Lens for visiting Santa in Lapland?
Discussion
I’m the designated photographer for a trip to see Santa in December. I’m anticipating a poorly lit grotto with limited space and no time to change lenses. Almost all of my photography is outdoors on holidays so I never take photos in conditions like these. I really have no idea how fast a lens I’m going to need or what the optimum focal length would be. My best guess is a Pentax/Tamron/Sigma 16-55 f2.8 attached to my K3. I could go cap in hand to my neighbour who has all the latest gear but would prefer to work with what I’m familiar with. Can I have some advice about whether my camera is up to the job and what single lens solution would be best and avoid the need to use Photoshop?
You’ll want something short for landscapes and something medium (say up to 100mm max) for people shots. And f2.8.
Ask the neighbour, IMO. And maybe get used to the idea of taking two lenses. If the neighbour is a nice guy, would he lend you a spare body too? It would make using two lenses a lot easier although there’s a weight penalty.
Ask the neighbour, IMO. And maybe get used to the idea of taking two lenses. If the neighbour is a nice guy, would he lend you a spare body too? It would make using two lenses a lot easier although there’s a weight penalty.
SonicHedgeHog said:
I’m the designated photographer for a trip to see Santa in December. I’m anticipating a poorly lit grotto with limited space and no time to change lenses. Almost all of my photography is outdoors on holidays so I never take photos in conditions like these. I really have no idea how fast a lens I’m going to need or what the optimum focal length would be. My best guess is a Pentax/Tamron/Sigma 16-55 f2.8 attached to my K3. I could go cap in hand to my neighbour who has all the latest gear but would prefer to work with what I’m familiar with. Can I have some advice about whether my camera is up to the job and what single lens solution would be best and avoid the need to use Photoshop?
As soon as I started reading I thought 'fast wide-angle', and there you are with a 16-55 f.2.8 It's not dissimilar from a wedding scenario. In addition, what ISO will the K3 go up to before you don't like the image quality? If it's low, consider a good flashgun with bounce facility and use it in fill-flash mode.My experience taking photos in ski resorts suggests that outdoor evening photos shouldn’t be a problem for my 18-135. All that snow reflects a lot of light so ISO 800, f3.5 and 3 stages of image stabilisation should be enough. It’s the indoor grotto - I’m assuming it’s indoors - when the kids meet Santa that I’m worried about. Will f2.8 be enough?
The neighbour is an option. He has everything but Pentax which is annoying. Another option is a newer second hand Pentax that I could resell after using it. I’ve done that before and it’s worked well.
The neighbour is an option. He has everything but Pentax which is annoying. Another option is a newer second hand Pentax that I could resell after using it. I’ve done that before and it’s worked well.
SonicHedgeHog said:
Never worked with flash guns before. Are we talking big bucks?
Pentax flashguns do seem a bit pricey: https://www.wexphotovideo.com/pentax-flashguns/However if that's too much there are independent makers who will do compatible units for a chunk less. I can't recommend one but no doubt someone else here can.
If you take a flash, ISTR the key is to get an off axis one. And practice lots before you use it in anger. I’ve always found flash photography to be, well, fking difficult to get right frankly. I’m sure if you have studio set up it’s easier to manage. The best results I got were using one of those L shaped side grips that attach to the tripod mount. They look ridiculously OTT but they give a much better dispersion of light.
BlackWidow13 said:
If you take a flash, ISTR the key is to get an off axis one. And practice lots before you use it in anger. I’ve always found flash photography to be, well, fking difficult to get right frankly. I’m sure if you have studio set up it’s easier to manage. The best results I got were using one of those L shaped side grips that attach to the tripod mount. They look ridiculously OTT but they give a much better dispersion of light.
With respect the position of a flash doesn't change the dispersion of light. However it's a good idea to get the flash away from the line of the lens to avoid red-eye.I don't think the OP is too eager to grapple with the nuances of flash photography, it's just a back-up if the light is too gloomy to get a good result otherwise. But the biggest jump, IMHO, is when you can bounce the flash for a softer result, and send just a little forwards for a catchlight in the eyes.
That said, flash photography is another department; the instructions for a Nikon Speedlight were more complex than the camera, and there is only so much you can hold in your brain when the crap is flying!
We went 2 years ago. I’d highly recommend taking something like a 50mm 1.8 or faster. It’s dark everywhere, even outside. You’ll want all the light you can get. Late December the sun won’t rise at all it will basically be dark other than 3-4 hours around lunchtime. Flash might be fine for grotto itself but a lot of the time you’ll be in groups and I don’t think a flash would be all that welcome.
A lot of my outdoor daytime images were f/1.8, iso 3200 and still a bit marginal on shutter. It is that dark!
A lot of my outdoor daytime images were f/1.8, iso 3200 and still a bit marginal on shutter. It is that dark!
Edited by Gad-Westy on Tuesday 29th June 18:02
Consider how it will be transported as well.
A freezing cold camera going into a roasting hot cabin is likely to end up with fogging inside - it's happened to me once - so try to keep the camera warm, or if it must get cold, give it time to adjust to the room temperature if you have half hour or so before you need it.
You'll probably be fine but I can attest to fogging up internally!
WRT what lens to take... the Sigma 1.8 zooms are pretty good but not super-cheap (for obvious reasons):
https://www.camerapricebuster.co.uk/Sigma/Sigma-Le...
Consider renting some kit for a not-unreasonable cost!
A freezing cold camera going into a roasting hot cabin is likely to end up with fogging inside - it's happened to me once - so try to keep the camera warm, or if it must get cold, give it time to adjust to the room temperature if you have half hour or so before you need it.
You'll probably be fine but I can attest to fogging up internally!
WRT what lens to take... the Sigma 1.8 zooms are pretty good but not super-cheap (for obvious reasons):
https://www.camerapricebuster.co.uk/Sigma/Sigma-Le...
Consider renting some kit for a not-unreasonable cost!
Edited by RSTurboPaul on Wednesday 30th June 02:05
SonicHedgeHog said:
Thanks for that Gad-Westy. I have an f1.8 50mm so I’ll see what results I get with that in the gloom at 3200. It’s really meeting Santa that I want to capture. Sounds like I might be grovelling to my neighbour for all his wizz-bang, ludicrous high ISO kit.
Consider the angle of view of a 50mm lens. K3 is a crop factor of 1.53 so 50mm is effectively 76.5mm. If you want to photograph more than 2-3 people and the grotto is small you might be stuck. f1.8 can also give you DOF and focusing problems.I'm sure the grotto will be better lit than needing f1.8 at ISO3200!
Simpo Two said:
Consider the angle of view of a 50mm lens. K3 is a crop factor of 1.53 so 50mm is effectively 76.5mm. If you want to photograph more than 2-3 people and the grotto is small you might be stuck. f1.8 can also give you DOF and focusing problems.
I'm sure the grotto will be better lit than needing f1.8 at ISO3200!
I'm sure it varies as I understand the big guy has more than one grotto but I just checked our images from the grotto. f1.8, 1/30 iso 6400. It was pretty dark! For that one image a flash would have been the way to go as long as it could be used with no messing around. The rest of the time, I wouldn't have wanted one. I'm sure the grotto will be better lit than needing f1.8 at ISO3200!
There is no place for flashguns with modern cameras in your scenario, other than a little bit in portraits, or to bounce off the ceiling to add overall light to a room. Both take a bit of ability (not saying you don't have any) but you could end up spending time faffing around and miss great shots.
My recommendation is not to bother. Nobody minds a photo that's a bit noisy because you had to crank up the ISO, but they will hate the kind of rubbish that badly-utilised flashguns produce.
My recommendation is not to bother. Nobody minds a photo that's a bit noisy because you had to crank up the ISO, but they will hate the kind of rubbish that badly-utilised flashguns produce.
Smug Pentax owner here: fully weather sealed. Having said that it does mean I need the Pentax lens rather than Tamron or Sigma which is shame as they are really good value.
I’m going to have to have a play with my 18-135 and 50mm. I need to know how far I can push it in the dark. The comments above are all helpful. I’m definitely not changing lenses as that’s a recipe for fogging up as has been mentioned. f1.8 could be tricky as if my focusing isn’t spot on I’ll be blurring out the kids while getting a super sharp image of a pile of snow.
Gut feeling is the Pentax 16-50 f2.8 is the way to go. If the ISO has to go too high I need to speak to my neighbour. Or get a K3 mk3.......
I’m going to have to have a play with my 18-135 and 50mm. I need to know how far I can push it in the dark. The comments above are all helpful. I’m definitely not changing lenses as that’s a recipe for fogging up as has been mentioned. f1.8 could be tricky as if my focusing isn’t spot on I’ll be blurring out the kids while getting a super sharp image of a pile of snow.
Gut feeling is the Pentax 16-50 f2.8 is the way to go. If the ISO has to go too high I need to speak to my neighbour. Or get a K3 mk3.......
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