How Do You Torque This?
Discussion
I'm in the middle of building my first Caterham. The assembly guide says to torque the gearbox/bell-housing bolts to 47Nm. I've got a pretty standard socket set, but there's no way I can fit the socket in (see photo), and therefore can't use my torque wrench. I can tighten it up with a standard allen key, but obviously not to a specific torque. I've had a quick search for smaller sockets or specialist tools but can't find anything. I'm assuming there's a very simple answer to this!
I have a similar issue with the flexible brake hoses that go to the front callipers. The securing nut is on the end of the hose, so only an open-ended spanner can be used - yet the assembly guide says to torque it to 10Nm. Again, there must be a simple answer! I am somewhat of a novice at this...
Help would be gratefully received.
Many thanks
I have a similar issue with the flexible brake hoses that go to the front callipers. The securing nut is on the end of the hose, so only an open-ended spanner can be used - yet the assembly guide says to torque it to 10Nm. Again, there must be a simple answer! I am somewhat of a novice at this...
Help would be gratefully received.
Many thanks
I would not worry about the specific torque that much, however you can get a gimbal and wobbly extension in there and then use your torque wrench, I have done so on my previous R400 and my current R500 too.
Much the same on the brake lines, as you say it needs two spanners, so do it tight but not too tight using the two spanners, and it will be fine.
Much the same on the brake lines, as you say it needs two spanners, so do it tight but not too tight using the two spanners, and it will be fine.
Use the standard allen key and then use a short extension with a hole in it to drive the allen key. If the torque wrench is at right angles to the allen key then it will be near enough the correct torque.
If you don't have an extension with an hole in it, then drill, or file a u section in an old socket.
Edit
Re the brake pipe - just practice what 10 Nm feels like with wrench and that will be near enough. Overtightening is easy, so to go easy. They'll check them for you at the post build check so under doing it should be picked up.
If you don't have an extension with an hole in it, then drill, or file a u section in an old socket.
Edit
Re the brake pipe - just practice what 10 Nm feels like with wrench and that will be near enough. Overtightening is easy, so to go easy. They'll check them for you at the post build check so under doing it should be picked up.
Edited by David Long on Thursday 30th December 18:27
Thanks guys :-). Dave J - the socket extension doesn't work as the socket itself doesn't fit. Funnily enough I do have that exact socket set. I don't have anything suitable with a hole in though and don't fancy drilling/cutting up a socket, so I think I'm just going to settle for "very tight" with the allen key!
This is where Mr Dremel Tool is such good fun
Take a set of allen keys, a set of cutter discs, some protective glasses and make your own keys. Worst comes worst, you use an adjustable spanner on the resulting smaller key and you can still lock em down.
And spend the £99 on more important stuff
Take a set of allen keys, a set of cutter discs, some protective glasses and make your own keys. Worst comes worst, you use an adjustable spanner on the resulting smaller key and you can still lock em down.
And spend the £99 on more important stuff
Try this:
if embed doesn't work
That middle section is a tommy bar adapter from my Irimo socket set, which has a 3/8" female hole on the top, and a 1/2" drive on the bottom. The space where the tommy bar would go through allows me to drive the 'L' foot of the allen key.
For torqueing open ended spanner-able items, you need a set of crows foot spanners. I got a set each of metric and imperial. They come in very handy for all sorts of stuff on the car, often in conjunction with a 1/4" drive extension. Brake unions are a speciality.
if embed doesn't work
That middle section is a tommy bar adapter from my Irimo socket set, which has a 3/8" female hole on the top, and a 1/2" drive on the bottom. The space where the tommy bar would go through allows me to drive the 'L' foot of the allen key.
For torqueing open ended spanner-able items, you need a set of crows foot spanners. I got a set each of metric and imperial. They come in very handy for all sorts of stuff on the car, often in conjunction with a 1/4" drive extension. Brake unions are a speciality.
Edited by Nicodema on Friday 31st December 14:46
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