Tips for driving R3 Race Cars - I just can't without TC on!
Discussion
Looking for some help from the experts 
Up till now I have been playing the game with all assists off expcet ABS and difficulty medium.
However now having been given a holden commadore and Ferrari 360 R3 race cars I find it impossible to drive them with no TC, to stop them spinning I have to take corners so slowly (trying to feather throttle etc) that it doesn't even make sense to use the "race car" for an R3 race.
This is becasue my R3800 veyron, Mines Skyline and Dodge Viper (RWD)can all be driven without TC and I can relativley easly win an R3 race. The only way I can be competative at medium difficulty (ie a chance of winning) is to have TC on with R3 race cars.. which I don't like as it doesn't feel natural
Why are "stock" R3 race cars soo much more difficult to drive than road cars tuned to R3 status?
If you have any pointers for me that would be greatly appeciated!!
Up till now I have been playing the game with all assists off expcet ABS and difficulty medium.
However now having been given a holden commadore and Ferrari 360 R3 race cars I find it impossible to drive them with no TC, to stop them spinning I have to take corners so slowly (trying to feather throttle etc) that it doesn't even make sense to use the "race car" for an R3 race.
This is becasue my R3800 veyron, Mines Skyline and Dodge Viper (RWD)can all be driven without TC and I can relativley easly win an R3 race. The only way I can be competative at medium difficulty (ie a chance of winning) is to have TC on with R3 race cars.. which I don't like as it doesn't feel natural
Why are "stock" R3 race cars soo much more difficult to drive than road cars tuned to R3 status?
If you have any pointers for me that would be greatly appeciated!!
Jakestar said:
Looking for some help from the experts
Up till now I have been playing the game with all assists off expcet ABS and difficulty medium.
However now having been given a holden commadore and Ferrari 360 R3 race cars I find it impossible to drive them with no TC, to stop them spinning I have to take corners so slowly (trying to feather throttle etc) that it doesn't even make sense to use the "race car" for an R3 race.
This is becasue my R3800 veyron, Mines Skyline and Dodge Viper (RWD)can all be driven without TC and I can relativley easly win an R3 race. The only way I can be competative at medium difficulty (ie a chance of winning) is to have TC on with R3 race cars.. which I don't like as it doesn't feel natural
Why are "stock" R3 race cars soo much more difficult to drive than road cars tuned to R3 status?
If you have any pointers for me that would be greatly appeciated!!
Jake,Up till now I have been playing the game with all assists off expcet ABS and difficulty medium.
However now having been given a holden commadore and Ferrari 360 R3 race cars I find it impossible to drive them with no TC, to stop them spinning I have to take corners so slowly (trying to feather throttle etc) that it doesn't even make sense to use the "race car" for an R3 race.
This is becasue my R3800 veyron, Mines Skyline and Dodge Viper (RWD)can all be driven without TC and I can relativley easly win an R3 race. The only way I can be competative at medium difficulty (ie a chance of winning) is to have TC on with R3 race cars.. which I don't like as it doesn't feel natural
Why are "stock" R3 race cars soo much more difficult to drive than road cars tuned to R3 status?
If you have any pointers for me that would be greatly appeciated!!
Are you using the pad or a wheel?
By the sounds of things you're feeding the power, but perhaps still have too much locking on when doing so or aren't feeding it in slowly enough?
Try feeding the power as slowly as possible, if it starts to spin up then shift up and feed again. As soon as it doesn't start to slide or spin up then thump the throttle to the floor!!
Im using a pad.
I think its a combination of too much lock (maybe not judging entry speed well enough as most times lock is needed to stop be going wide off the tack) and obiovusly too much power too early.
The real issue is that I dont understand why it is so much more difficult to control a R£ rac car than road cars upgraded to R3, its certainly fun, but not competative at the moment. With all the feathering, adjusting etc it seems to always be slower than using my viper which is much more planted on 1/4 throttle though the corners!!
Maybe its a setup issue??
I think its a combination of too much lock (maybe not judging entry speed well enough as most times lock is needed to stop be going wide off the tack) and obiovusly too much power too early.
The real issue is that I dont understand why it is so much more difficult to control a R£ rac car than road cars upgraded to R3, its certainly fun, but not competative at the moment. With all the feathering, adjusting etc it seems to always be slower than using my viper which is much more planted on 1/4 throttle though the corners!!
Maybe its a setup issue??
Edited by Jakestar on Thursday 31st December 15:54
I found the Ferrari 430 really hard to get to grips with when I started on R3. Out of every corner I was almost spinning, I just had to learn to be excessively light on throttle until it was pretty much straight.
However when I was gifted the FXX I've found it is soo much more controllable - you can get the power down much earlier, if you do start to spin the wheels it is much more forgiving.. And the noise
However when I was gifted the FXX I've found it is soo much more controllable - you can get the power down much earlier, if you do start to spin the wheels it is much more forgiving.. And the noise
ian_c_uk said:
I found changing the final drive, or even the first and second gears to be longer, reducing the acceleration in the lower gears, made it easier exiting tighter corners.
Yeh I have tried this aswell and it does help, still havn't mastered the art yet though!!I'll have to save and get a FXX then, sounds tempting with it being a good drive to boot!!
Jakestar said:
ian_c_uk said:
I found changing the final drive, or even the first and second gears to be longer, reducing the acceleration in the lower gears, made it easier exiting tighter corners.
Yeh I have tried this aswell and it does help, still havn't mastered the art yet though!!I'll have to save and get a FXX then, sounds tempting with it being a good drive to boot!!
I use the pad and don't have a problem with R3 cars without t/c. I also play without ABS, nor stability. The only aids I have on are racing line (braking only) and auto transmission.
What I tend to do with a new car is visit the storefront and pickup a decent tune for the R3 car I'm using, load that and buy the add ons required. Then I end up with a perfectly drivable R3.
FWIW I'm using the Porsche 996 GT1 Silverstream or whatever it's called. That with the most popular R3 tune seems to do ok.
What I tend to do with a new car is visit the storefront and pickup a decent tune for the R3 car I'm using, load that and buy the add ons required. Then I end up with a perfectly drivable R3.
FWIW I'm using the Porsche 996 GT1 Silverstream or whatever it's called. That with the most popular R3 tune seems to do ok.
Last night I won the FXX (glad I waited and didnt purchase )and WOW what a difference it is to drive!! As mentioned, it feels like a S class car, but goes like an R3, easily my fastest (and maybe favourite) R3 car at the moment!!
Unfortunatly I'm not online so cant purchase tunes, maybe I'll google it and try and find some examples
)and WOW what a difference it is to drive!! As mentioned, it feels like a S class car, but goes like an R3, easily my fastest (and maybe favourite) R3 car at the moment!! mrmr96 said:
The only aids I have on are racing line (braking only) and auto transmission.
What I tend to do with a new car is visit the storefront and pickup a decent tune for the R3 car I'm using, load that and buy the add ons required.
Can I ask if your able to drive without ABS (which is far too much hassle for me!) why do you drive with auto (this is a large part of the enjoyment for me, plus bliped downchages and engine braking is faster) and need the racing line?? What I tend to do with a new car is visit the storefront and pickup a decent tune for the R3 car I'm using, load that and buy the add ons required.
Unfortunatly I'm not online so cant purchase tunes, maybe I'll google it and try and find some examples
Edited by Jakestar on Saturday 2nd January 14:22
I think the main reason road cars are easier to drive than R3 cars is; all the cars you mentioned are AWD (Vipers are usally converted). Possibly?
Try these and then let me know how u get on with them.
1. Try and use 4 gears only. 5 at a push. This will lengthen the gears that will have the car in 2nd for corners and slightly dropping out of the peak torque band, therefor building it up slowly for you.
2. Stiffen front dampers and soften rear. Same with suspension and ARB.
3. Add negative rear toe-in and slightly less camber. I find -0.5 toe-in and camber of about .3 to .6 ideal.
4. Practise carrying more speed through the apex of the corners. Sounds daft but theres a chance being slightly slower at the apex means you want to 'rush' getting on the throttle.
5. Practice with the telemetry on with the throttle and brake metres. On corner exits (especially slow ones) make sure that little green bar is never more than 50% full until the cars attitude is stable enough for it and that its gradually applied. You will be surprised how little you really need to touch the triggers to get that lottle bar up to 30%. And avoid 'stamping' on the throttle.
Try these and then let me know how u get on with them.
1. Try and use 4 gears only. 5 at a push. This will lengthen the gears that will have the car in 2nd for corners and slightly dropping out of the peak torque band, therefor building it up slowly for you.
2. Stiffen front dampers and soften rear. Same with suspension and ARB.
3. Add negative rear toe-in and slightly less camber. I find -0.5 toe-in and camber of about .3 to .6 ideal.
4. Practise carrying more speed through the apex of the corners. Sounds daft but theres a chance being slightly slower at the apex means you want to 'rush' getting on the throttle.
5. Practice with the telemetry on with the throttle and brake metres. On corner exits (especially slow ones) make sure that little green bar is never more than 50% full until the cars attitude is stable enough for it and that its gradually applied. You will be surprised how little you really need to touch the triggers to get that lottle bar up to 30%. And avoid 'stamping' on the throttle.
Senna s1979 said:
I think the main reason road cars are easier to drive than R3 cars is; all the cars you mentioned are AWD (Vipers are usally converted). Possibly?
Try these and then let me know how u get on with them.
1. Try and use 4 gears only. 5 at a push. This will lengthen the gears that will have the car in 2nd for corners and slightly dropping out of the peak torque band, therefor building it up slowly for you.
2. Stiffen front dampers and soften rear. Same with suspension and ARB.
3. Add negative rear toe-in and slightly less camber. I find -0.5 toe-in and camber of about .3 to .6 ideal.
4. Practise carrying more speed through the apex of the corners. Sounds daft but theres a chance being slightly slower at the apex means you want to 'rush' getting on the throttle.
5. Practice with the telemetry on with the throttle and brake metres. On corner exits (especially slow ones) make sure that little green bar is never more than 50% full until the cars attitude is stable enough for it and that its gradually applied. You will be surprised how little you really need to touch the triggers to get that lottle bar up to 30%. And avoid 'stamping' on the throttle.
My viper is RWD (I make a point of never converting drivetrain is at draws away from the purity IMO)I also have a mixture of AWD and RWD cars in all classes but have just been finding R class that much more tricky!Try these and then let me know how u get on with them.
1. Try and use 4 gears only. 5 at a push. This will lengthen the gears that will have the car in 2nd for corners and slightly dropping out of the peak torque band, therefor building it up slowly for you.
2. Stiffen front dampers and soften rear. Same with suspension and ARB.
3. Add negative rear toe-in and slightly less camber. I find -0.5 toe-in and camber of about .3 to .6 ideal.
4. Practise carrying more speed through the apex of the corners. Sounds daft but theres a chance being slightly slower at the apex means you want to 'rush' getting on the throttle.
5. Practice with the telemetry on with the throttle and brake metres. On corner exits (especially slow ones) make sure that little green bar is never more than 50% full until the cars attitude is stable enough for it and that its gradually applied. You will be surprised how little you really need to touch the triggers to get that lottle bar up to 30%. And avoid 'stamping' on the throttle.
Cheers for you tips, will give these a try and let you know how I get on.
NB I feel I'm getting there with the 911 RSR and Z4 race, just being very light on the throttle in the corners but letting the downforce help (which i guess thats what you were getting at with point 4 (you sometimes have more grip in a corner if you are going a little quicker!)
Jakestar said:
mrmr96 said:
The only aids I have on are racing line (braking only) and auto transmission.
What I tend to do with a new car is visit the storefront and pickup a decent tune for the R3 car I'm using, load that and buy the add ons required.
Can I ask if your able to drive without ABS (which is far too much hassle for me!) why do you drive with auto (this is a large part of the enjoyment for me, plus bliped downchages and engine braking is faster) and need the racing line?? What I tend to do with a new car is visit the storefront and pickup a decent tune for the R3 car I'm using, load that and buy the add ons required.
I also found it hard driving R3 cars with the pad with no assists turned on. Alot of my road cars make more power and have more traction.
The only way I can be competative is to drive as you a real RWD car ie hard on the breaks before the bends nuetral throttle through the bend and then hard on the loud peddle as you come out of the bend.
some times you get it just right other times you end up drifting a lot.
The only way I can be competative is to drive as you a real RWD car ie hard on the breaks before the bends nuetral throttle through the bend and then hard on the loud peddle as you come out of the bend.
some times you get it just right other times you end up drifting a lot.
Gassing Station | Video Games | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff