Flash modifiers for indoor/event work
Discussion
I've got a couple of indoor events to shoot soon, a new thing for me. I suspect the lighting will be lousy in one if not both venues and certainly one has very high, wood-panelled ceilings and walls so I can't count on just bouncing flash off the ceiling. I'll be moving about too so don't want to drag a softbox on a stand around with me. Are there any decent modifiers for a flashgun that will give decent light for the shot but not give that obvious "big flash just went off right in your face" sort of look? One of the Magmod options perhaps?
8bit said:
I've got a couple of indoor events to shoot soon, a new thing for me. I suspect the lighting will be lousy in one if not both venues and certainly one has very high, wood-panelled ceilings and walls so I can't count on just bouncing flash off the ceiling. I'll be moving about too so don't want to drag a softbox on a stand around with me. Are there any decent modifiers for a flashgun that will give decent light for the shot but not give that obvious "big flash just went off right in your face" sort of look? One of the Magmod options perhaps?
You're right to be planning ahead. Wood panelling not only kills bounce light but gives highlights if you get the positioning wrong. It's about the worst you can get.If you're mobile I think the best answer is fill-flash. The combination of the venue and what you want to do is essentially a big handicap.
It's not this one is it? https://www.ttg.co.uk/hotels/edgwarebury-corus-hot...
I can't help with a specific recommendation as I use a Gary Fong Studio diffuser which is no longer available. There are some updated diffusers from the same guy, so I'd expect they probably work quite well, and don't look dissimilar to the one you mention in the original post, although they do seem to be ridiculously over-priced for a bit of white plastic.
What I would say is that whilst you will get some funny looks, the results of using any (large) diffuser are well worth it.
Couple of examples with Gary Fong diffuser in fairly dark walled rooms:
web_2793 by conradsphotos, on Flickr
138 by conradsphotos, on Flickr
ETA:
You probably already know this, but it's good to get some of the ambient light registering so that not all the illumination is coming solely from the flash. This usually means shooting in manual with a shutter speed at or slower than your flash sync speed (typically 1/200th sec), and an aperture wide enough so that without the flash, the shot would be maybe a stop or two underexposed, then let your flash sort out its exposure via ETTL (Canon) or equivalent metering, perhaps dialling in 1/3 stop underexposure flash compensation.
Your other diffuser option (and this is actually a serious suggestion) would be to make your own diffuser using something like a 2 litre plastic milk container. You can modify the light to push more forward by lining the back with tin foil. This is certainly what many people do shooting macro, partly due to the lack of commercially available options.
An example setup with very basic diffusers (from eBay):
Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr
Gave a fairly harsh lighting effect:
fly by conradsphotos, on Flickr
Whereas modifying the diffusers with some tin-foil containers and white plastic packing material looks silly but gave a much nicer light:
Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr
fly_b by conradsphotos, on Flickr
One final thought is that if you were considering making a diffuser, starting off with a really cheap small diffuser (like the ones in the first macro setup above) is a good base to start with as it provides a pretty solid attachment to the flashgun, and as it's so cheap, you don't mind sticking milk bottles etc.. to it. They are available from eBay for £2-£3.
What I would say is that whilst you will get some funny looks, the results of using any (large) diffuser are well worth it.
Couple of examples with Gary Fong diffuser in fairly dark walled rooms:
web_2793 by conradsphotos, on Flickr138 by conradsphotos, on FlickrETA:
You probably already know this, but it's good to get some of the ambient light registering so that not all the illumination is coming solely from the flash. This usually means shooting in manual with a shutter speed at or slower than your flash sync speed (typically 1/200th sec), and an aperture wide enough so that without the flash, the shot would be maybe a stop or two underexposed, then let your flash sort out its exposure via ETTL (Canon) or equivalent metering, perhaps dialling in 1/3 stop underexposure flash compensation.
Your other diffuser option (and this is actually a serious suggestion) would be to make your own diffuser using something like a 2 litre plastic milk container. You can modify the light to push more forward by lining the back with tin foil. This is certainly what many people do shooting macro, partly due to the lack of commercially available options.
An example setup with very basic diffusers (from eBay):
Untitled by conradsphotos, on FlickrGave a fairly harsh lighting effect:
fly by conradsphotos, on FlickrWhereas modifying the diffusers with some tin-foil containers and white plastic packing material looks silly but gave a much nicer light:
Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickrfly_b by conradsphotos, on FlickrOne final thought is that if you were considering making a diffuser, starting off with a really cheap small diffuser (like the ones in the first macro setup above) is a good base to start with as it provides a pretty solid attachment to the flashgun, and as it's so cheap, you don't mind sticking milk bottles etc.. to it. They are available from eBay for £2-£3.
Edited by C&C on Saturday 8th February 10:17
Thanks very much for that chaps. Simpo, no it's not that venue, it's somewhere up here in Aberdeen 
I've actually got one of those very cheap, simple diffusers, although I think I got a bit stung on it by paying £4 at scamazon, live and learn... I never felt like it made a great deal of difference compared to using the flash bare but I confess I didn't spend an enormous amount of time playing with it. Perhaps I just had the flash power set too high. I'll try and practice at home a bit before the first event.
I've actually got one of those very cheap, simple diffusers, although I think I got a bit stung on it by paying £4 at scamazon, live and learn... I never felt like it made a great deal of difference compared to using the flash bare but I confess I didn't spend an enormous amount of time playing with it. Perhaps I just had the flash power set too high. I'll try and practice at home a bit before the first event.
I've got a Gary Fong lightsphere and I'd rate it as ok but not worth the money if paying full price new. I've found that you still end up with a pronounced sphere of flash light being reflected in your subjects, particularly if they're in any way sweaty!
My biggest beef with it however is that it's not held together very well. I tend to wear my cameras at hip level on a strap and so inevitably the camera body and flash can bounce around a bit. The actual front dome part of the lightsphere isn't attached to the main rubber body by anything other than friction. It's fallen off a few times so I've had to take to taping it down a bit which looks a bit naff.
I'm starting to revert back to taping some large A4 white foam sheets bought from hobbycraft onto the flash instead. I've also previously had good results from an oblong plastic hand soap container so YMMV.
My biggest beef with it however is that it's not held together very well. I tend to wear my cameras at hip level on a strap and so inevitably the camera body and flash can bounce around a bit. The actual front dome part of the lightsphere isn't attached to the main rubber body by anything other than friction. It's fallen off a few times so I've had to take to taping it down a bit which looks a bit naff.
I'm starting to revert back to taping some large A4 white foam sheets bought from hobbycraft onto the flash instead. I've also previously had good results from an oblong plastic hand soap container so YMMV.
8bit said:
I've actually got one of those very cheap, simple diffusers, although I think I got a bit stung on it by paying £4 at scamazon, live and learn... I never felt like it made a great deal of difference compared to using the flash bare but I confess I didn't spend an enormous amount of time playing with it. Perhaps I just had the flash power set too high. I'll try and practice at home a bit before the first event.
I've never seen much sense in putting a yogurt pot on your flash, it just kills power. What's needed is a softer light and that means a bigger light source - ie a softbox. And fill-flash - if you have a compatible camera/flash combo you don't need to use manual, you'll have enough to think about.I've got one of these https://www.kobrafm.com and am pretty happy with it. Gives a decent light for the size, and made of silicone rubber so squashes into bags easily.
eltawater said:
I've got a Gary Fong lightsphere and I'd rate it as ok but not worth the money if paying full price new. I've found that you still end up with a pronounced sphere of flash light being reflected in your subjects, particularly if they're in any way sweaty!
My biggest beef with it however is that it's not held together very well. I tend to wear my cameras at hip level on a strap and so inevitably the camera body and flash can bounce around a bit. The actual front dome part of the lightsphere isn't attached to the main rubber body by anything other than friction. It's fallen off a few times so I've had to take to taping it down a bit which looks a bit naff.
I'm starting to revert back to taping some large A4 white foam sheets bought from hobbycraft onto the flash instead. I've also previously had good results from an oblong plastic hand soap container so YMMV.
Where did you buy it from? Reason I ask is that Gary Fong posted a warning about counterfeit items on Amazon a couple of weeks ago. Basically he was receiving faulty items that were manufactured differently from his products. My biggest beef with it however is that it's not held together very well. I tend to wear my cameras at hip level on a strap and so inevitably the camera body and flash can bounce around a bit. The actual front dome part of the lightsphere isn't attached to the main rubber body by anything other than friction. It's fallen off a few times so I've had to take to taping it down a bit which looks a bit naff.
I'm starting to revert back to taping some large A4 white foam sheets bought from hobbycraft onto the flash instead. I've also previously had good results from an oblong plastic hand soap container so YMMV.
Sophisticated Sarah said:
eltawater said:
I've got a Gary Fong lightsphere and I'd rate it as ok but not worth the money if paying full price new. I've found that you still end up with a pronounced sphere of flash light being reflected in your subjects, particularly if they're in any way sweaty!
My biggest beef with it however is that it's not held together very well. I tend to wear my cameras at hip level on a strap and so inevitably the camera body and flash can bounce around a bit. The actual front dome part of the lightsphere isn't attached to the main rubber body by anything other than friction. It's fallen off a few times so I've had to take to taping it down a bit which looks a bit naff.
I'm starting to revert back to taping some large A4 white foam sheets bought from hobbycraft onto the flash instead. I've also previously had good results from an oblong plastic hand soap container so YMMV.
Where did you buy it from? Reason I ask is that Gary Fong posted a warning about counterfeit items on Amazon a couple of weeks ago. Basically he was receiving faulty items that were manufactured differently from his products. My biggest beef with it however is that it's not held together very well. I tend to wear my cameras at hip level on a strap and so inevitably the camera body and flash can bounce around a bit. The actual front dome part of the lightsphere isn't attached to the main rubber body by anything other than friction. It's fallen off a few times so I've had to take to taping it down a bit which looks a bit naff.
I'm starting to revert back to taping some large A4 white foam sheets bought from hobbycraft onto the flash instead. I've also previously had good results from an oblong plastic hand soap container so YMMV.
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