Moving Water and n d filters

[wetny]

Had a go at taking some moving water pics with slow shutter speed. Ended up over exposed mainly. I take it an ND filter would help, but can you recomend one please. Any advice in this field most welcome.

[nick_bbb]

Did you close the aperture right down? This may help. Grads are available from Cokin (cheap) or Lee (expensive). Plenty of choice on ebay.

[GetCarter]

Best to do these shots on an overcast day or with tree cover. Anything that will 'stop' your camera lens down will help.

Tripod. 100 ISO, ND, slow shutter speed is the way to go.

ETA:

Edited by GetCarter on Wednesday 1st October 19:43

[wetny]

Closed aperture right down and used iso 100, was quite bright though.

[GetCarter]

Hence overcast day and ND filter (as above)

[JB Rugby]

Here's the non pro advice: aperture right down, 100 ISO and I've actually realised that you do not need to lower the shutter speed that much, just try a bit at a time. Beside, it's a good exercise to learn to steady your camera for your shot.

Taken this summer, Moustiers (Gorges du Verdon - France) on a sunny day.


And another


Both standing, no tripod, no filter. Of course there were some misses before the right shot.


edited because my engrish is rubbish.

Edited by JB Rugby on Wednesday 1st October 23:23

[RobDickinson]

ISO 100, F22, ND2 , ND4 and CPL, 30 seconds.

[john185k]

ISO 100, F22, Polariser

[CVP]

RobDickinson said:

ISO 100, F22, ND2 , ND4 and CPL, 30 seconds.

Rob, this is lovely.

A question to all shooting digital. How long an exposure do you find you get before noise becomes unacceptable?

Chris

[RobDickinson]

CVP said:

Rob, this is lovely.

A question to all shooting digital. How long an exposure do you find you get before noise becomes unacceptable?

Chris

Thanks!

As to the question, long exposure noise is caused by variences in the amps on each photosite in ambient temperatures.

I think all/most dSLR's have a long exposure noise reduction mode.

What this does is take an identical length shot straight after yours (on my canon it has to be 30seconds or longer) but with the shutter closed. This produces a dark field image, i.e. a picture of the probable noise on the photo.

The camera then subtracts that from the image to give you a much lower noise shot than you would ahve got.

The downside is if you shoot a 5 min shot it needs to then take another 5 min shot of black, which is deleted/never saved, but effectivly doubles your shutter time.

[Stu247]

ISO 100, F22, 8 secs, Polariser

[CVP]

RobDickinson said:

Thanks!

As to the question, long exposure noise is caused by variences in the amps on each photosite in ambient temperatures.

I think all/most dSLR's have a long exposure noise reduction mode.

What this does is take an identical length shot straight after yours (on my canon it has to be 30seconds or longer) but with the shutter closed. This produces a dark field image, i.e. a picture of the probable noise on the photo.

The camera then subtracts that from the image to give you a much lower noise shot than you would ahve got.

The downside is if you shoot a 5 min shot it needs to then take another 5 min shot of black, which is deleted/never saved, but effectivly doubles your shutter time.

Agreed, but it never seems to work that well for me, I always end up with some noise (usually odd coloured pixels) that need to be cleaned up. I now try and keep these exposures at 5 secs and no noise reduction in camera and that seems to work for me. Downside is 5 secs is not enough to get some of the lovely "milky" water flows we see exhibited here.

Chris

[GetCarter]

Taken today, in my garden

(This burn only exists for 6 months of the year, but when it does, it goes for it! - 1/5th second at F14)



..and another from a bigger burn further away: (1 sec at F22)

Edited by GetCarter on Saturday 4th October 17:28

[wetny]

Some stunning images. Have gone for nd 8.