Help with Filters
Discussion
xkrman said:
I am probably being thick with this one!
I have a Canon EOS 20D with EF-S 17-85 Zoom.
I want to buy a polarising filter but can not seem to find one.
It is a 67mm mount apparently.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks.
I use a hoya hmc circ pol on mine get them on ebay or from htp://www.surreyphotographic.co.uk
poah said:
xkrman said:
I am probably being thick with this one!
I have a Canon EOS 20D with EF-S 17-85 Zoom.
I want to buy a polarising filter but can not seem to find one.
It is a 67mm mount apparently.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks.
I use a hoya hmc circ pol on mine get them on ebay or from htp://www.surreyphotographic.co.uk
Will try the Tiffen set, but thanks for the other ideas
>> Edited by xkrman on Sunday 20th November 23:48
I just got a heart attack....I looked at how much the Canon or Nikon OEM filters are - even from Warehouse Express, the circular polarising 72mm is £145 and £180 respectively. Not that I'm going to buy an OEM but is this just them taking the p***? The glass might be good quality but can they really justify charging what works out at, depending on lens, between 25-100% of the cost of a lens for a filter?
HankScorpio said:
xkrman,
Be sure and let us know what they're like, if they're half decent, I'll get the 77mm kit from somewhere else like B&H.
Tiffen Filter Set arrived yesterday.
First impression are of lovely quality and 10 year guarantee apparently.
Very dull here today and I am on child minding duty so can't get out!
Took a few snaps in garden with and without circ polariser - see below (ps also bought lens hood at same time)
No Filter/No Lens Hood:
No Filter/ Lens Hood in Place:
Filter/No Lens Hood:
Filter/Lens Hood in Place:
As I say too dull for meaningful comparisons.
What got me thinking about needing filters was a recent drive to North Wales in cold crisp conditions. Gorgeous day and took a card full of photos, unfortunately too bright in many - see below
I am new to this digital photography lark but am sure the polariser would have made a huge difference on that day. Anyway it will be a good excuse to get out again when the sun shines, to experiment further.
Sorry to waffle on and I am sure the filter set is worth £35 of anybody's money.
Thanks again.
>> Edited by xkrman on Saturday 26th November 09:54
Hi xkrman,
I think your main problem is one of exposure and high contrast, for which filters are not a panacea. The top photos have too much contrast for the camera to be able to expose properly for light and dark areas at once - this is a common problem and one which I frequently battle with myself. The aim is to have detail in the highlights and the shadows, which in high contrast situations means exposing for the highlights and recovering the shadows later in PhotoShop or similar. In the shots above, the lens hood has helped reduce flare which has increased shadow detail, but if you hoped that a polarising filter gives nice blue skies, it's not that magical I'm afraid.
The 20D is a very capable camera but not telepathic, so I think it's homework time for you, learning about exposure, exposure compensation and histograms. That will help you get it right 'in-camera', which as you can imagine greatly increases your chances of getting a shot you're really pleased with.
I think your main problem is one of exposure and high contrast, for which filters are not a panacea. The top photos have too much contrast for the camera to be able to expose properly for light and dark areas at once - this is a common problem and one which I frequently battle with myself. The aim is to have detail in the highlights and the shadows, which in high contrast situations means exposing for the highlights and recovering the shadows later in PhotoShop or similar. In the shots above, the lens hood has helped reduce flare which has increased shadow detail, but if you hoped that a polarising filter gives nice blue skies, it's not that magical I'm afraid.
The 20D is a very capable camera but not telepathic, so I think it's homework time for you, learning about exposure, exposure compensation and histograms. That will help you get it right 'in-camera', which as you can imagine greatly increases your chances of getting a shot you're really pleased with.
simpo two said:Lens hood is your friend. My lenses have the hoods permanently in place!
... the lens hood has helped reduce flare which has increased shadow detail...
Filters and digital images is an interesting area. Whilst something like a polariser has an obvious effect for blue sky and reflections, there is always a cost. That cost includes the extra exposure, possibly leading to lower shutter speed and camera shake, and the fact that you are introducing extra lens air boundaries - we all remember at least something from our Physics lessons I expect!
My personal view is to use filters sparingly.
What you might like to try is an experiment of "bracketing" your exposures and learning what's on the histogram and in the final result. You may find you get results that more suit your expectations if you compensate in some situations. (Bracketing = deliberately taking some shots with more and less exposure than indicated by the camera when left to its own devices.)
However your issue with blue skies is relatively simple. The camera, even the top of the range ones with the very best technology do this too, cannot cope with a wide dynamic range, i.e. the scope from the lightest and brightest parts of the scene through to the darkest. I say the issue is simple, the answer is not always so easy, but there are different ways to achieve this. A polariser may help - but depends upon the direction of the sun, so sometimes it works in your favour, sometimes not.
In fact, no matter what the scene, the dynamic range that the sensor can cope with remains the same. So a dull day, with little difference between bright and dark areas of the scene gets just the same treatment as the brightest day. Which is a bu8mmer, because our eyes are always able to compensate!
Although I say use filter's sparingly, you may want to consider a graduated filter to make the blue sky appear darker.
I'll shut up now - I could go on for ever.....
beano500 said:
What you might like to try is an experiment of "bracketing" your exposures and learning what's on the histogram and in the final result. You may find you get results that more suit your expectations if you compensate in some situations. (Bracketing = deliberately taking some shots with more and less exposure than indicated by the camera when left to its own devices.)
Thanks, have had a bit of a play with AEB, but need to get out more and play again, together with the histogram.
As I say am having fun though.
Gassing Station | Photography & Video | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



