Panelling

[jamesnormandale]

I am bringig my 200 chassis back to life under an R400 specification and want to have the chassis powder coated and the panelling repainted.

I am have decided to have my chassis re-powder coated by Arch Motor & Manufacturing Co Ltd in Huntingdon, Cambridgeshire who Caterham use.

I want to retaining my existing panelling and have it painted, however I have been informed by Arch that removing the panelling can be difficult and not worth it. Apparently Arch tell me this not worth removing the panelling as this causes me harm tha good.

Does anyone have any experience removing the outer skin and fitting it back? Is it worth it or should I have new fitted?

Cheers

[Nicodema]

Get them to strip it and repanel, then get the new panels painted by someone who really knows what they're doing with aluminium. In order to reapply the powder coat they need the whole chassis stripped of aluminium. Removing the aluminium is a one shot deal as it is beaten around the tubing in the first place.

We went round the Arch factory a couple of months ago. They used to do all the chassis and skin work, now just the CSR, but now also do the Ariel Atoms. Bruce is a great guy, very knowledgeable and honest.

Martyn

[Tango7]

Absolutely as Martyn says. It would be false economy to try and use the old panels as it would cost far more in the labour to preserve and refit them than having a new set fitted. If you have the chassis checked over and re-powdercoated, all new panels will be fit and it will come back just like a new one - don't forget though that it will have no holes in at all unless you specify them (with more labour and cost) in which case make some decent templates up and take plenty of pictures!

[jamesnormandale]

If I remove the existing panelling and intend to sell it, is it worth anything?

Cheers

[V7SLR]

Not really. More useful to just store some and use when you need an offcut of ally sheet for something - it's a good quality aluminium.

Stu.

[Noger]

Yes, repanel it.

[Nicodema]

James, if you have a look at my Damage set on flickr you can see the chavelled edges you get on the panels taken off the chassis. The panel is pretty much scrap, but then you could try getting beer money for it from a scrap metal guy, or as suggested keep some of it for future projects and recycle the rest.

BTW, welcome aboard. I hadn't noticed this was your first post.

Martyn

[mickrick]

As much as I like Arch's chassis, I find the paneling a bit rough.
I have a 2007 Arch SV chassis, and for example, around the spare wheel carrier is roughly cut with tin snips, with a sharp piece sticking out.
Around the Watts linkage boss's look like they've been chewed through by a mouse, un de-burred edges etc.
Also the distortion of the sideskins could be avoided by putting a slightly unpeceptable curve in them to stiffen them.

I've since had work done by Geoff Moss, at MPH, and it's 100% better.
http://www.mphmotorpanels.com/index.htm

[Noger]

Handy

[jonboylaw]

I had a new long front put on mine by Bruce, it was then powder coated and re-panelled. The Chassis is like new. Sure it cost more but you will be so happy with the results, and yes, make templates for any holes you want. I got Bruce to put the holes in mine but had to fettle the exhaust hole to get it perfect..

Speak to Bruce and take his advice or as per other recommendations.

Jon

[EFA]

A somewhat complex project in my garage has forced me to learn the art of ally forming.

You can remove and refit the panels. many crash repairs are doen this way. It's an art getting the whole lot off, especially along the door sills where you will need to peel the bends off the tubes a little, but it can be done, and if you do tear it, it can always be welded back.


I would suggest removing all of the old paint and prepping the ally (including flatting any dents) before you remove it from the chassis.

You may want to buy new footwells as these are hard to get off without damage.

Then just get it blasted, PHOSPHATED (this is the only way to get the powder to really adhere to the chassis long term), and re-powder coated (two coats). That'll cost you £3-500.

Putting the skin back on can be done with some softwood formers and some hide mallets.

Remove from the front, refit from the rear. Drill out all rivetts first!

[jonboylaw]

^ Masochist

Arnie, is this the Fezza or another project ?

BTW, I am interested in a set of Track Rod ends, will mail you.

Jon

[EFA]

Fezza Jon. It has an alloy dash fashioned over a fabricated spaceframe, instead of the nasty GRP item in the kit.

[mickrick]

Another likeminded soul, who likes a bit of ally, instead of the dreaded frozen snot!

[6speedmanual]

When Arch put a new long front on the spaceframe, they sometimes just "spring" teh body side panels away to the side then rivet them back onto the new front section.

However, back to the OP, if the whole frame is to be shot blasted and recoated, Then the panels do have to come right off. It would be a false economy to try to reuse them. With new skins, you will have an almost new car effect.

P