VX220 Inspection -Glasgow
Discussion
Trouble is that if you pay for an AA/RAC type inspection, they won't have a clue what to look for as they are more used to inpecting Modeo's/Zafira's etc etc.
If you can be bothered to read it, here's a list of stuff I wrote up to check for when I was buying mine;
If you can be bothered to read it, here's a list of stuff I wrote up to check for when I was buying mine;
pincher said:
Visual
Chassis number
- plate at the bottom of the dash on the passenger side, viewable from outside through the windscreen.
- sticker near the door catch (drivers side)
- stamped onto the chassis, if you look through the drivers side front wheel (just in front of the suspension strut when you look through).
Do the boot release and bonnet release work with no problems? Careful opening the front bonnet as it can foul on the wiper arm and chip the paint
In theory, there should be a couple of blobs of coloured paint on the brake servo under the front bonnet that are meant to signify the fact the recalls have been done but it seems a bit hit and miss.
Check colour of the brake fluid in the reservoir under the front bonnet; shouldn’t be black and might be a sign that the car has seen some heavy braking action. Or is overdue a fluid change.
Coolant level should be at the seam on the bottle once warm
Coolant or brake warning light can come on under hard cornering and usually isn’t anything more than slightly low fluid levels.
Don’t worry when you see the orangey/red glue along some of the joints in the aluminium tub both on the outside of the car and up underneath the dash – it’s normal.
Only real rusty spot on the car is usually the suspension wishbones and this is only surface rust.
Looking into the engine bay from the back of the car, at the bottom left of the engine is the gearbox with the two selector cables visible. It’s possible there may be a bit of fluid where the bell housing joins the engine but only a very small amount and there shouldn’t be any noticeable amount on the inside of the undertray (might be worth taking a torch to see with). If there is a fine spray of oil to the left side of the engine bay, this could be the oil breather vents on the gearbox having vented some transmission fluid. Only really happens on track when the fluid is hot and under long high-g corners – again a hint that it might have been tracked. It’s not a problem and there is an easy DIY mod to stop it doing this.
See if the rear wheels have the HT stamp on back of the spokes (quite hard to spot though).
Tyres should be Bridgestone Potenza RE040’s and they are a specific fit for the VX
Condensation in any of the lights? If so, not a problem – fixable
Exhaust heatshield – missing? Usually is!
Windows may well rattle in their runners and is normal
Mesh on the side intake vents can be a little loose but isn’t a sign of a problem
Check the LED’s in the light switches - should all illuminate but sometimes the LED fails (and in the case of the headlight switch that might be an MOT failure). Doesn’t usually affect the actual operation of the switches and is easily replaced.
Undo the soft-top and check the seals along the top of the windscreen and rear rollover bar to make sure they’re not split. Easy to replace but they’re about £140 a pop
Check both keys work on both door locks (no central locking here!) and check whether the alarm siren works (either chirping on arm/disarm or by setting it off) as they tend to die but still immobilise the car.
Newly serviced, so oil levels and quality should still be okay but obviously check for any mayonnaise in the top of the engine
Driving
Steering will feel light and nervous at 80+mph - that’s the way they are. Whatever, it should drive straight and not noticeably pull (unless the road has a pronounced camber).
No way to visually inspect the two side engine mounts that are prone to failure. It’s a case of listening for a grating or knocking noise under hard acceleration in first and second (or third if they’re really bad). Knocking would definitely point to mounts although a grating/rattling noise may only be a loose undertray.
Be wary if the gearbox resists changing from 3rd to 4th (and sometimes 2nd to 3rd), this could indicate a worn selector fork in the gearbox which is a rebuild job.
Other - confirm all service stamps and service history
- should have had a service at 1,000 miles then 10,000 mile services since then every 12 months, and maybe additional optional oil changes
-get VIN Number from V5 & check to car
- get V5 date of issue & serial number for HPI check
QUESTIONS TO ASK
- Have it been in for any warranty work, for leaks or anything else? Paint bubbles on clam?
- Any trackday use?
- Do the boot release and bonnet release work with no problems?
- Do the heater controls work fully? (e.g. rotate smoothly)
- Is the heater effective? Ask if the 'Sock mod' is done (stops flies and stones from being blown into the drivers face!)
- Do the drivers seat runners have any play in them, e.g. does the seat rock/move under acceleration, cornering, etc.?
- Does the radiator fan work? What temperature does it kick in at?
- Do you have the locking wheel nut key (IMPORTANT)?
- Does it vehicle have any accident history or outstanding finance?
- Bag for the soft-top?
Chassis number
- plate at the bottom of the dash on the passenger side, viewable from outside through the windscreen.
- sticker near the door catch (drivers side)
- stamped onto the chassis, if you look through the drivers side front wheel (just in front of the suspension strut when you look through).
Do the boot release and bonnet release work with no problems? Careful opening the front bonnet as it can foul on the wiper arm and chip the paint
In theory, there should be a couple of blobs of coloured paint on the brake servo under the front bonnet that are meant to signify the fact the recalls have been done but it seems a bit hit and miss.
Check colour of the brake fluid in the reservoir under the front bonnet; shouldn’t be black and might be a sign that the car has seen some heavy braking action. Or is overdue a fluid change.
Coolant level should be at the seam on the bottle once warm
Coolant or brake warning light can come on under hard cornering and usually isn’t anything more than slightly low fluid levels.
Don’t worry when you see the orangey/red glue along some of the joints in the aluminium tub both on the outside of the car and up underneath the dash – it’s normal.
Only real rusty spot on the car is usually the suspension wishbones and this is only surface rust.
Looking into the engine bay from the back of the car, at the bottom left of the engine is the gearbox with the two selector cables visible. It’s possible there may be a bit of fluid where the bell housing joins the engine but only a very small amount and there shouldn’t be any noticeable amount on the inside of the undertray (might be worth taking a torch to see with). If there is a fine spray of oil to the left side of the engine bay, this could be the oil breather vents on the gearbox having vented some transmission fluid. Only really happens on track when the fluid is hot and under long high-g corners – again a hint that it might have been tracked. It’s not a problem and there is an easy DIY mod to stop it doing this.
See if the rear wheels have the HT stamp on back of the spokes (quite hard to spot though).
Tyres should be Bridgestone Potenza RE040’s and they are a specific fit for the VX
Condensation in any of the lights? If so, not a problem – fixable
Exhaust heatshield – missing? Usually is!
Windows may well rattle in their runners and is normal
Mesh on the side intake vents can be a little loose but isn’t a sign of a problem
Check the LED’s in the light switches - should all illuminate but sometimes the LED fails (and in the case of the headlight switch that might be an MOT failure). Doesn’t usually affect the actual operation of the switches and is easily replaced.
Undo the soft-top and check the seals along the top of the windscreen and rear rollover bar to make sure they’re not split. Easy to replace but they’re about £140 a pop
Check both keys work on both door locks (no central locking here!) and check whether the alarm siren works (either chirping on arm/disarm or by setting it off) as they tend to die but still immobilise the car.
Newly serviced, so oil levels and quality should still be okay but obviously check for any mayonnaise in the top of the engine
Driving
Steering will feel light and nervous at 80+mph - that’s the way they are. Whatever, it should drive straight and not noticeably pull (unless the road has a pronounced camber).
No way to visually inspect the two side engine mounts that are prone to failure. It’s a case of listening for a grating or knocking noise under hard acceleration in first and second (or third if they’re really bad). Knocking would definitely point to mounts although a grating/rattling noise may only be a loose undertray.
Be wary if the gearbox resists changing from 3rd to 4th (and sometimes 2nd to 3rd), this could indicate a worn selector fork in the gearbox which is a rebuild job.
Other - confirm all service stamps and service history
- should have had a service at 1,000 miles then 10,000 mile services since then every 12 months, and maybe additional optional oil changes
-get VIN Number from V5 & check to car
- get V5 date of issue & serial number for HPI check
QUESTIONS TO ASK
- Have it been in for any warranty work, for leaks or anything else? Paint bubbles on clam?
- Any trackday use?
- Do the boot release and bonnet release work with no problems?
- Do the heater controls work fully? (e.g. rotate smoothly)
- Is the heater effective? Ask if the 'Sock mod' is done (stops flies and stones from being blown into the drivers face!)
- Do the drivers seat runners have any play in them, e.g. does the seat rock/move under acceleration, cornering, etc.?
- Does the radiator fan work? What temperature does it kick in at?
- Do you have the locking wheel nut key (IMPORTANT)?
- Does it vehicle have any accident history or outstanding finance?
- Bag for the soft-top?
Edited by pincher on Thursday 19th February 11:52
For what it's worth, I had the RAC check out my TVR when I bought it nine years ago and it was well worth the money. Also, the engineer will often chat with the garage owner to put a few things right with no charge.
Also, they send out guys with experience of the cars you're looking at. The guy knew more about TVR's than I did and I had been a member for 2 years. Think it is cheaper now too!
Best of luck anyway - I fancy a VX too!
Also, they send out guys with experience of the cars you're looking at. The guy knew more about TVR's than I did and I had been a member for 2 years. Think it is cheaper now too!
Best of luck anyway - I fancy a VX too!
Edited by Heathyboy on Wednesday 25th February 15:44
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