Portrait Newbie settings
Author
Discussion

EasyJimbo

Original Poster:

49 posts

218 months

Tuesday 19th January 2010
quotequote all
Hi Guys

I am doing my first portrait shoot on Sat and have never done one before and wondered what base settings (inc lens) I should use as a starting point for the portrait work?

thanks in advance

J

4hero

4,505 posts

241 months

Tuesday 19th January 2010
quotequote all
What camera/lens/flash do you have? Got a tripod?

EasyJimbo

Original Poster:

49 posts

218 months

Tuesday 19th January 2010
quotequote all
I have a Nikon D300s, I have a 18-55 kit lens and a 70-200 lens and I do have a tripod. I also have an external flash gun but not used it yet.

J

Simpo Two

92,829 posts

295 months

Tuesday 19th January 2010
quotequote all
EasyJimbo said:
Hi Guys

I am doing my first portrait shoot on Sat and have never done one before and wondered what base settings (inc lens) I should use as a starting point for the portrait work?

thanks in advance

J
There are infinite ways to do portraits. Before you get the camera out, where are you going to do it (eg outdoors, studio or workplace) and what lighting do you have/intend to use?

See some ideas at www.blokewithacamera.co.uk/parties.htm

Edited by Simpo Two on Tuesday 19th January 19:37

beano500

20,854 posts

305 months

Tuesday 19th January 2010
quotequote all
Somewhere between 70-85mm on the longer lens. Open up to about f/3.2-f/3.5 Aperture Priority. Manual focus or AF-S for single focus if on the tripod and focus on the eye and recompose. Matrix metering and iTTL on the Speedlight.

If hand holding you can use single autofocus again and lock focus with the buttons on the 70-200mm.

AWB throughout unless you're competing with external light sources, tungsten or whatever, in which case you'll need the Speedlight filters.

What else do you need to know? Take plenty of shots, but depending which SB, make sure you let it cool down between short bursts.

ian in lancs

3,853 posts

228 months

Tuesday 19th January 2010
quotequote all
beano500 said:
Somewhere between 70-85mm on the longer lens. Open up to about f/3.2-f/3.5 Aperture Priority. Manual focus or AF-S for single focus if on the tripod and focus on the eye and recompose. Matrix metering and iTTL on the Speedlight.

If hand holding you can use single autofocus again and lock focus with the buttons on the 70-200mm.

AWB throughout unless you're competing with external light sources, tungsten or whatever, in which case you'll need the Speedlight filters.

What else do you need to know? Take plenty of shots, but depending which SB, make sure you let it cool down between short bursts.
Bob on! the 70-200 can be a bit close on a DX body so Beano's 70-85mm is right. If you're after anything wider than head and shoulders the 70-200 will be too tight unless you've got the room to stand well back. Wider apertures do make focus critical especially on a long lens and DX exacerbates it. I'd be inclined to go to about f8 at about 3m away. I'd go for a portrait leaning against a tree, fence or wall (latter two shoot 45deg to fence/wall) with fill-in flash at 90 to the 'sun'. The subject will have something to lean against/interact with and provides more interest. I'd quickly grab a womens mag and find some pics you like and try to copy the pose and shooting angle.

As for camera settings go for aperture priority or manual with a minimum of 125s shutter. Use auto ISO if you need to - the D300s is fine up to 800+. Make sure you shoot RAW to allow max editing after. If you shoot JPEG avoid Vivid etc and set Neutral or preferably download the portrait setting from Nikon and use that - its quiet nice. Use Nikon's brilliat CLS and get the flash gun off camera to avoid red-eye and harsh shadows.

beano500

20,854 posts

305 months

Tuesday 19th January 2010
quotequote all
I keep thinking of a million more things to add - we could write books on a question like that, but wanted to keep it "simples":


Get in close and diffuse the flashgun or bounce it!

Yes, I was thinking of close shots - and my f/4 or wider is a personal preference where it depends how much depth of field is going to be appropriate....

ian in lancs

3,853 posts

228 months

Tuesday 19th January 2010
quotequote all
You're right shallow DoF makes a nice image. I've noticed professional models strike a pose and helpfully hold motionless for focus and reframing and some get the timing right for the shot perfectly. Then almost snap into another pose. Amateurs though are much more difficult hence the greater DoF suggestion. Another suggestion would to not frame too tightly and crop the photo later for composition (don't crop on a joint - knees, elbows etc). Its too easy to crop elbows etc in the heat of the moment!

Diagonal composition is nicer than square on or straight up/down. Also try movement like dancing or even jumping. What will the subject be?

EasyJimbo

Original Poster:

49 posts

218 months

Wednesday 20th January 2010
quotequote all
The subjects will be prof models and the location will be both inside a stately home and outside in the gardens (weather permitting).

thanks for all the advice so far.

J

Simpo Two

92,829 posts

295 months

Wednesday 20th January 2010
quotequote all
Is this a camera club/group booking type thing?

EasyJimbo

Original Poster:

49 posts

218 months

Wednesday 20th January 2010
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Yes it is the Taunton Strobists meet.

J

Simpo Two

92,829 posts

295 months

Wednesday 20th January 2010
quotequote all
Boing. I mean bingo.

Well just copy the rest!

ian in lancs

3,853 posts

228 months

Thursday 21st January 2010
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Sounds like great fun - watch others, relax and copy them and make the effort to interact with the models. They'll respond to you and you'll get better shots.