Cannon 400D User Advice
Discussion
Hi,
I bought a Cannon 400D a little while ago and have just been getting used to using it. However now that I am a little familiar with it (I have just been taken photos in the fully automatic mode so far) I want to explore the advanced settings. I am going to Croft on Monday to see a sprint and will be taken the camera with me. Any hints on what settings and general tips will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Ross
I bought a Cannon 400D a little while ago and have just been getting used to using it. However now that I am a little familiar with it (I have just been taken photos in the fully automatic mode so far) I want to explore the advanced settings. I am going to Croft on Monday to see a sprint and will be taken the camera with me. Any hints on what settings and general tips will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Ross
Hi Ross,
I always shoot in manual, much better than the tv/auto settings in my option.
If you are doing head on shots, catching motion on the wheels isn't too important. Stick the camera on ISO100, f7'ish and a fast shutter speed (1/800 for example). These settings may need some tweaking depending on weather/conditions:

If you are looking to catch some motion, then slower shutter speed (1/125 for example), higher f number, and leave it on ISO100. This was shot at 1/50th without a monopod, takes some time to get used to though.

The best all round settings would be, ISO100, 1/125-1/160, f7-11 in my opinion. It really comes down to conditions, knockhill changes by the minute and I have to constantly change settings
Cheers,
Neil.
I always shoot in manual, much better than the tv/auto settings in my option.
If you are doing head on shots, catching motion on the wheels isn't too important. Stick the camera on ISO100, f7'ish and a fast shutter speed (1/800 for example). These settings may need some tweaking depending on weather/conditions:

If you are looking to catch some motion, then slower shutter speed (1/125 for example), higher f number, and leave it on ISO100. This was shot at 1/50th without a monopod, takes some time to get used to though.

The best all round settings would be, ISO100, 1/125-1/160, f7-11 in my opinion. It really comes down to conditions, knockhill changes by the minute and I have to constantly change settings

Cheers,
Neil.
4hero said:
Lots of good advice ...
But on the other hand some of that may be disappointing first time out. Can't be sure, it depends on your natural adaptation. Sooo...For action shots try setting the camera to Tv and the speed to 1/1000th or higher. Especially if you are at a faster part of the track. This should give you some sharp shots no matter what as bankers for the day's efforts. Let the camera deal with the aperture for now.
If it's dull use ISO400. Even ISO800 is OK.
Watch for the f-stop settings. Each lens has an optimum but that probably isn't the foremost concern first time out. You didn't mention a lens, as far as I can recall, but the chances are that whatever you have will give you great depth of field for sharpness. Unless you have some very fast and long glass in your bag the chances are that most shots will be quite sharp front to back unless you get very close to the action. If you can get close enough the 18-55mm standard kit lens can be remarkably good - or at least mine is, much to my surprise.
Remember to set the metering mode you want to use - I tend to use Partial or sometimes Centre Weighted Average. You probably also want AI Servo AF mode, central AF point (usually) for action stuff, and Drive mode set to continuous shooting
Do you shoot jpg and use the files directly from the camera? If so you get what you get. (Or at least you get what the in cameras settings are set to ...). If you shoot RAW and do post processing with an editor a 400D will usually offer enough flexibility to 'adjust' the exposure by about 1.5 stops, sometimes 2 when over exposed, using the editor after the event. So you have some latitude when in manual mode but shooting action outdoors in the UK often means that things change from shot to shot as 4hero noted. To make that work using fully manual settings means you really have to be 'in the groove' and feeling comfortable to set things without too much thought distracting you from the action. Definitely worth experimenting but get some shots in the bank first.
If you are working in the 'paddock' area you can probably safely revert to full auto and take a mental break from technique to concentrate on the subject matter.
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