Panning with moving objects
Discussion
Okay I'll start us off in this forum . . . a while back I was at a motorcycle race at the local track (if you call 3 hours drive local), and trying to get some pix of the bikes that showed the speed, so I was doing some panning. Now when I got the slides back, I found that maybe 5% of my pix were usable. The others were either blurry top to bottom, showing that the camera had moved vertically (although I had it on a tripod of course), had the bike in a poor position in the frame, or weren't tracked accurately so that the bike was blurred front to back. This was with a 300mm f/4 lens.
So anyone have better success than I, or any tips for good panning shots?
So anyone have better success than I, or any tips for good panning shots?
Personally I'd scrap the tripod, that may well be part of the problem, you might try a monopod if you shke that much. 
I assume that you're trying to get something like this:
Keep the shutterspeed slow (yea, I know obvious) and keep both eyes open so you can see the subject coming before it comes into frame.
HTH
Tim
I assume that you're trying to get something like this:
Keep the shutterspeed slow (yea, I know obvious) and keep both eyes open so you can see the subject coming before it comes into frame.
HTH
Tim
I've taken plenty of panning shots, and generally get a pretty good hit rate. To be honest, I've found it easier to not use a tripod, and I do the following:
1) Stand with your feet at shoulder width with you facing straight at the area you want the bike/car to be in the photo.
2) Hold your camera with your arms tight into your body to give extra stability, and rotate your whole upper body at the hips to pick up the car or bike that you want to photograph.
3) As the target approaches you, rotate your upper body, trying to keep the target in the centre of your view finder and press the shutter when you're happy with the shot.
4) Continue to rotate your body after you've pressed the shutter so you get a smooth action
It takes a bit of practice, and I've also found that it's easier to get the hang of it the target doesn't take up the whole of the viewfinder. Also, if your camera struggles to focus properly, then select manual focus, and pre-set the focus to a point on the track where the bike or car will be.
Hope this helps!
>> Edited by ehasler on Friday 28th November 16:15
1) Stand with your feet at shoulder width with you facing straight at the area you want the bike/car to be in the photo.
2) Hold your camera with your arms tight into your body to give extra stability, and rotate your whole upper body at the hips to pick up the car or bike that you want to photograph.
3) As the target approaches you, rotate your upper body, trying to keep the target in the centre of your view finder and press the shutter when you're happy with the shot.
4) Continue to rotate your body after you've pressed the shutter so you get a smooth action
It takes a bit of practice, and I've also found that it's easier to get the hang of it the target doesn't take up the whole of the viewfinder. Also, if your camera struggles to focus properly, then select manual focus, and pre-set the focus to a point on the track where the bike or car will be.
Hope this helps!
>> Edited by ehasler on Friday 28th November 16:15
To further a point made earlier, i was taught by my father to preset the focus at a point you envisaged taking the shot at. Then you pan with the object until it reachees that point and click the shot.
Practice your swing a couple of times before the object gets to you.
Only trouble is with auto focus, if the camera picks something up on your swing to where you'll take the photo, you might end up with a blurred shot if it ca't re-focus in time.
Practice your swing a couple of times before the object gets to you.
Only trouble is with auto focus, if the camera picks something up on your swing to where you'll take the photo, you might end up with a blurred shot if it ca't re-focus in time.
ehasler said:
I've taken plenty of panning shots, and generally get a pretty good hit rate. To be honest, I've found it easier to not use a tripod, and I do the following:
1) Stand with your feet at shoulder width with you facing straight at the area you want the bike/car to be in the photo.
2) Hold your camera with your arms tight into your body to give extra stability, and rotate your whole upper body at the hips to pick up the car or bike that you want to photograph.
3) As the target approaches you, rotate your upper body, trying to keep the target in the centre of your view finder and press the shutter when you're happy with the shot.
4) Continue to rotate your body after you've pressed the shutter so you get a smooth action
It takes a bit of practice, and I've also found that it's easier to get the hang of it the target doesn't take up the whole of the viewfinder. Also, if your camera struggles to focus properly, then select manual focus, and pre-set the focus to a point on the track where the bike or car will be.
Hope this helps!
>> Edited by ehasler on Friday 28th November 16:15
All of that is exactly what I was gonna say!
If I wasnt busy cooking up a delicious dinner I would take the photo off the wall of the Konrad Porsche I got at very fast speed at Le Mans.
Its good blurred back ground and marshalls but yet the sponsors on the car can all be read clearly.
I managed this with a (good) compact too.
Applying all the technics as mentioned by Ed for the SLR work well too. To add to it though setting the focus point on the track is a good idea and also practicing the move on a couple of other cars first helps. Also finding a slower bit of track is usful and trying to get angles other than just the side profile (ie in a corner or the front 3/4 shot).
You can get them on fast bits of track but be prepared to have lots of pics of front or back halves of the car!
If you are like me though you will happily waste whole films just to get the perfect shot.
With my digital camera I find a monopod helps a lot. There is an anoying delay between shutter button pressed and picture taken so I find it helps keep on the subject better. Its all quick release stuff as well so it can be dropped in an instant. I tend to use auto everything on the camera so sometimes it will select a slow speed, handy fro 360 shots as well.
basejump said:
Sorry if this seems stupid...
TT Tim said
"Keep the shutterspeed slow (yea, I know obvious)"
- I'm afraid it's not obvious... I would have thought that would make the car seem blurred as it would be a longer exposure - and so make any shake more visible etc... - what am I missing?
Because you are panning with the car in the viewfinder, as far as the camera is concerned, the object that you are panning with isn't moving very fast, it's the background that is moving fast, hence you get a blurred background, and if you are doing it correctly, a nice, sharp subject. Hope this makes sense!
All good points raised above. I would add that it may be worth experimenting with the shutter speed to work out what suits you best and gives you a hit rate that you are happy with. Try different speeds ranging from less than 1/8 and up to about 1/125 or a bit higher (you may find it helpful to keep a record of what you've used for different frames as it's not so easy to work out from the finished product). It takes practise to get a high number of succssful frames at the lower speeds but is easier at the higher shutter speeds, albeit sacrificing some degree of blur in the background.
Don't be afraid of not getting the whole car into the frame. Just because that's what you see everyone else doing doesn't mean you have to do the same. Cropped action pictures can be just as (or more) effective, particularly if they capture detail in the driver's expression (helmets permitting!).
Go to one of the lesser known tracks where high fencing isn't yet in use everywhere and where you are closer to the track. You can normally get far more successful shots at such circuits. Shelsey and Cadwell are good examples at the moment but that may not last forever.
Also don't get too hung up about getting pin sharp moving objects all the time. I've seen some great sports action pictures where the main subjects have been deliberately blurred and/or zoomed whilst using very slow shutter speeds. Did a few sets like this myself a couple of years ago and they were quite successful in local/regional competitions and exhibitions. Though be warned, it can often be more difficult to get a blurred image that works well than a pin sharp one!
Don't be afraid of not getting the whole car into the frame. Just because that's what you see everyone else doing doesn't mean you have to do the same. Cropped action pictures can be just as (or more) effective, particularly if they capture detail in the driver's expression (helmets permitting!).
Go to one of the lesser known tracks where high fencing isn't yet in use everywhere and where you are closer to the track. You can normally get far more successful shots at such circuits. Shelsey and Cadwell are good examples at the moment but that may not last forever.
Also don't get too hung up about getting pin sharp moving objects all the time. I've seen some great sports action pictures where the main subjects have been deliberately blurred and/or zoomed whilst using very slow shutter speeds. Did a few sets like this myself a couple of years ago and they were quite successful in local/regional competitions and exhibitions. Though be warned, it can often be more difficult to get a blurred image that works well than a pin sharp one!
The Exif info that is saved with Digital Images can be very useful for checking what settings you were using when you get home, because, let's face it, it's always bl**dy cold at race circuits!
Here are some examples of pan shots with different shutter speeds. please don't slate me, the photos are crap but they are good as an example of what effect shutter speed has on the image:
HTH.
Tim
Here are some examples of pan shots with different shutter speeds. please don't slate me, the photos are crap but they are good as an example of what effect shutter speed has on the image:
HTH.
Tim
I'd plump for a shutter speed of 1/125 to give motion blur without camera shake (assuming you're using an SLR with 200-300mm lens). If you've got autofocus, set it to manual to avoid last-second hunting, and prefocus on the target area. I think of the actual panning process rather like a golf swing.
.Mark said:
I think of the actual panning process rather like a golf swing.
Do you drive a Chimaera?
Heh, good call! Actually Sherlock I have a Griff and have never played golf other than the crazy variety. Besides, if I had a Chimaera I wouldn't take photos outside, it'd mess up my hair. I shall now retire to my bunker.
simpo two said:
simpo two said:
I think of the actual panning process rather like a golf swing.
Do you drive a Chimaera?
Heh, good call! Actually Sherlock I have a Griff and have never played golf other than the crazy variety. Besides, if I had a Chimaera I wouldn't take photos outside, it'd mess up my hair. I shall now retire to my bunker.
Come on Girlies.
I drive a Chimaera and I've never played Golf and have no intention of taking it up in my doteage either!
Back on subject..
I was flicking through my filing cabinet and found this shot:
I can't take credit for the shot itself, that must go to Mary Harvey, but we comissioned her for a day to take shots for a brochure we were putting together way back in 2000, if I remember correctly it was a very cold December day at Mallory Park, and I had dragged the blue and orange car all the way up from Kent in a Dassel racebox towed by a hateful Vauxhall Frontera diseasel (yuck!), oh and I designed, produced and applied the graphics for that car too.
This is one of my favourite shots, what it does illustrate is that you can get some excellent shots if you choose your focus point carefully.
Hope you like it.
Tim
>> Edited by TT Tim on Thursday 4th December 08:18
I drive a Chimaera and I've never played Golf and have no intention of taking it up in my doteage either!
Back on subject..
I was flicking through my filing cabinet and found this shot:
I can't take credit for the shot itself, that must go to Mary Harvey, but we comissioned her for a day to take shots for a brochure we were putting together way back in 2000, if I remember correctly it was a very cold December day at Mallory Park, and I had dragged the blue and orange car all the way up from Kent in a Dassel racebox towed by a hateful Vauxhall Frontera diseasel (yuck!), oh and I designed, produced and applied the graphics for that car too.
This is one of my favourite shots, what it does illustrate is that you can get some excellent shots if you choose your focus point carefully.
Hope you like it.
Tim
>> Edited by TT Tim on Thursday 4th December 08:18
We're only mucking about Tim. 
That last one is an excellent shot indeed, I had a practice at this sort of thing at LeMans using the arms held tight against the torso and giving it the old golf swing movement
I suppose I could have zoomed in a bit more and the fence spoils it, but it just proves a hairdressing golfer who drives a Chimaera can do it!
That last one is an excellent shot indeed, I had a practice at this sort of thing at LeMans using the arms held tight against the torso and giving it the old golf swing movement
I suppose I could have zoomed in a bit more and the fence spoils it, but it just proves a hairdressing golfer who drives a Chimaera can do it!
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