Found one

[steve-p]

I've done a deal on a Mustang at last. It's a '65 fastback. Hopefully, I will pick it up next weekend. Anyway, now the questions start

Insurance - I will need agreed value, but how easy is this? Is it just a case of sending some photographs, or does someone have to appraise the car? I will also need commuting cover so I can take it to work in the summer (if summer ever comes back). I won't have any bonus to transfer yet, since I already used both my max NCDs on the other two cars. I assume this isn't a problem with classic insurance. I tried the only online quote site I could find, and it wouldn't give me a quote because of the value of the car and having no approved alarm/immobiliser fitted.

Club - I expect I might need to join a club because it may allow discounted insurance. Any recommendations? The MOCGB would seem to be the logical choice.

Rustproofing - the biggest worry. What can be done?

Anti-theft measures - I don't really want a tracker but I probably need an alarm. However it would need to be sympathetic because I don't want the car pulled apart or ugly sensors fitted. I don't expect there's much point trying to fit an immobiliser in a car with no ECU since it could easily be bypassed. Also I note that the fuel cap does not lock (and I'm more worried about someone stealing the cap than the fuel). A mechanical device of some sort to immobilise the car might be worth a go, provided it works. Something like Discarnect might be OK, but it seems to me it could easily be bypassed with a £5 jump lead. Or maybe something to lock the steering wheel, e.g. Disklok which I think is Thatcham approved.

Fluids/engine - the car had a brand new crated Ford Motorsport engine fitted a few years ago at eye watering expense. I'm guessing that means it will run on unleaded no problem. The question is, does it need super unleaded? Given the low quality of US fuel, perhaps not. I know it's going to be horrendous on fuel, so this is a consideration. Also, I'd like to use a synthetic oil such as Mobil 1 15W50 Motorsport or similar. Is this likely to be suitable? I don't know what the engine capacity is yet. It's probably either a 302 or maybe a 351W. Is there an easy way to tell them apart visually?

Servicing - I'm wondering how often it's going to need maintenance. The original service schedule was every 3 months I think but given the number of miles I will be doing, I guess that won't matter so much. It will be laid up over the winter. I have found some nearby specialists but it's still going to be hassle to get stuff done.

Parts - I've noticed that most eBay people in the US won't send stuff to the UK. I'm not expecting to need much, but I'd like to source an original centre console and a repro owner's manual. I can probably get them sent on as a favour from someone who lives in the US, I just wondered if there were any other reliable ways to do it. Also, there are a lot of UK parts suppliers listed in Classic American. Are any of these particularly good?

That's it for now. Any and all advice appreciated

[Twin Turbo]

Cool! Post piccies as soon as you can.

Insurance. You won't need NCD for a classic policy (and you don't earn NCD on it either). I used MCE for my Capri, limited to 3000 miles but you can use it for commuting. They didn't require any alarm system, although my car is already fitted with an immobiliser.

I can't answer your specific technical questions, I'd suggest the Mustang owners club for that.

Keep us posted

[steve-p]

I've answered a couple of my own questions. I joined the MOCGB, and I got a classic policy through Adrian Flux. 5,000 miles a year limit and commuting allowed for a premium of £155, which seems very reasonable I will need to get a valuation through the club for agreed value, until then it's market value.

[steve-p]

Twin Turbo said:

Insurance. You won't need NCD for a classic policy (and you don't earn NCD on it either). I used MCE for my Capri, limited to 3000 miles but you can use it for commuting. They didn't require any alarm system, although my car is already fitted with an immobiliser.

Seems odd in this day and age that no security devices at all are needed doesn't it - I double checked when taking out the policy, and it really doesn't make any difference it seems.

[tdo]

nice one mate, how much it knock you back? (if you don't mind)

i've been told by the wife i've got to wait till next year

[LuS1fer]

steve-p said:

I've done a deal on a Mustang at last. It's a '65 fastback. Hopefully, I will pick it up next weekend. Anyway, now the questions start

Club - I expect I might need to join a club because it may allow discounted insurance. Any recommendations? The MOCGB would seem to be the logical choice.

Agreed

steve-p said:

Rustproofing - the biggest worry. What can be done?

I suggest you search Google to find the best system and then find a local specialist to apply it unless you fancy a go yourself. There are plenty of classic sites which cover the subject.

steve-p said:

Anti-theft measures - I don't really want a tracker but I probably need an alarm. However it would need to be sympathetic because I don't want the car pulled apart or ugly sensors fitted. I don't expect there's much point trying to fit an immobiliser in a car with no ECU since it could easily be bypassed. Also I note that the fuel cap does not lock (and I'm more worried about someone stealing the cap than the fuel). A mechanical device of some sort to immobilise the car might be worth a go, provided it works. Something like Discarnect might be OK, but it seems to me it could easily be bypassed with a £5 jump lead. Or maybe something to lock the steering wheel, e.g. Disklok which I think is Thatcham approved.

I've never actually had anybody ever try to steal an American car (LHD, noise, hardly going to outhandle much in a pursuit etc) but I suppose an original Mustang might be a target for profit. If so, it will more likely be a professional job and they will probably steal it regardless. I would tend to fit a simple switch to immobilise the ignition which, in the event of an attempt to steal it will permit you sufficient time to get your baseball bat

steve-p said:

Fluids/engine - the car had a brand new crated Ford Motorsport engine fitted a few years ago at eye watering expense. I'm guessing that means it will run on unleaded no problem. The question is, does it need super unleaded? Given the low quality of US fuel, perhaps not. I know it's going to be horrendous on fuel, so this is a consideration. Also, I'd like to use a synthetic oil such as Mobil 1 15W50 Motorsport or similar. Is this likely to be suitable? I don't know what the engine capacity is yet. It's probably either a 302 or maybe a 351W. Is there an easy way to tell them apart visually?

US cars have run on unleaded since the early 70's so a crate motor should run on unleaded without any problem. The quality of US fuel is fine and their 91 is the same as our 95. Unleaded will be fine and certainly streets ahead of what was available in the 60's. Synthetic oil should be fine. These are simple iron block engines with hydraulic lifters in stock form so oil changes every 5000 miles (3000 if you're anal) are usually all they require. I don't know much about the differences between the Ford V8's I'm afraid but a Google might assist.

steve-p said:

Servicing - I'm wondering how often it's going to need maintenance. The original service schedule was every 3 months I think but given the number of miles I will be doing, I guess that won't matter so much. It will be laid up over the winter. I have found some nearby specialists but it's still going to be hassle to get stuff done.

The Mustang is very simple mechanically and anyone can service one. Oil changes is about the limit and keeping the distributor in good order. I'm not sure whether the distributor you have is electronic or points or what but apart from rotor arms and changing the distributor cap and possibly the spark plug leads at sensible intervals, that should also be trouble-free.

steve-p said:

Parts - I've noticed that most eBay people in the US won't send stuff to the UK. I'm not expecting to need much, but I'd like to source an original centre console and a repro owner's manual. I can probably get them sent on as a favour from someone who lives in the US, I just wondered if there were any other reliable ways to do it. Also, there are a lot of UK parts suppliers listed in Classic American. Are any of these particularly good?

For reproduction parts (at a price) Year One are probably unbeatable. There are plenty of US suppliers who will supply the UK. For service parts etc, somewhere like US Automotive in the UK are good.

[steve-p]

tdo said:

nice one mate, how much it knock you back? (if you don't mind)

i've been told by the wife i've got to wait till next year

I'll reveal that once I've collected it. Don't want to tempt fate

[steve-p]

LuS1fer said:

The Mustang is very simple mechanically and anyone can service one. Oil changes is about the limit and keeping the distributor in good order. I'm not sure whether the distributor you have is electronic or points or what but apart from rotor arms and changing the distributor cap and possibly the spark plug leads at sensible intervals, that should also be trouble-free.

Thanks for this, and all the other useful info. I will probably use Carolina Classics for service work because they are only 15 miles from me, and their advert says they can provide a loan car which makes it much easier. I think I will probably book it in straight away there and get them to service it. Aso they can tell me if anything looks like it needs attention. And do four barrel Holleys need occasional setup?

[LuS1fer]

Not so much set-up as checking for wear as all sorts of places leak and wear, notably the throttle spindles. The main problem with carbs is usually people messing round with them. LOL.

[steve-p]

LuS1fer said:

Not so much set-up as checking for wear as all sorts of places leak and wear, notably the throttle spindles. The main problem with carbs is usually people messing round with them. LOL.

Hmmm, leaking sounds ominous. Maybe it's time to invest in a fire extinguisher. The last car I had with a carburettor was 20 years ago and it ended in spectactular fashion when it caught fire at 70 mph due to a fuel leak from the carb

[MikeyT]

Steve, Lu51's just putting the frighteners on you - get a fire ex by all means but I think you're far more likely to have a car go up in flames from the all the electric gubbins on them now than some carb catch light - although you once did - surely lightning, twice and all that

[steve-p]

MikeyT said:

Steve, Lu51's just putting the frighteners on you - get a fire ex by all means but I think you're far more likely to have a car go up in flames from the all the electric gubbins on them now than some carb catch light - although you once did - surely lightning, twice and all that

Fair enough. I probably should have paid considerably more attention to the fact that it smelled very rich under the bonnet when cold too It was quite a surprise when the interior suddenly filled with thick black smoke coming through the gearlever gaitor. It's not something that I look forward to repeating.

[bikerkeith]

My Mustang smelt strongly of petrol under the bonnet when I collected it last year. It was the carb. diaphragm but I bought an Autolite repair kit which had all the necessary bits for a complete carb overhaul, so leak cured.