Swirl valves / throttle actuator Vauxhall Vectra / Signum
Discussion
Hi there, new poster so thanks for any help you can offer me! There are quite a few Q’s, but any answers to any of them will be hugely appreciated.
I’m mechanically ‘aware’ but am not an expert at all, and don’t really do work on cars myself.
My wife's Vauxhall Signum (which as far as I know is mechanically the same as the vectra as far as the engine bay is concerned) has the following problem(s);
HISTORY:
- The engine stutters and inconsistently loses significant power (to the point of having to pull over!). It has had this issue in various guises for a while.
- first off the garage replaced an injector, which improved things for a while.
- pretty sure the DPF was changed also.
NOW:
- The garage reports a fault P1125 which they are telling me is the throttle actuator, and around £245 Inc vat to fix.
- However whilst viewing this they have noticed the bar controlling the swirl valves on the manifold is disconnected/broken and want £700-800 to fix this.
- The vehicle is probably worth £600-900 but has just been fully serviced, taxed, and has a full tank! J so if its economical I would like to patch it up and get some more life out of it!
- Regarding the swirl valves, after some reading up, it sounds like I might be able to get an ECG blanking plate and fit this. Whilst not a fully reliable long term fix, this should sort it for some months I understand. However, when the ECG plate is fitted do the swift valves need to be ‘locked’ open (?) or does it no longer matter as there will be no exhaust gas getting to them?
If they do need to be open, then what’s the easiest way of achieving this? I’ve heard they can be manipulated using a long screw driver, but I guess they might then move again, depending on how clogged up they are. I suspect they will be clogged up, which might at least mean I can move them and they are likely to stay put.
Assuming I can sort the Swirl valves cheaply... (as if I can’t it’s the knackers yard!)
I’m wondering if the swirl valve issue be causing / linked to the throttle actuator error. If so perhaps there is a way of cleaning and applying some lube and it might work again. If not I guess I will have to pay the £245, which might be worth it if I’ve sorted the swirl valves very cheaply.
I feel like the swirl valves we’re probably the cause all along, and many of the other items have probably been replaced due to this, but who knows.
Thanks!
JT
I’m mechanically ‘aware’ but am not an expert at all, and don’t really do work on cars myself.
My wife's Vauxhall Signum (which as far as I know is mechanically the same as the vectra as far as the engine bay is concerned) has the following problem(s);
HISTORY:
- The engine stutters and inconsistently loses significant power (to the point of having to pull over!). It has had this issue in various guises for a while.
- first off the garage replaced an injector, which improved things for a while.
- pretty sure the DPF was changed also.
NOW:
- The garage reports a fault P1125 which they are telling me is the throttle actuator, and around £245 Inc vat to fix.
- However whilst viewing this they have noticed the bar controlling the swirl valves on the manifold is disconnected/broken and want £700-800 to fix this.
- The vehicle is probably worth £600-900 but has just been fully serviced, taxed, and has a full tank! J so if its economical I would like to patch it up and get some more life out of it!
- Regarding the swirl valves, after some reading up, it sounds like I might be able to get an ECG blanking plate and fit this. Whilst not a fully reliable long term fix, this should sort it for some months I understand. However, when the ECG plate is fitted do the swift valves need to be ‘locked’ open (?) or does it no longer matter as there will be no exhaust gas getting to them?
If they do need to be open, then what’s the easiest way of achieving this? I’ve heard they can be manipulated using a long screw driver, but I guess they might then move again, depending on how clogged up they are. I suspect they will be clogged up, which might at least mean I can move them and they are likely to stay put.
Assuming I can sort the Swirl valves cheaply... (as if I can’t it’s the knackers yard!)
I’m wondering if the swirl valve issue be causing / linked to the throttle actuator error. If so perhaps there is a way of cleaning and applying some lube and it might work again. If not I guess I will have to pay the £245, which might be worth it if I’ve sorted the swirl valves very cheaply.
I feel like the swirl valves we’re probably the cause all along, and many of the other items have probably been replaced due to this, but who knows.
Thanks!
JT
JohnT993 said:
Hi there, new poster so thanks for any help you can offer me! There are quite a few Q’s, but any answers to any of them will be hugely appreciated.
I’m mechanically ‘aware’ but am not an expert at all, and don’t really do work on cars myself.
My wife's Vauxhall Signum (which as far as I know is mechanically the same as the vectra as far as the engine bay is concerned) has the following problem(s);
HISTORY:
- The engine stutters and inconsistently loses significant power (to the point of having to pull over!). It has had this issue in various guises for a while.
- first off the garage replaced an injector, which improved things for a while.
- pretty sure the DPF was changed also.
NOW:
- The garage reports a fault P1125 which they are telling me is the throttle actuator, and around £245 Inc vat to fix.
- However whilst viewing this they have noticed the bar controlling the swirl valves on the manifold is disconnected/broken and want £700-800 to fix this.
- The vehicle is probably worth £600-900 but has just been fully serviced, taxed, and has a full tank! J so if its economical I would like to patch it up and get some more life out of it!
- Regarding the swirl valves, after some reading up, it sounds like I might be able to get an ECG blanking plate and fit this. Whilst not a fully reliable long term fix, this should sort it for some months I understand. However, when the ECG plate is fitted do the swift valves need to be ‘locked’ open (?) or does it no longer matter as there will be no exhaust gas getting to them?
If they do need to be open, then what’s the easiest way of achieving this? I’ve heard they can be manipulated using a long screw driver, but I guess they might then move again, depending on how clogged up they are. I suspect they will be clogged up, which might at least mean I can move them and they are likely to stay put.
Assuming I can sort the Swirl valves cheaply... (as if I can’t it’s the knackers yard!)
I’m wondering if the swirl valve issue be causing / linked to the throttle actuator error. If so perhaps there is a way of cleaning and applying some lube and it might work again. If not I guess I will have to pay the £245, which might be worth it if I’ve sorted the swirl valves very cheaply.
I feel like the swirl valves we’re probably the cause all along, and many of the other items have probably been replaced due to this, but who knows.
Thanks!
JT
That can be fixed for considerably less than that.I’m mechanically ‘aware’ but am not an expert at all, and don’t really do work on cars myself.
My wife's Vauxhall Signum (which as far as I know is mechanically the same as the vectra as far as the engine bay is concerned) has the following problem(s);
HISTORY:
- The engine stutters and inconsistently loses significant power (to the point of having to pull over!). It has had this issue in various guises for a while.
- first off the garage replaced an injector, which improved things for a while.
- pretty sure the DPF was changed also.
NOW:
- The garage reports a fault P1125 which they are telling me is the throttle actuator, and around £245 Inc vat to fix.
- However whilst viewing this they have noticed the bar controlling the swirl valves on the manifold is disconnected/broken and want £700-800 to fix this.
- The vehicle is probably worth £600-900 but has just been fully serviced, taxed, and has a full tank! J so if its economical I would like to patch it up and get some more life out of it!
- Regarding the swirl valves, after some reading up, it sounds like I might be able to get an ECG blanking plate and fit this. Whilst not a fully reliable long term fix, this should sort it for some months I understand. However, when the ECG plate is fitted do the swift valves need to be ‘locked’ open (?) or does it no longer matter as there will be no exhaust gas getting to them?
If they do need to be open, then what’s the easiest way of achieving this? I’ve heard they can be manipulated using a long screw driver, but I guess they might then move again, depending on how clogged up they are. I suspect they will be clogged up, which might at least mean I can move them and they are likely to stay put.
Assuming I can sort the Swirl valves cheaply... (as if I can’t it’s the knackers yard!)
I’m wondering if the swirl valve issue be causing / linked to the throttle actuator error. If so perhaps there is a way of cleaning and applying some lube and it might work again. If not I guess I will have to pay the £245, which might be worth it if I’ve sorted the swirl valves very cheaply.
I feel like the swirl valves we’re probably the cause all along, and many of the other items have probably been replaced due to this, but who knows.
Thanks!
JT
Firstly your throttle fault code. Oil works its way past the seals on the throttle body into the electronics and plays havoc. Remove the throttle body, it just unplugs and unbolts, and it should be relatively obvious how the electronics side comes apart. If not, there's how to guides on a few of the Vectra forums. Reassemble and put it back on. Job done.
Secondly your inlet manifold. I'm assuming it's the 150bhp engine which also has this common fault. To fix this, buy the manifold removal kit from eBay or LMF Vauxhall. It is a kit that removes the valves from the manifold. The kit is about £40 and I wouldn't expect to pay any more than £300 in labour for this to be fitted. The manifold can be removed without taking the timing belt off (fuel pump is in the way, but the pulley can be locked in place and the pump removed from the pulley so the belt does not have to be disturbed). There is a part number on your manifold, there's two types. Buy the blanking kit for the correct one or it won't fit. Part number is on the right hand side of the manifold at the top so can be seen when just removing the engine cover. The EGR does not need to be locked open with the manifold flaps removed. It can work normally.
Remap it. You'll get an extra 40-50bhp out of this engine very safely (I have one myself doing 230bhp with a hybrid turbo and 176,000 miles on it. It just won't die). It's a good strong engine. Ask for a fault code delete for the EGR. It'll be P0400 insufficient flow. Have that done then fit a square type blanking plate to the manifold. They're easily available on eBay. Look for the one with 4 bolt holes in. They're much easier to fit.
The remap is optional, but depends on if having the engine management light on for an EGR error will bother you or not.
Total cost for this:
£free for the throttle valve if a clean internally sorts it, if not £50 from a scrap yard. Chances of getting two duff ones are slim.
£40 for blanking kit for manifold and £300 tops in labour to fit.
£200 for a remap with EGR fault code delete. I guarantee that is the fault code you will get when putting the blanking plate in so specify that one.
Edited by twink on Monday 28th September 09:06
Thanks for the info!
I took the throttle body actuator off and cleaned it up on saturday morning, it was movable, but very dirty inside the flap. The electronics looked absolutely fine though. Problem is I must have dislodged a load of soot in the manifold, and couldn't get it all out, so she's now refusing to start.
Not sure if jump starting her would work.
Might wait until I have a friend with a tow bar handy so I don't get stranded at the bottom of our hill!
I took the throttle body actuator off and cleaned it up on saturday morning, it was movable, but very dirty inside the flap. The electronics looked absolutely fine though. Problem is I must have dislodged a load of soot in the manifold, and couldn't get it all out, so she's now refusing to start.
Not sure if jump starting her would work.
Might wait until I have a friend with a tow bar handy so I don't get stranded at the bottom of our hill!
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