Post your studio setup...
Discussion
John I would say that setting up a studio would really depend on what you are looking to photograph as to how you would do it.
If for example you wanted to photograph cars or large groups of people you would need a big bank of lights in a floating ceiling plus more lights for fill in. But for small family portraits you could really get away with 3-4 midrange heads.
Give us some more idea what you want to create and I can give you a far better idea of what you would need.
If for example you wanted to photograph cars or large groups of people you would need a big bank of lights in a floating ceiling plus more lights for fill in. But for small family portraits you could really get away with 3-4 midrange heads.
Give us some more idea what you want to create and I can give you a far better idea of what you would need.
Cheers guys
Neil = cheap b
d 
I suppose im looking more for aparatus placement within a studio enviroment... More for portrait shots that anything. But then again i would love to shoot cars in a studio enviroment also
I learn so much more through pictures of things than words, i feel i do anyway.
Neil = cheap b
d I suppose im looking more for aparatus placement within a studio enviroment... More for portrait shots that anything. But then again i would love to shoot cars in a studio enviroment also
I learn so much more through pictures of things than words, i feel i do anyway.
john185k said:
I suppose im looking more for aparatus placement within a studio enviroment... More for portrait shots that anything.
There are certain 'standard' lighting arrangements for portraits - just have a google.john185k said:
I learn so much more through pictures of things than words, i feel i do anyway.
Fortunately light travels in straight lines and behaves entirely predictably, so if you know what effect you want to achieve, it's simply a matter of experimenting until you either figure it out, or go and buy more kit! I find playing around with lights much more interesting and rewarding than just copying something out of a book. Eventually you will arrive at your own favourite setups.Have a look at the faces on the front of fashion magazines and see if you can figure out the lighting by reverse-engineering.
Edited by Simpo Two on Monday 19th October 10:32
Start to follow Dustin, you'll soon pick up some good ideas
http://www.flickr.com/photos/polvero/4025366394/
Guessing magazine covers isn't that easy as they'll be using lots of subtle light modifiers like ring flashes to fill then highly processing in photoshop, but browsing through the strobist group and playing the guessing game before reading the comments can be fun.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/polvero/4025366394/
Guessing magazine covers isn't that easy as they'll be using lots of subtle light modifiers like ring flashes to fill then highly processing in photoshop, but browsing through the strobist group and playing the guessing game before reading the comments can be fun.
However the one I'm stuck on is the graduated background like this...
It won't embed so click on this: http://www.rosenthal.de/60R1-2
The best answer I can think of is a sheet of white perspex with black paint carefully sprayed on to give the graduated edge...
It won't embed so click on this: http://www.rosenthal.de/60R1-2
The best answer I can think of is a sheet of white perspex with black paint carefully sprayed on to give the graduated edge...
John, I recommend this book:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Photographing-People-Portr...
Each page has a photo on one page with a lighting diagram, settings and equipment list on the other. Very cool.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Photographing-People-Portr...
Each page has a photo on one page with a lighting diagram, settings and equipment list on the other. Very cool.
John
You only hint as to what you want to shot, but do you already have a set space that you have got to work with? The reason I ask is that will determine what you can do.
If you are looking do do some shots of people. I would suggest that you really need a 20x30 ft min, the bigger the better. I would suggest that you need a full width back drop roll facility with background rolls Black/White/Grey and poss a colour or two. studio 4x Heads (I use Elinchrom and would suggest a couple of 500/600 and a couple of 250/300 heads, a selection of different sized softboxes, reflectors and umbrellas, a good sekonic light meter, I use the Sekonic 358. Pocket wizard or skyport triggers. 3x Good quality master stands and 2x Master/boom arm stands and counter balance weights. some light control flags).
This would be a very good starting point.
I would suggest shooting tethered to your laptop so that you can instantly see you results and make minor adjustments.
You might want to have a look around this website to see what I am on about. http://www.elinchrom.com
If you can give me some more info I might be able to help you further.
Best of luck with it and let us know how you get a long
You only hint as to what you want to shot, but do you already have a set space that you have got to work with? The reason I ask is that will determine what you can do.
If you are looking do do some shots of people. I would suggest that you really need a 20x30 ft min, the bigger the better. I would suggest that you need a full width back drop roll facility with background rolls Black/White/Grey and poss a colour or two. studio 4x Heads (I use Elinchrom and would suggest a couple of 500/600 and a couple of 250/300 heads, a selection of different sized softboxes, reflectors and umbrellas, a good sekonic light meter, I use the Sekonic 358. Pocket wizard or skyport triggers. 3x Good quality master stands and 2x Master/boom arm stands and counter balance weights. some light control flags).
This would be a very good starting point.
I would suggest shooting tethered to your laptop so that you can instantly see you results and make minor adjustments.
You might want to have a look around this website to see what I am on about. http://www.elinchrom.com
If you can give me some more info I might be able to help you further.
Best of luck with it and let us know how you get a long
You dont need 20ft by 30ft at all, its about maximising what you have. I often wonder just how some of the guys with access to such huge studios would cope if faced with something as small as 10ft x 10ft. Probably panic and die forgetting their beginings.
Jon its about making the most of whatever you have got. I managed happily in a very confined space, one of the girls I shot is dating a guy that makes cinematic advertisements for the likes of cocacola, bmw etc and he was actually very complimentary especially when he saw how little room I had. You dont need warehouse sized studios at all, it helps but you dont need it.
It is limiting having smaller spaces but you just adjust to it. My old set up looked like this:
It allowed me to use a 3m wide by 6m long background system but very little scope for depth of field etc
It worked nicely for head or up to 3/4 body length but full length body was hard, so some comprimise with angle and lense choice or pose
Shows a range of what was possible in such a small room. Nothing spectacular but then more than what can be acheived with just a mobile background too
I'm now building an entertainment room/studio at the bottom of the garden, depth is 7.5m width a little over 3. Yes I wish it was 5m wide but its how things worked out. Whilst this doesnt give me a big advantage with width when shooting down the room, it does mean I can now have distance between background and model and allows for much more flexibility. When shooting into the 3m it gives a lot of room for light from the sides, fortunately I have side rooms with openings into the studio to permit flexibility when shooting into the 7.5m too.
This was shot purely lit with a tungsten light ring,very neat device I am hoping to build (borrowed a friends)
This is a couple of weeks ago, currently painting the rooms
When finished the floor will eventually be a diamond checker board of white/black tiles, wooden blinds on windows and a 1930s art deco fireplace on the left wall. The aim is for an early 1900s room which can easily be dressed up for other shots. I'm moving more into setup shots with sets etc as thats what I want to do,its a hobby and I do it for kicks. I wouldnt recommend building such a thing unless you have space and cash though!
I've not done any photography since the start as its been a huge effort and now trying to work out what look/style I want from lighting moving back to real/ambient and disliking flash
What its enabled is more control over light(still need practice)and also meant I could use my bigger lens at wider f stop
If you want to bore yourself after falling asleep to that lot I've a video showing the work at all stages:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSeGu1f7xcQ&fmt...
Just remember its not about how much room you have or dont have or kit its just about using it
Jon its about making the most of whatever you have got. I managed happily in a very confined space, one of the girls I shot is dating a guy that makes cinematic advertisements for the likes of cocacola, bmw etc and he was actually very complimentary especially when he saw how little room I had. You dont need warehouse sized studios at all, it helps but you dont need it.
It is limiting having smaller spaces but you just adjust to it. My old set up looked like this:
It allowed me to use a 3m wide by 6m long background system but very little scope for depth of field etc
It worked nicely for head or up to 3/4 body length but full length body was hard, so some comprimise with angle and lense choice or pose
Shows a range of what was possible in such a small room. Nothing spectacular but then more than what can be acheived with just a mobile background too
I'm now building an entertainment room/studio at the bottom of the garden, depth is 7.5m width a little over 3. Yes I wish it was 5m wide but its how things worked out. Whilst this doesnt give me a big advantage with width when shooting down the room, it does mean I can now have distance between background and model and allows for much more flexibility. When shooting into the 3m it gives a lot of room for light from the sides, fortunately I have side rooms with openings into the studio to permit flexibility when shooting into the 7.5m too.
This was shot purely lit with a tungsten light ring,very neat device I am hoping to build (borrowed a friends)
This is a couple of weeks ago, currently painting the rooms
When finished the floor will eventually be a diamond checker board of white/black tiles, wooden blinds on windows and a 1930s art deco fireplace on the left wall. The aim is for an early 1900s room which can easily be dressed up for other shots. I'm moving more into setup shots with sets etc as thats what I want to do,its a hobby and I do it for kicks. I wouldnt recommend building such a thing unless you have space and cash though!
I've not done any photography since the start as its been a huge effort and now trying to work out what look/style I want from lighting moving back to real/ambient and disliking flash
What its enabled is more control over light(still need practice)and also meant I could use my bigger lens at wider f stop
If you want to bore yourself after falling asleep to that lot I've a video showing the work at all stages:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSeGu1f7xcQ&fmt...
Just remember its not about how much room you have or dont have or kit its just about using it
Read Zack Aris's seamless white tutorial. The issue with smaller rooms and low ceilings is a lot to do with light spill. Even with directional modifiers like a softbox and snooted flashes you start having light bouncing around where you don't want it meaning you lose total control of your lighting. You can forget things light shoot through umbrellas in small home studios.
you can but then you can over come issues too, its a lot more difficult to control but you can take action. I used to use things such as satin and thick black cloth to absorb light, shoot through but atually be bouncing rather than direct, use reflectors to not only direct light but block it too. Anything is possible
While Stigmundfreud is correct that any size room can and often does have to be use to create a studio while on location shoots, this will have an impact on what you can achive.
I have had some great shots in tight spaces, but I would say that it impacts greatly on what you can achieve.
I notice that Stigmundfreud has displayed a good number of wide angle pictures which are great in there own right. So don't take this negatively, if you have a small family group you do need to have some distance, tight spaces can and will affect how you can also light your subjects. Looking at the pictures of Stigmundfreud studio it would be very difficult to say do a nice picture of two or three people leaping in the air with arms and legs stretched as a fashion shot with an infinity curved background roll.
You often need to use the full width of a wide background roll and have space for lighting ether side. roof hight is also important for over head lighting.
The length of your studio will also affect your angle of perspective and limit you on what lenses you can use. This is important when you start doing family groups, because you want to place them off the background to avoid shadows and you need to use angles of perspective so that you don't run out of back ground.
For creative lighting affects you also need to allow for light fall off and you do need space for that.
Which all comes back to the main question of what do you really want to shoot to give you the right advice from the outset?
Ok, even with the right advice and the best will in the world, you might still have to make compromises. But if you fully understand the problems from the outset, you will be better equipped in your plans.
Hope that helps
Snapper
I have had some great shots in tight spaces, but I would say that it impacts greatly on what you can achieve.
I notice that Stigmundfreud has displayed a good number of wide angle pictures which are great in there own right. So don't take this negatively, if you have a small family group you do need to have some distance, tight spaces can and will affect how you can also light your subjects. Looking at the pictures of Stigmundfreud studio it would be very difficult to say do a nice picture of two or three people leaping in the air with arms and legs stretched as a fashion shot with an infinity curved background roll.
You often need to use the full width of a wide background roll and have space for lighting ether side. roof hight is also important for over head lighting.
The length of your studio will also affect your angle of perspective and limit you on what lenses you can use. This is important when you start doing family groups, because you want to place them off the background to avoid shadows and you need to use angles of perspective so that you don't run out of back ground.
For creative lighting affects you also need to allow for light fall off and you do need space for that.
Which all comes back to the main question of what do you really want to shoot to give you the right advice from the outset?
Ok, even with the right advice and the best will in the world, you might still have to make compromises. But if you fully understand the problems from the outset, you will be better equipped in your plans.
Hope that helps
Snapper
Edited by Snapper7 on Tuesday 20th October 12:42
Michael/stigmundfreud
Just watched the video of your studio construction.
What are the measurements?
It looks like you have a good length to the building. In an ideal world you would have a bit more width and a little more height. You could also put a largish soft box in the roof space above the ceiling and have a removable panel. This lighting unit could be remotely controlled to adjust the power output.
Just an Idea, and I guess that you use the room for a variety of different reasons.
Just watched the video of your studio construction.
What are the measurements?
It looks like you have a good length to the building. In an ideal world you would have a bit more width and a little more height. You could also put a largish soft box in the roof space above the ceiling and have a removable panel. This lighting unit could be remotely controlled to adjust the power output.
Just an Idea, and I guess that you use the room for a variety of different reasons.
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