I'd need to allow 1/160 on my Canon 450D.
That's certainly what I was expecting, but the reality is that, all other things remaining the same, I'm often having to use 1/250 or 1/300 when taking panning pictures with the D3, whereas I'd be comfortably down to 1/160th with the D70.

I know the D3 is bigger and heavier, which may play a part when panning, but it was quite noticeable the first time I went photographing cars.

It just seemed all round the wrong way and that full-frame *should* have been more forgiving, but clearly wasn't.

lowdrag

13,184 posts

242 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
Nick M said:
That's certainly what I was expecting, but the reality is that, all other things remaining the same, I'm often having to use 1/250 or 1/300 when taking panning pictures with the D3, whereas I'd be comfortably down to 1/160th with the D70.

I know the D3 is bigger and heavier, which may play a part when panning, but it was quite noticeable the first time I went photographing cars.

It just seemed all round the wrong way and that full-frame *should* have been more forgiving, but clearly wasn't.
Isn't the logic right though? I've had the D2X and now the D3 for several years and I found that around 1/250th worked for both, but that's by the by. On the basis of the sensor, surely the FF is more sensitive and so will exaggerate any errors so might need a higher speed to compensate. I'm fully with you on the ISO though - my photos of Le Mans Classic 2008 at dawn with the D2X and 200/400 were rubbish, but those of 2010 are magic. Just push the ISO to whatever level you like and no noise - well, up to 6,500 ISO anyway. A magic camera.

Nick M

Original Poster:

3,632 posts

252 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
lowdrag said:
On the basis of the sensor, surely the FF is more sensitive and so will exaggerate any errors so might need a higher speed to compensate. I'm fully with you on the ISO though - my photos of Le Mans Classic 2008 at dawn with the D2X and 200/400 were rubbish, but those of 2010 are magic.
I think this issue is more optical (as in the way the light behaves on its way through the lens and into the camera) rather than sensor sensitivity (by which I assume you're meaning 'ISO' ? ) since it manifests itself as camera shake being more prevalent on the FF sensor.

The same lens gathers light in the same way whether it be on a FF or cropped sensor, it's just that the 'footprint' of the lens has a smaller light sensitive area to fall on with the cropped sensor. This manifests itself as an apparent 'magnifying' effect on the cropped sensor (I know it's not) which would in theory make the cropped sensor more affected by camera shake.

Yet the opposite seems to be true, which is from where my confusion stems.

Nick Grant

5,497 posts

264 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
Maybe this is a Nikon thing, I don't remember any probs when I moved up on Canon tongue out

markmullen

15,877 posts

263 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
Nick Grant said:
Maybe this is a Nikon thing, I don't remember any probs when I moved up on Canon tongue out
Me neither, I have both full frame Canon (1Ds) and 1.3 crop (1D Mk2) and can't see any differences in the levels of camera shake I have to work around.

ian in lancs

3,853 posts

227 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
Nick Grant said:
Maybe this is a Nikon thing, I don't remember any probs when I moved up on Canon tongue out
Cheap shot! Deduct one team point Mr Grant! laugh

RobDickinson

31,343 posts

283 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
In theory the less dense sensor should show shake less when viewed at 100%.


I could 'get away' with slopier technique on the 350d but cant on the 7D (8vs 18mp)

A full frame should give you more ability to hide camera shake not less.

A d700 is effectivly 5mp as a crop for density comparison.

1/focal length should work for a FF, I try stick to 1/2*fl on the 7D.

mattdaniels

7,362 posts

311 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
Having gone from a D40 / 70-300 combo to a D700 / 70-200 combo, the weight difference has made a noticable impact on my ability to pan.

Colin RedGriff

2,541 posts

286 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
Think of the light coming out of the lens towards the sensor as a cone of light.

On a cropped sensor the light falling on the sensor is from the 'centre' of the light focused by the lens.

On a ff sensor you are gathering light from nearer the edges of the cone.

Movement (shake) is exaggerated at the edge of the cone of light so would be more evident on a ff sensor.

Just a theory fuelled by a couple of glasses of wine and an ancient Physics A level.

Simpo Two

92,737 posts

294 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
Colin RedGriff said:
Movement (shake) is exaggerated at the edge
I've never seen a photo with that was sharp in the middle with camera shake at the edges confused

Colin RedGriff

2,541 posts

286 months

Monday 14th February 2011
quotequote all
Good point - maybe it was more than 2 glasses of wine! smile

Nick M

Original Poster:

3,632 posts

252 months

Tuesday 15th February 2011
quotequote all
mattdaniels said:
Having gone from a D40 / 70-300 combo to a D700 / 70-200 combo, the weight difference has made a noticable impact on my ability to pan.
In hindsight it could very well be this. I've now started to use a monopod more often, not least because several pounds of camera gets quite heavy to wave around after a while.

markmullen

15,877 posts

263 months

Tuesday 15th February 2011
quotequote all
I found the opposite on weight, when I went from a 450d and 55-250 which was a small light setup to a 1D2 and 70-200 which is pretty weighty my panning technique improved.

lowdrag

13,184 posts

242 months

Tuesday 15th February 2011
quotequote all
markmullen said:
I found the opposite on weight, when I went from a 450d and 55-250 which was a small light setup to a 1D2 and 70-200 which is pretty weighty my panning technique improved.
Er - could that also be down to a substantial improvement in equipment, especially the lens?

TooLateForAName

4,928 posts

213 months

Tuesday 15th February 2011
quotequote all
I'd say extra weight should improve smooth panning - thing extra momentum if you are moving smoothly at constant rate.

markmullen

15,877 posts

263 months

Tuesday 15th February 2011
quotequote all
lowdrag said:
Er - could that also be down to a substantial improvement in equipment, especially the lens?
Certainly that helps but with IS off as an experiment I got a lot more keepers when panning even down to very slow shutter speeds.