Removing thermostat housing from K series?
Discussion
Is there an *easy* way to remove the t/stat housing from a K series without removing the throttle bodies? I also have the dry sump pump in the way, so can't gain access from the side.
I just can't seem to be able to bleed the fecker to keep the temps sensible. I'm going to drill a 2mm hole in the side of the t/stat itself to assist with bleeding, and also make sure that the (new) stat actually opens. Should have checked this prior to assembly....
I've got new seals for the t/stat housing lined up already for when I knacker the old ones
I just can't seem to be able to bleed the fecker to keep the temps sensible. I'm going to drill a 2mm hole in the side of the t/stat itself to assist with bleeding, and also make sure that the (new) stat actually opens. Should have checked this prior to assembly....
I've got new seals for the t/stat housing lined up already for when I knacker the old ones
Not that I know of! I had trouble getting the housing off with the engine on a stand and all the ancillaries removed.
On a more helpful note, I think I will change to the remote thermostat this winter when the engine comes out for a refresh - you might want to consider this route. I am fairly sure there are some details on blatchat about how to do that and what parts are needed.
On a more helpful note, I think I will change to the remote thermostat this winter when the engine comes out for a refresh - you might want to consider this route. I am fairly sure there are some details on blatchat about how to do that and what parts are needed.
Make sure you remove the front bolt's the main one is long, used to hold the dipstick which i dont think you now have.
After that TUG like a mad man it is as simple as 1 single O ring and alot of tugging!!
Just pulled my stat housing out while it is on a engine stand, not a easy task! good luck behind all you bits yous till have on!
After that TUG like a mad man it is as simple as 1 single O ring and alot of tugging!!
Just pulled my stat housing out while it is on a engine stand, not a easy task! good luck behind all you bits yous till have on!
It is definitely a pig of a job but possible with the DS pump and TB's in place. On an EU2 engine I removed the coil pack to get a bit more access and then came in from under the throttlebodies using a long thin extension and socket and a lot of sweat! Replacing the unit, I fitted the J hose (as it was new, I put it in boiling water to soften it) and then used a rag and pair of molegrips on the other end to help pull the housing into the block (the rag is stop the grips chewing into the rubber). I used a tiny smear of silicone lubricant to help overcome the resistance on the seals too.
HTH
HTH
I got mine off by undoing the bolt which also holds the dipstick on. Then getting a mallet and piece of wood (2x1) and knocking it off. To start with I was a bit hesitant and it wouldn't come off. Then I smacked it and it flew out. No damage to anything and off it popped.
I do think that it hadn't been removed in many a year though.
Mind out for splitting the O ring when putting the housing back in. I've done it twice!
I do think that it hadn't been removed in many a year though.
Mind out for splitting the O ring when putting the housing back in. I've done it twice!
Incorrigible said:
Gingerbread Man said:
Mind out for splitting the O ring when putting the housing back in. I've done it twice!
Are you sure there's an air lock, and that the 'stat is working
BTW did you sort that diff/driveshaft/rear wheel problem ?
I've now done the following to the back end:
- new propshaft UJs
- straightened driveshaft
- new rear wheel bearings
I haven't driven the car since June as haven't had time, but also been sorting the cutout issue (new FIA switch, removed all the immob and redundant wiring, new CPS, cleaned up/made good loads of joints in the loom/switches). Hopefully this will have sorted it!
Need to refill the diff, and sort the high water temps, then can go back on track!
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