Continued fuel pump woes
Discussion
Right, the "remove the resin seal, clean up connections and reseal" that my local specialist garage carried out fixed my fuel pump problem.
For two days.
Went out for a bit of a blast on Sunday, as it was such a lovely day. Out for over an hour, just driving around town with no problems whatsoever.
Then I decided to head for home and it suddenly just died. Again, no sound of the pump priming when the ignition is turned on.
I've spoken today to the garage and they are saying that if it wasn't the fix that they thought it was, we now may be talking a replacement pump - possibly "outboard" as the in-tank pump is no longer available from Caterham - and lots of work (and money).
A bit of a search on Blatchat threw up this - is this a straight replacement for the in-tank pump?
For two days.
Went out for a bit of a blast on Sunday, as it was such a lovely day. Out for over an hour, just driving around town with no problems whatsoever.
Then I decided to head for home and it suddenly just died. Again, no sound of the pump priming when the ignition is turned on.
I've spoken today to the garage and they are saying that if it wasn't the fix that they thought it was, we now may be talking a replacement pump - possibly "outboard" as the in-tank pump is no longer available from Caterham - and lots of work (and money).
A bit of a search on Blatchat threw up this - is this a straight replacement for the in-tank pump?
CW,
Sorry to hear of your ongoing problems. In an attempt to sort out my car (EU2 1.8) dying on an intermittent basis, I swapped out the fuel pump for the same item from Merlin. Excellent service from John there.
The swap didn't cure my issue, which I think I have tracked down to a dodgy connection in the dizzy cap from the coil. I swapped the dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT lead from the coil to cap and (fingers crossed) it is now OK.
As regards the pump swap, note that the polarity of the connectors may well be reversed; it was on mine. Both the existing and new pumps have + and - against their electrical connectors, so it is easy to tell if you look hard at 'em. It is a bit of a bugger as the connectors are different sizes to ensure that you don't get them the wrong way round, but in this case you want to; I cut and re-soldered the connectors on the new pump - well away from the car if you have the tank in bits!
I would also recommend getting a new pump gasket (Rover part number EDP9317) at the same time. I also removed the fuel gauge sender unit and ended up getting a new gasket for that as well as I had a small weep from the sender after I refitted everything. I got the sender gasket from Caterham.
Sorry to hear of your ongoing problems. In an attempt to sort out my car (EU2 1.8) dying on an intermittent basis, I swapped out the fuel pump for the same item from Merlin. Excellent service from John there.
The swap didn't cure my issue, which I think I have tracked down to a dodgy connection in the dizzy cap from the coil. I swapped the dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT lead from the coil to cap and (fingers crossed) it is now OK.
As regards the pump swap, note that the polarity of the connectors may well be reversed; it was on mine. Both the existing and new pumps have + and - against their electrical connectors, so it is easy to tell if you look hard at 'em. It is a bit of a bugger as the connectors are different sizes to ensure that you don't get them the wrong way round, but in this case you want to; I cut and re-soldered the connectors on the new pump - well away from the car if you have the tank in bits!
I would also recommend getting a new pump gasket (Rover part number EDP9317) at the same time. I also removed the fuel gauge sender unit and ended up getting a new gasket for that as well as I had a small weep from the sender after I refitted everything. I got the sender gasket from Caterham.
Bloody b
d thing just started - first time!
I was popping to the shops and thought I'd take the car keys with me and just give her a try to see - you know - if she'd miraculously repaired herself.
Turns out she had.
So, an intermittent fault.
Oh, they're the easiest ones to diagnose, aren't they?
d thing just started - first time!I was popping to the shops and thought I'd take the car keys with me and just give her a try to see - you know - if she'd miraculously repaired herself.
Turns out she had.
So, an intermittent fault.
Oh, they're the easiest ones to diagnose, aren't they?
I had a similar intermittant fault which also resulted in being stranded! The symptom was that when it faulted, if the car started it would run for 10 seconds or so and then die. If it didn't start there was also no sign of life from the fuel pump. The problem was eventually traced to a bad connection at the inertia switch.
Caterham have 20 complete in tank fuel pump assemblies in stock right now according to their on-line store - http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_prod...
If you think it is just the pump itself then the Merlin one would be worth a go.
Another thing to check is the MFRU (the black box under your ECU) which houses the fuel pump relay. The relays can corrode and stick - you could try bypassing the relay or pull the MFRU apart and clean the relay contacts (or just get a new one).
Also check the main purple wire which feeds power to the engine loom - there is a connector in it near the ECU which on my car came loose once resulting in non-starting!
If you think it is just the pump itself then the Merlin one would be worth a go.
Another thing to check is the MFRU (the black box under your ECU) which houses the fuel pump relay. The relays can corrode and stick - you could try bypassing the relay or pull the MFRU apart and clean the relay contacts (or just get a new one).
Also check the main purple wire which feeds power to the engine loom - there is a connector in it near the ECU which on my car came loose once resulting in non-starting!
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