Parts - Price v Quality v Postage and Tax.
Discussion
Due to start a rebuild on a 72 Mach1 soon including parts for a 302 rebuild, plus brakes overhaul etc.
Been looking around the net and although importing from the U.S. is tempting, postage etc looks a bit daunting. Also rang Real Steel and Rodley motors, whose prices seem reasonable, however some people I've spoken to have warned me about cheap imitations that are good copies until they fail.
Any experiences (good and bad) and advise greatfully recieved.
Been looking around the net and although importing from the U.S. is tempting, postage etc looks a bit daunting. Also rang Real Steel and Rodley motors, whose prices seem reasonable, however some people I've spoken to have warned me about cheap imitations that are good copies until they fail.
Any experiences (good and bad) and advise greatfully recieved.
Ron Fenton brings conatiners in regularly and can be found on www.mocgb.net and www.s197.co.uk. It cuts down the shipping costs on larger parts.
Or he's here: http://www.stsimports.co.uk/
Or he's here: http://www.stsimports.co.uk/
I'm restoring the same car, 72 351C Q code, try Laurel Mountain Mustang, Summit Racing, NPD, CJ Pony Parts & Ohio Mustang, shipped parts in from all & 1st class quality so far, shipping is a pia but all round works out the same cost, difference is, I found, the US market is bigger so the US suppliers work on quality though you will have to make some comparisons.
You could always get stuff ground shipped, sometimes free, to Ron Fenton then just pay Ron one collective shipping charge
Shout if you need help.
You could always get stuff ground shipped, sometimes free, to Ron Fenton then just pay Ron one collective shipping charge
Shout if you need help.
Edited by roger1197 on Sunday 11th December 14:28
Thanks Roger, will do. I've done a fair bit of homework with price comparisons and phoning around. Once the restoration gets going and I get more time, I'll have another look around and will keep this thread updated to how I'm going. Luckily the bodywork is in very good condition, so I can save money in that department.
No problem.
I'm 90% done with mechanicals, just a rear main bearing seal to replace, fitted complete MSD, updated charging circuit, uprated suspension, replaced steering and brakes, car was totally rot free so scraped through with a good polish on the bodywork, just interior left to do............
I'm 90% done with mechanicals, just a rear main bearing seal to replace, fitted complete MSD, updated charging circuit, uprated suspension, replaced steering and brakes, car was totally rot free so scraped through with a good polish on the bodywork, just interior left to do............
roger1197 said:
No problem.
I'm 90% done with mechanicals, just a rear main bearing seal to replace, fitted complete MSD, updated charging circuit, uprated suspension, replaced steering and brakes, car was totally rot free so scraped through with a good polish on the bodywork, just interior left to do............
I had the same luck, bodywise. Having owned and broke a few 71 - 73 shapes I was wise to the rust weak points, so knew what to look for.I'm 90% done with mechanicals, just a rear main bearing seal to replace, fitted complete MSD, updated charging circuit, uprated suspension, replaced steering and brakes, car was totally rot free so scraped through with a good polish on the bodywork, just interior left to do............
The car was rescued from a place in Wales and had allegedy been stored for 32 years. After further investigation and phoning DVLA The car hadn't been taxed since 1988 and had been off the road since, so I didn't need to SORN it.
The engine and brakes are siezed, although other things that normaly perish like rubber bushings and rubber seals have survived and look like new.
The car has only done 57,000 miles, with history and is at present at a local workshop, who will kick start the restoration. First thing will be a front end strip, bead blast the front end chassis, rebuild and paint the engine. Paint the engine bay and go through the suspension and brakes, before refitting the front end.
Hopefully the first stint should see it MoT'd and on the road by March ready for summer use, then the bodywork can be sorted next winter.
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