Discussion
Has anyone used one of these?
https://gopro.com/en/gb/shop/cameras...02-master.h...
6K, 360 degrees camera. Waterproof up to 16ft ...
I was thinking about a GoPro Hero 10 but then I saw this. I already have a Hero 3 and 4 so I am not sure if it is really worth getting a Hero 10 if the Max would do almost everything I would use if for (mostly, Black Forest, Alpine, and circuit driving; with maybe some drone video, when I get one) as well as providing the 360 degree footage.
Is anyone able to comment on whether there is any reason why this will not be suitable for any of the above or if there is a reason why a GoPro 10 would definitely make more sense (especially given my existing GoPro Hero cameras ...)?
Thanks all!
Daz
https://gopro.com/en/gb/shop/cameras...02-master.h...
6K, 360 degrees camera. Waterproof up to 16ft ...
I was thinking about a GoPro Hero 10 but then I saw this. I already have a Hero 3 and 4 so I am not sure if it is really worth getting a Hero 10 if the Max would do almost everything I would use if for (mostly, Black Forest, Alpine, and circuit driving; with maybe some drone video, when I get one) as well as providing the 360 degree footage.
Is anyone able to comment on whether there is any reason why this will not be suitable for any of the above or if there is a reason why a GoPro 10 would definitely make more sense (especially given my existing GoPro Hero cameras ...)?
Thanks all!
Daz
I wondered about getting a Hero 10 as they seem good value. Currently I use a number of cheaper Hero 4s to get multiple angles/ pedals etc. I’m not sure that the in camera digital stabilisation adds much as the killer on performance cars anyway is vibration rather than shake and no amount of digital post processing can deal with this well.
I’ve found that choosing the right location and mount is much more effective. For the price of one Hero 10 you can buy 4 refurb Hero 4’s and start getting creative in post processing.
Also I find that stabilisation adds a curious wandering frame effect which is a bit unsettling. For hand held shots stabilisation is great but I’m not sure it is the best solution for cameras mounted on a car.
Instead of upgrading the main camera, I’ve ordered an Insta360 to see what possibilities 360 brings to the mix.
I’ve found that choosing the right location and mount is much more effective. For the price of one Hero 10 you can buy 4 refurb Hero 4’s and start getting creative in post processing.
Also I find that stabilisation adds a curious wandering frame effect which is a bit unsettling. For hand held shots stabilisation is great but I’m not sure it is the best solution for cameras mounted on a car.
Instead of upgrading the main camera, I’ve ordered an Insta360 to see what possibilities 360 brings to the mix.
Tobermory said:
I wondered about getting a Hero 10 as they seem good value. Currently I use a number of cheaper Hero 4s to get multiple angles/ pedals etc. I’m not sure that the in camera digital stabilisation adds much as the killer on performance cars anyway is vibration rather than shake and no amount of digital post processing can deal with this well.
I’ve found that choosing the right location and mount is much more effective. For the price of one Hero 10 you can buy 4 refurb Hero 4’s and start getting creative in post processing.
Also I find that stabilisation adds a curious wandering frame effect which is a bit unsettling. For hand held shots stabilisation is great but I’m not sure it is the best solution for cameras mounted on a car.
Instead of upgrading the main camera, I’ve ordered an Insta360 to see what possibilities 360 brings to the mix.
There are clips of the stabilisation of cameras mounted on cars travelling over very bump surfaces so I would hope that it will work a little, at leastI’ve found that choosing the right location and mount is much more effective. For the price of one Hero 10 you can buy 4 refurb Hero 4’s and start getting creative in post processing.
Also I find that stabilisation adds a curious wandering frame effect which is a bit unsettling. For hand held shots stabilisation is great but I’m not sure it is the best solution for cameras mounted on a car.
Instead of upgrading the main camera, I’ve ordered an Insta360 to see what possibilities 360 brings to the mix.
I am also going to get an Insta360 with the Invisible Selfie Stick to record some Chase Cam videos
Evo9lution said:
There are clips of the stabilisation of cameras mounted on cars travelling over very bump surfaces so I would hope that it will work a little, at least
I am also going to get an Insta360 with the Invisible Selfie Stick to record some Chase Cam videos
You're probably right the at low speed they adapt for shake, I was really referring to vibration that you get with a track car. Even in post production adjusting all the settings you can't really fix that. When I found a spot to mount a camera on my bodywork that was more isolated from the drivetrain the image was really clear though. Other than that the trick I have found is just to drive faster to get above the resonant frequency...I am also going to get an Insta360 with the Invisible Selfie Stick to record some Chase Cam videos
The other problem with stabilisation is that if the camera is rigidly attached to the car and you compensate for suspension movement with stabilisation it creates some weird effects with the image of the bodywork. You can't stabilise both the car and the landscape at the same time. The ultimate answer is to use a gimbal I imagine but then you would feel like you weren't actually in the car. Depends on what effect you want I suppose.
I'm sure it's all dependent on the situation. I bet the reason that they show so many ski-ing videos on the websites is that is the sort of low frequency movement that is pretty easy to correct with these settings.
Basically it's a lot more complicated than I realised!
Tobermory said:
Evo9lution said:
There are clips of the stabilisation of cameras mounted on cars travelling over very bump surfaces so I would hope that it will work a little, at least
I am also going to get an Insta360 with the Invisible Selfie Stick to record some Chase Cam videos
You're probably right the at low speed they adapt for shake, I was really referring to vibration that you get with a track car. Even in post production adjusting all the settings you can't really fix that. When I found a spot to mount a camera on my bodywork that was more isolated from the drivetrain the image was really clear though. Other than that the trick I have found is just to drive faster to get above the resonant frequency...I am also going to get an Insta360 with the Invisible Selfie Stick to record some Chase Cam videos
The other problem with stabilisation is that if the camera is rigidly attached to the car and you compensate for suspension movement with stabilisation it creates some weird effects with the image of the bodywork. You can't stabilise both the car and the landscape at the same time. The ultimate answer is to use a gimbal I imagine but then you would feel like you weren't actually in the car. Depends on what effect you want I suppose.
I'm sure it's all dependent on the situation. I bet the reason that they show so many ski-ing videos on the websites is that is the sort of low frequency movement that is pretty easy to correct with these settings.
Basically it's a lot more complicated than I realised!
The biggest issue I used to have was with the wind noise; hence the wireless microphone purchase, to see if that helps.
Hopefully it will all work out, but the 360 camera will be the big change for me when I get it.
Evo9lution said:
Tobermory said:
Evo9lution said:
There are clips of the stabilisation of cameras mounted on cars travelling over very bump surfaces so I would hope that it will work a little, at least
I am also going to get an Insta360 with the Invisible Selfie Stick to record some Chase Cam videos
You're probably right the at low speed they adapt for shake, I was really referring to vibration that you get with a track car. Even in post production adjusting all the settings you can't really fix that. When I found a spot to mount a camera on my bodywork that was more isolated from the drivetrain the image was really clear though. Other than that the trick I have found is just to drive faster to get above the resonant frequency...I am also going to get an Insta360 with the Invisible Selfie Stick to record some Chase Cam videos
The other problem with stabilisation is that if the camera is rigidly attached to the car and you compensate for suspension movement with stabilisation it creates some weird effects with the image of the bodywork. You can't stabilise both the car and the landscape at the same time. The ultimate answer is to use a gimbal I imagine but then you would feel like you weren't actually in the car. Depends on what effect you want I suppose.
I'm sure it's all dependent on the situation. I bet the reason that they show so many ski-ing videos on the websites is that is the sort of low frequency movement that is pretty easy to correct with these settings.
Basically it's a lot more complicated than I realised!
The biggest issue I used to have was with the wind noise; hence the wireless microphone purchase, to see if that helps.
Hopefully it will all work out, but the 360 camera will be the big change for me when I get it.
Like you I have a couple of Hero 4 Black's for video they're just as good as the latest stuff, and I am playing with the free version of DaVinci Resolve which is incredible, there's lot's of good tutorials on YouTube.
The weather looks good for some shooting practice this weekend, have fun!
Evo9lution said:
You could well be right. TBH, I never had too many complaints when I used my Hero 3 or Hero 4 in the past and they didn't have any stabilisation so I think that I will be reasonably happy regardless. I have not been that "into" video recording in the past but I want to take it up more as a hobby (mostly drives, but also some landscapes / views, as I'm really lucky with the scenery where I live), so I may start to notice these things a little more. I think that a gimbal may be too extreme as it could, as you say, provide a level of detachment (might be good for a chase cam, though).
The biggest issue I used to have was with the wind noise; hence the wireless microphone purchase, to see if that helps.
Hopefully it will all work out, but the 360 camera will be the big change for me when I get it.
The Insta360 allows you to do this sort of thing really easily, I’ve used an external mic mounted inside the car to reduce wind noise.The biggest issue I used to have was with the wind noise; hence the wireless microphone purchase, to see if that helps.
Hopefully it will all work out, but the 360 camera will be the big change for me when I get it.
https://youtu.be/Vgj7Xturyys
Some sun would be nice though
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