Camber Adjuster Bolts/plates
Discussion
I used these on mine, they are identical to the Ingalls 81260 used for this job.
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m10b0s...
(you only need one set for the Mustang)
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m10b0s...
(you only need one set for the Mustang)
I used something similar to Mr Kipling... only mine were supplied by Eibach themselves.
Yes, this was something I was worried about when lowering my car. I went for the sportline kit which is even lower. I bought a camber adjustment guage from Sealey for about £40. I adjusted 1 degree of negative camber on both front wheels.
Really though, I think most of your wear will come from the tracking being out after lowering. As you lower the car, the steering rods 'appear to get longer therefore forcing the front edges of the tyres further apart... are your tyres worn on the inside edge?
I actually tracked my car by feel (believe it or not!). I just took a methodical approach to steering adjustment... Basically once lowered, the on center feel of the steering went vague (a sure case of alignment problems). I just loosened each side off, and took up an extra quarter turn... then went for a test drive. It took 3 goes to get the 'feel' of the car just right. No vague dead center, and excellent grip/feel in the corners. After this I found that my steering wheel was not perpendicular when the car was travelling in a perfect straight line. This sort of thing annoys me (hey, I'm a perfectionist!). That was easy to fix too. I just got under the car and depending on which way you need to turn the wheel, loosen one side, and wind it in a quarter of a turn, then go to the other side and wind it out a quarter of a turn. This will keep the tracking the same, but should striaghten the wheel. A quarter turn fixed my steering dead on the first go!
Now she tracks beautifully, has great feel, excellent dead center feel. Even on my sportline suspension with 20" wheels and 35 series tyres... I can let go of the steering wheel. It returns dead center and the car tracks in a perfectly in a straight line (apart from when you hit a camber in the road). But all cars drift with road camber.
Sticks to the road extremely well and I've got full confidence when pushing it harder in the bends.
So... you can do it (I don't trust anyone else to fiddle with my car, hence tracking it myself). But, my solution only works if the car was tracking perfectly in the first place before any work was done to the car. If the tracking wasn't great in the first place, then you will need to get a garage to do it, or buy a tracking kit (approx £500).
I've noticed absolutely zero feathering wear on my tyres since I did this... approx 3,500 miles ago. There's no 'scrub' evidence at all. It doesn't sound like it's scrubbing when cornering either. It just goes and grips. Nice!
Anyway, I'm rattling on...
Cheers
Dazza
Yes, this was something I was worried about when lowering my car. I went for the sportline kit which is even lower. I bought a camber adjustment guage from Sealey for about £40. I adjusted 1 degree of negative camber on both front wheels.
Really though, I think most of your wear will come from the tracking being out after lowering. As you lower the car, the steering rods 'appear to get longer therefore forcing the front edges of the tyres further apart... are your tyres worn on the inside edge?
I actually tracked my car by feel (believe it or not!). I just took a methodical approach to steering adjustment... Basically once lowered, the on center feel of the steering went vague (a sure case of alignment problems). I just loosened each side off, and took up an extra quarter turn... then went for a test drive. It took 3 goes to get the 'feel' of the car just right. No vague dead center, and excellent grip/feel in the corners. After this I found that my steering wheel was not perpendicular when the car was travelling in a perfect straight line. This sort of thing annoys me (hey, I'm a perfectionist!). That was easy to fix too. I just got under the car and depending on which way you need to turn the wheel, loosen one side, and wind it in a quarter of a turn, then go to the other side and wind it out a quarter of a turn. This will keep the tracking the same, but should striaghten the wheel. A quarter turn fixed my steering dead on the first go!
Now she tracks beautifully, has great feel, excellent dead center feel. Even on my sportline suspension with 20" wheels and 35 series tyres... I can let go of the steering wheel. It returns dead center and the car tracks in a perfectly in a straight line (apart from when you hit a camber in the road). But all cars drift with road camber.
Sticks to the road extremely well and I've got full confidence when pushing it harder in the bends.
So... you can do it (I don't trust anyone else to fiddle with my car, hence tracking it myself). But, my solution only works if the car was tracking perfectly in the first place before any work was done to the car. If the tracking wasn't great in the first place, then you will need to get a garage to do it, or buy a tracking kit (approx £500).
I've noticed absolutely zero feathering wear on my tyres since I did this... approx 3,500 miles ago. There's no 'scrub' evidence at all. It doesn't sound like it's scrubbing when cornering either. It just goes and grips. Nice!
Anyway, I'm rattling on...
Cheers
Dazza
Edited by zektor on Saturday 25th August 13:47
Hi MrPayne,
I have also lowered my stang but with Eibach Pro Springs. It too needed camber correction. I had purchased "camber bolts" and was reluctant about installing them. They look like they're 3/4 the size of the oem strut spindle bolt. I installed them anyway. The torque specs for the camber bolts are 55 ft lbs, and the oem bolts are 148 ft lbs. I wasn't comfortable with this huge difference, so today the camber bolts are coming out and Steeda's strut mount for '05 - '07 are going in, they give you 1 degree positive or negative and no NVH.
Here's a link
http://www.steeda.com/products/heavy_duty_upper_st...
Camber bolts seem to be fine for street use, but I want to autocross this stang and I'll feel more comfortable with the Steeda Strut Mount. I also installed Steeda's adjustable panhard bar and brace and they rock!!!
Hope the helps.
Starace
I have also lowered my stang but with Eibach Pro Springs. It too needed camber correction. I had purchased "camber bolts" and was reluctant about installing them. They look like they're 3/4 the size of the oem strut spindle bolt. I installed them anyway. The torque specs for the camber bolts are 55 ft lbs, and the oem bolts are 148 ft lbs. I wasn't comfortable with this huge difference, so today the camber bolts are coming out and Steeda's strut mount for '05 - '07 are going in, they give you 1 degree positive or negative and no NVH.
Here's a link
http://www.steeda.com/products/heavy_duty_upper_st...
Camber bolts seem to be fine for street use, but I want to autocross this stang and I'll feel more comfortable with the Steeda Strut Mount. I also installed Steeda's adjustable panhard bar and brace and they rock!!!
Hope the helps.
Starace
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