Duratec heater delete

Duratec heater delete

Author
Discussion

boss351

Original Poster:

68 posts

185 months

Saturday 11th September 2010
quotequote all
Does anyone have any pictures before/after or straight non-heater Duratec cars? I am looking to see what the best method is to plug-off the outlet to the hose at the back of the engine is and also what size (diameter) 90 deg L would replace the T at the front of the engine where the hoses go to the heater.

Also, is that all that is needed to be done to remove the heater (besides removing the heater bits themselves and covering up the firewall hole?

Front intake side:


Back:

mic

376 posts

238 months

Sunday 12th September 2010
quotequote all
You do not need to blank the outlets, join them together with one hose.

David Long

1,224 posts

184 months

Sunday 12th September 2010
quotequote all
Yes, join them together as the design is to have coolant circulating here at all times.

boss351

Original Poster:

68 posts

185 months

Sunday 12th September 2010
quotequote all
That back hose is also on a 'T' of sorts, there is a return to the radiator coming off the intake side.

Just going out for a quick blat, when I get back I'll draw up a current plumbing diagram.

mic

376 posts

238 months

Sunday 12th September 2010
quotequote all
The T piece goes to the expansion tank.

Edited by mic on Sunday 12th September 14:06

boss351

Original Poster:

68 posts

185 months

Monday 13th September 2010
quotequote all
mic said:
The T piece goes to the expansion tank.

Edited by mic on Sunday 12th September 14:06
That back outlet actually has three hoses coming from it, one to the radiator, one to the expansion tank and one to the heater. I don't believe there would be any downside to capping off the one T connection at the front that is coming from the heater and this one at the back that goes to the heater. I am going to take a look at an R300 later that has no heater to see what was done on it.

Nicodema

259 posts

223 months

Monday 13th September 2010
quotequote all
If you don't have Modine style oil cooler then you just need to join the two ports you've identified in your two photos. That's what CC do on heaterless cars, but now they run the hose via the Modine that they fit onto the oil filter turret.

If you cap off the ports you wouldn't have a path for the coolant to take while the thermostat was closed would you? Correct me if I'm wrong.

Martyn

boss351

Original Poster:

68 posts

185 months

Monday 13th September 2010
quotequote all
I have the air-cooled oil cooler and yes, I think you might be right about needing to join the hoses now. Where is the thermostat exactly?

mic

376 posts

238 months

Monday 13th September 2010
quotequote all
The stat is in the black housing which your T piece is connected to.

David Long

1,224 posts

184 months

Monday 13th September 2010
quotequote all
The duratec has the thermostat on the return so it is important to keep the heater flow (as well as the by-pass hose) It will help to ensure the thermostat gets hot with the rest of the engine.

boss351

Original Poster:

68 posts

185 months

Monday 20th September 2010
quotequote all
Heater has gone, now I need to make a cool air intake box:



You can see the splice of the hoses that went to/from the heater. I am probably going to replace the splice with the T connector that lets you bleed the system there.

James.S

585 posts

217 months

Tuesday 21st September 2010
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CC already do a cold air intake kit for Duratec.

It is fitted to the race cars.

sam919

1,078 posts

201 months

Tuesday 21st September 2010
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You could use one of these and simplify the hose situation + maintain stat postition

http://www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_section.as...

boss351

Original Poster:

68 posts

185 months

Wednesday 22nd September 2010
quotequote all
Finished last night, just need to adjust the height now: