Colour at night
Discussion
Don't really want filters at night as they tend to cause flare from nearby light sources and will slow the passage of light to your sensor in what's already a dark environment.
Rob's suggestion of white balance is a good one, my Nikon only balances to 2500k but has a hue adjustment that can make a reasonable hash of light pollution; that said, if you look around you'll notice everything *is* orange and there's only so much the camera will manage.
Will your subject withstand a mono conversion?
Rob's suggestion of white balance is a good one, my Nikon only balances to 2500k but has a hue adjustment that can make a reasonable hash of light pollution; that said, if you look around you'll notice everything *is* orange and there's only so much the camera will manage.
Will your subject withstand a mono conversion?
White balance issues are negated by shooting RAW - though that may be a step further than you want to tread just yet!
RAW enables you to alter the WB as if it was changed at the time of shooting. Little slider - wheee - WB changes
If you're happier with JPG, then playing around with hue and colour balance can work too.
RAW enables you to alter the WB as if it was changed at the time of shooting. Little slider - wheee - WB changes
If you're happier with JPG, then playing around with hue and colour balance can work too.
Edited by Simpo Two on Tuesday 18th January 10:06
nickcowen said:
I'v been shooting in raw and jpeg as I'm not too sure what to shoot in?
JPG gives you an image file that's ready to use; RAW is data and needs to be processed (typically to JPG) - and that is when you can make any changes you require. But as you are new to the game it may be better if you stay with JPG for now until you hit its limitations.Edited by Simpo Two on Tuesday 18th January 10:29
Simpo Two said:
White balance issues are negated by shooting RAW - though that may be a step further than you want to tread just yet!
RAW enables you to alter the WB as if it was changed at the time of shooting. Little slider - wheee - WB changes
If you're happier with JPG, then playing around with hue and colour balance can work too.
Sorry to piggy back onto this but I think from what you're saying that the WB setting on the camera will have no impact at all on a raw image? Presumably then it is just a step the camera goes to in creating a Jpeg? I think I have heard this before but I just wanted to double check.RAW enables you to alter the WB as if it was changed at the time of shooting. Little slider - wheee - WB changes
If you're happier with JPG, then playing around with hue and colour balance can work too.
Edited by Simpo Two on Tuesday 18th January 10:06
Gad-Westy said:
Sorry to piggy back onto this but I think from what you're saying that the WB setting on the camera will have no impact at all on a raw image? Presumably then it is just a step the camera goes to in creating a Jpeg? I think I have heard this before but I just wanted to double check.
You are correct that it will not be applied to the image data in the RAW file, only the jpeg. The data stored with the RAW file will remember which white balance setting was used at the time, and this will be the 'default' option used in the application you open the RAW file in, but you can change this.The alternative is to use the custom white balance feature on your camera by shooting a grey card (or just some white paper). This should mean the jpegs come out ok too.
marctwo said:
Gad-Westy said:
Sorry to piggy back onto this but I think from what you're saying that the WB setting on the camera will have no impact at all on a raw image? Presumably then it is just a step the camera goes to in creating a Jpeg? I think I have heard this before but I just wanted to double check.
You are correct that it will not be applied to the image data in the RAW file, only the jpeg. The data stored with the RAW file will remember which white balance setting was used at the time, and this will be the 'default' option used in the application you open the RAW file in, but you can change this.The alternative is to use the custom white balance feature on your camera by shooting a grey card (or just some white paper). This should mean the jpegs come out ok too.
Sorry, for taking over this thread but I have one last question regarding WB.
When there is a lot of snow about I've often deliberately overexposed (according to the meter rather than reality) by a stop or two which has made the snow white rather than grey. This has worked fine but I've also heard people suggest using a grey card in this circumstance to set the WB but that would have no affect on exposure. Do they actually mean that you should use a grey card to set your exposure using spot metering?
When there is a lot of snow about I've often deliberately overexposed (according to the meter rather than reality) by a stop or two which has made the snow white rather than grey. This has worked fine but I've also heard people suggest using a grey card in this circumstance to set the WB but that would have no affect on exposure. Do they actually mean that you should use a grey card to set your exposure using spot metering?
Gad-Westy said:
Sorry, for taking over this thread but I have one last question regarding WB.
When there is a lot of snow about I've often deliberately overexposed (according to the meter rather than reality) by a stop or two which has made the snow white rather than grey. This has worked fine but I've also heard people suggest using a grey card in this circumstance to set the WB but that would have no affect on exposure. Do they actually mean that you should use a grey card to set your exposure using spot metering?
There are two issues here, (1) Exposure and (2) White Balance, and I think the phrase 'grey card' has sent you over the crossing.When there is a lot of snow about I've often deliberately overexposed (according to the meter rather than reality) by a stop or two which has made the snow white rather than grey. This has worked fine but I've also heard people suggest using a grey card in this circumstance to set the WB but that would have no affect on exposure. Do they actually mean that you should use a grey card to set your exposure using spot metering?
Snow coming out grey instead of white is a matter of exposure - so you 'overexpose' from what the camera thinks so it somes out the right brightness. White or grey, the WB is the same, only the exposure is different.
There is loads of 'white' in the scene so although any camera set to any kind of auto-exposure will instinctively underexpose, it should get the WB pretty much right.
White balance becomes an issue when things that are suppoesd to be white appear slightly red or blue. It can be correctly exposed, but the WB is wrong and needs altering. The easiest way to do this is shoot RAW and adjust it later when you have plenty of time and a big monitor to look at.
Every tog has his own way of doing things, and a 'grey card' is not in mine
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