Starter Motor problems - any ideas?
Discussion
Bought a new starter motor for our 1.8 K series SV in the height of summer last season as it was suffering from K series click. No problems since but just happened again, yet it's much cooler and wasn't running that hot. wouldn't even start when cooled down. A tap worked onec but not again. Not good. Anyone put in a heat shield between the moror an manifold? or Caterham have Bosch Manufactured Starter Motors now - are these any better (about £60 dearer). The part # for the current one is 70264, the Rover one. Has been fine since last summer but this is a real pain. Any ideas - apart from "buy a Sigma" Any thoughts appreciated
catmatt said:
I have heard good things about Brise starter motors. Possibly worth a look.
I killed a starter motor, driving from Suffolk to Scotland and back.
They d have a reputation for being devoid of all the problems that you usually get with a K series oneI killed a starter motor, driving from Suffolk to Scotland and back.
http://www.brise.co.uk/Caterham_starter_motors.htm...
The only downside is I ordered a Brise starter motor for my 1.8VVC engine. The bracket was a bit thick. They send me another one after I called them. Again too thick. No reaction after that, so we had to machine a just over 1 mm off of it so to make some some space for the flywheel. Not exactly sure if it's in understandable English.
Nothing happens at all? It may just be the feed to the solenoid that's fried. It just has a spade connector on the end and the wire itself is close to the manifold. Make up a lead with a spade connector and fit that then dab the other end on battery +ve.
My preferred solution is a relay feeding the solenoid direct from the battery plus a slight rewiring so the starter has its own main feed direct from the battery, with the rest of the electrics going via the battery isolator switch (if you have one) - another source of lost volts.
My preferred solution is a relay feeding the solenoid direct from the battery plus a slight rewiring so the starter has its own main feed direct from the battery, with the rest of the electrics going via the battery isolator switch (if you have one) - another source of lost volts.
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