A few Questions re. ex-Academy Cars

[timrw81]

Hi,

I'm starting to look at purchasing my first 7. A Sigma ex-Academy car looks like a great proposition, having much of the things I'd spec if I bought new, like Tillett Seats, wide track, adjustable springs/dampers, 13" wheels, lowered floors. I'm not bothered about a lot of power.

For example... http://www.caterham.co.uk/assets/html/preowned/pre...

If I have any spare cash, I'd probably change the differential to LSD. Is this easily done and not TOO expensive?

Plus, they all seem to have roll-cages. Would the Caterham hood fit over this type of cage?

Regards,

Tim

Edited by timrw81 on Saturday 25th September 15:51

[Murray993]

I have driven a car with a similar cage on the track and I found it very cumbersome to get in and out. OK for the track but I'm not sure I could live with it on the road.

[Golf Juliet Tang]

I think that hoods do not fit over cages. But check with Caterham.
Ask yourself why you are looking for a cage and why you might / whether you want a hood.
Most drivers with cages on their cars get in from above (just an observation) seems to be OK to me.

[Golf Juliet Tang]

I think that hoods do not fit over cages. But check with Caterham.
Ask yourself why you are looking for a cage and why you might / whether you want a hood.
Most drivers with cages on their cars get in from above (just an observation) seems to be OK to me.

[Matt W]

Roadsport cages are designed so that a hood can be erected so I'm pretty sure you could put a hood up on that car.

I have never had any problems getting in and out with my cage fitted but there is a knack to it.

[Matt W]

I've just found various pics of the Pistonheads Academy car with a hood up: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=101...

[Tango7]

Just like my Sigma Academy car and the standard weathergear fits fine with the roadsports cage so you can use doors and full hood or half hood if you want. Changing the diff to an LSD is straightforward too and will probably take less than an afternoon to remove the unit and similar to put it back even if you are inexperienced. Take the original open diff unit to somewhere like Road & Race or SPC and they should be able to fit an LSD within a few hours. Not sure on cost but I would expect £800-1000 depending on the LSD and what work is needed on reconditioning the unit for replacement (new seals, setup etc.)

I have regularly used my Academy car on the road and had no problems with getting in and out of the cage. There is a bit of a knack but its pretty straightforward

[timrw81]

Thanks chaps. All good news then.

I have got this right haven't I... In the listing for the yellow car i linked to above, it has "wide track wishbones", "race dampers" and "adjustable spring platforms". Does that mean the full wide track package, à la Superlight? I'm a bit dim like.

Tim

[CharlesElliott]

Yes, this is actually a Supersport spec car - which is Academy spec, plus widetrack and CR500 tyres [it probably has a rear ARB too]. Race spec is minus windscreen and lights, but these have obviously been refitted....

[Z3MCJez]

If it's true Supersport spec, it will also have revised valve springs and injectors, good for another 500 revs and (I'm told) 5bhp. As Charles says, it would lose the lights and screen to be a proper Supersport. While it may not have the rear ARB, I'm not sure I've seen a single RSB/Supersport car without one on the track.

Roadsport B wouldn't have the injectors, but would have the valve springs.

Getting in or out of a Caterham with a hood on is hard work. It's actually easier if the hood is over a cage, as you've got something to pull yourself out from.

[coyoteracer11]

Do you want it for road use only or trackdays too? If the former I would get rid of the cage and replace it with an FIA bar. As others have said it makes no difference to whether you can fit a hood. If trackdays as well you may with to think about keeping the cage or changing it for the newer Sigma cage which is FAR easier for the driver to get in and out of. Less passenger-friendly though.

For road use only I would also change the springs/dampers back to the softer Academy ones, add doors and add another seat & harness (it only has one of each!). Maybe put in a heater and some carpets too, and change the screen for a heated one. All this lot adds a fair bit onto the purchase price...

Tbh I think a "standard" ex-Academy/RSB car would make a better roadcar, and be cheaper than a Supersport. And as Jez says, there's not a lot of difference in the performance.

[timrw81]

[quote=coyoteracer11]

"For road use only I would also change the springs/dampers back to the softer Academy ones, add doors and add another seat & harness (it only has one of each!). Maybe put in a heater and some carpets too, and change the screen for a heated one. All this lot adds a fair bit onto the purchase price..."



Would be for fast road use.

So the softest setting on this Supersport example would still be firmer than the basic Academy springs/dampers?

I'd probably keep it as listed to find out what I like/don't like and progress from there.

Extra seat/harness: Yes
Carpets: No
Heated windscreen: Is this a must have for wet weather + hood driving or would a chamois keep windscreen mist at bay?

Tbh, I'm not fussed about how tricky it is to get in and out of so would not spend on replacing rollbar at this stage.

Edited by timrw81 on Monday 27th September 16:15

[1st_petrolhead]

Whatever you do replace the shocks and springs with the road setup unless you like a hard ride and always feeling like your about to delve into the scenery

[coyoteracer11]

timrw81 said:

So the softest setting on this Supersport example would still be firmer than the basic Academy springs/dampers?

Yes. Quite noticeably so as Petrolhead says. Tracks are smooth, roads are not.

[Fred Gassit]

"I'm not bothered about a lot of power."

You soon will be!

The light weight of an academy car means the 0-60 is brisk, but the brick-wall aero means you run out of steam half way through A-road overtakes.
For "fast road" use you definitely need more grunt.

On track lack of power is not so important, as you are able to fully explore the handling and maintain maximum corner speed. On the road you have to consider there may be a tractor round every blind bend so, unless you are a suicidal f*ckwit, you can only hit the gas when you have vision ahead. That makes point-n-squirt horsepower essential.

[dirty boy]

Fred Gassit said:

The light weight of an academy car means the 0-60 is brisk, but the brick-wall aero means you run out of steam half way through A-road overtakes.

Is an academy car lighter than say the roadsport equivalent?

I'm currently interested in an academy car you see, and in all honesty, i'm worried if 138bhp is going to be enough to satisfy me.

Am I right in thinking I should expect circa 5 seconds as a 0-60? I guess when my arse hairs will be touching the ground, that will be ample.

[timrw81]

With me it's down to budget. Lots of power would be nice - my aim would be R400 - but I'd rather go for the goodies I mentioned above to make the most of the limited power available than go for more power and sacrifice the goodies. From the 7s I've driven, it's things like Tillett seats, lowered floors and quick rack that have made me feel most connected to the car. To be honest, that's my reason for liking 7s anyway - to be driving something so intimately controllable.

I drive defensively, but have the luxury of living in Yorkshire where there's loads of quite clear sighted B-roads and where I can throw my car ito corners a bit harder. It's pretty darn good in my MX-5 already!