Astra G 1.6 8v Questions
Discussion
Owing to the slightly sudden death of my grandfather, I appear to have inherited his car. It's a 1998 Astra Club 1.6 8v, with no options whatsoever, but it's still motoring. Even has 4 keep fit windows, and no passenger airbag... which was a no cost option to delete.
The car has covered only 28k miles since new, so I'm not worried about any of the suspension or steering components, but is there anything you guys would check, since it's been standing for a few weeks?
Final question, the display at the top of the dash, for the radio/temp and time doesn't work. Is this likely to just be a simple fuse job, or something more serious. I could upgrade the head unit from the radio300 unit the car has, but I would like to retain the functions of the screen, provided I can get it to turn back on.
I can't check anything now, since the car is still down south, but any advice you can give me would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
The car has covered only 28k miles since new, so I'm not worried about any of the suspension or steering components, but is there anything you guys would check, since it's been standing for a few weeks?
Final question, the display at the top of the dash, for the radio/temp and time doesn't work. Is this likely to just be a simple fuse job, or something more serious. I could upgrade the head unit from the radio300 unit the car has, but I would like to retain the functions of the screen, provided I can get it to turn back on.
I can't check anything now, since the car is still down south, but any advice you can give me would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I’ve got the same car, albeit with A/C! Owned it from around 37K, now on 77K in ~5 years. Previous owner was an old biddy that drove it 10 miles a week or something, in the end the head gasket went at around 45K. The only other major problem was the alternator and a few suspension components. Only ever had the normal servicing costs. As far as I know, they are pretty reliable if serviced properly. Whilst it wont set the world on fire performance wise, I have had no difficulty in overtaking on Norfolk roads with its 45mph everywhere drivers. Normal driving sees ~45 mpg, which you can increase to around 50 mpg if doing ~63 mph on the motorway (350/420 miles on a tank (thats to empty!)).
The calendar thing ... If you take the dash off, there is a guide online somewhere, basically involves removing the glove box, undo torx bolts, yank off the black centre console and taking out the unit. If your lucky (like me!) there are a couple of bulbs that can be taken out and replaced, that should hopefully sort it. Or you need a new unit!
So far its been a good runner, no reason to hate it, but I do now have a soft spot for it!
HTH
The calendar thing ... If you take the dash off, there is a guide online somewhere, basically involves removing the glove box, undo torx bolts, yank off the black centre console and taking out the unit. If your lucky (like me!) there are a couple of bulbs that can be taken out and replaced, that should hopefully sort it. Or you need a new unit!
So far its been a good runner, no reason to hate it, but I do now have a soft spot for it!
HTH
Edited by Tokar on Friday 23 October 10:24
I have one as an everyday car (actually a 51 plate dualfuel van). I've had it for several months and have found it easy to live with and quite a pleasant drive. A couple of notes of cautions though:
1. EGR valve Mine is a later spec multipoint injection (Z16SE engine code), and these have a notoriously unreliable EGR valve which is prone to sticking. You won't get any fault codes but the car will stall & refuse to restart and lose power / run badly for a few minutes at a time. I have ultimately blanked off the valve on mine, which so far seems to have cured the problem. If your car is earlier it should have the single point injection engine (16SZR), but I can't tell from the comments on various forums as to whether that is affected too.
2. Stuck thermostat Sticks open, coolant won't warm past 70 degrees or so. Probably not too much of an issue but should be fixed really for long term engine health. Fixing requires removal of cambelt so takes 3 or 4 hours.
4. Oil consumption Mine uses loads although it has responded well to a can of piston seal. Apparently a not unknown problem according to the forums.
Other than that they're a well built good quality car.
Good luck!
1. EGR valve Mine is a later spec multipoint injection (Z16SE engine code), and these have a notoriously unreliable EGR valve which is prone to sticking. You won't get any fault codes but the car will stall & refuse to restart and lose power / run badly for a few minutes at a time. I have ultimately blanked off the valve on mine, which so far seems to have cured the problem. If your car is earlier it should have the single point injection engine (16SZR), but I can't tell from the comments on various forums as to whether that is affected too.
2. Stuck thermostat Sticks open, coolant won't warm past 70 degrees or so. Probably not too much of an issue but should be fixed really for long term engine health. Fixing requires removal of cambelt so takes 3 or 4 hours.
4. Oil consumption Mine uses loads although it has responded well to a can of piston seal. Apparently a not unknown problem according to the forums.
Other than that they're a well built good quality car.
Good luck!
hardcorehobbit said:
Final question, the display at the top of the dash, for the radio/temp and time doesn't work. Is this likely to just be a simple fuse job, or something more serious. I could upgrade the head unit from the radio300 unit the car has, but I would like to retain the functions of the screen, provided I can get it to turn back on.
Likely the bulbs gone behind the LCD. Easy fix.Otherwise, the X16SZR is a good old lump, just be aware they collect a lot of mayo in the rocker cover due to a crappy breather design, and the rubber seal between the inlet plenum and throttle body can doze letting air in and making them run a bit lean. Otherwise very little goes wrong with them. Just avoid engine flush as it can and will totally screw the hydraulic tappets.
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