Failed MOT. Questions.

Failed MOT. Questions.

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Gingerbread Man

Original Poster:

9,173 posts

218 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
quotequote all
Right, the 7 failed it's MOT. Gash as I wanted to use it on Sunday but a few questions to help me get it back on the road.

The car is a 1999 VVC.


1. Numberplate lights. - earthing problem, so an easy job. Not the first time it's gone wrong though.

2. Fog light switch bulb does not illuminate. - Didn't know it needed it and didn't think twice about it not doing so.
Does anybody know what type of bulb is this? I was thinking of getting a replacement LED bulb if available from UltraLEDs. Till then, I'll take it out of the heated screen switch.

3. Front wheel bearing. - I have two new ones of these sat in the shed as it was an advisory a year or two back. After tightening it up all was fine. Online guides say I might have a pain getting the race back on. Oven and freezer has been mentioned.

4. Need a new rear tyre. - Currently have Toyo 888's at the front which are lowish and Yokohama 21r's at the rear. My first thought was 21's all round as we are soon to be going into the wetter months of the year (use the car daily). Sound a wise choice?

Golf Juliet Tang

87 posts

192 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
quotequote all
Sorry to hear that you need to go back.
That all appears to be solvable.
All the help you need is always on Blatchat as you know.
Regarding the rocker switch, I think the rules say it must iluminate when you turn on the lights. Secondly, with other rocker switches in a Caterham then the illumination tells you that the switch has an effect. If your screen heater fails the switch will not light up. Replace the lamp? read http://213-04.com/t.asp?id=192727 - edit to add: you have found this thread!

Your bearings - not done this but I do understand that it will be hard work.

I use Yoko 21s all the year and there are lots of other users who will endorse that choice. Personally I wouldn't mix them but if your experience is good then that is great.

Edited by Golf Juliet Tang on Thursday 2nd September 22:22

BertBert

19,497 posts

216 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
quotequote all
Wheel bearings are not that hard. They can be (gently and methodically) drifted out, the housing cleaned up and the new ones pushed in with some bearing fit to keep them there. I easily did mine without resorting to oven and freezer.

Bert

Guy Lowe

94 posts

173 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
quotequote all
The wheel bearings are easy, there are two cut outs in the hub to allow the use of a drift to gently tap the old bearings out (one hit on alternate sides each time) then tap the new bearings in with a suitable size socket. I did it a couple of months ago and it only took about 10 minutes per side.

I didn't bother using 'bearing fit', there not going anywhere but don't forget to pre grease the bearings before fitting.

With regard the fog light switch, why not just buy a new switch from CC £8.11 + P&P HERE
Guy

Incorrigible

13,668 posts

266 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
quotequote all
The only issue with the bearings is if the race has pulled through the hub

1. Has it failed on bearing play, or have they CLEARLY identified bearing wear ?

2. Have you adjusted the bearings

3. What year is it ? the are 2 different types of FWB the earlier type is more finely adjustable but the later type is stronger. Earlier type as a smaller outer race (than the inner one, also identifiable by a fine pitched UNF thread, 3/4 (19mm) AF nut)

4. After adjustment is the brake disc obviously off centre in the calliper, this is more likely on the later bearing type.

5. If you are repeatedly adjusting the bearing in the later hub and the disc is moving closer to the caliper, the hub is shot.

Until you've gone through this you won't know whether to replace the races. If you do see the other posts

thumbup

Glasgow2

84 posts

170 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
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[quote=Gingerbread Man]
1. Numberplate lights. - earthing problem, so an easy job. Not the first time it's gone wrong though.

Not sure what you mean by Earthing problem... Just changes my number plate light last weekend. I noticed there is only one red wire attached to the bulbs. looks like no earthing for mine. Would it be a problem?

normalbloke

7,615 posts

224 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
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Sounds like a pretty harsh MOT man to me re the fog light switch!

Gingerbread Man

Original Poster:

9,173 posts

218 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
quotequote all
Glasgow2 said:
Gingerbread Man said:
1. Numberplate lights. - earthing problem, so an easy job. Not the first time it's gone wrong though.

Not sure what you mean by Earthing problem... Just changes my number plate light last weekend. I noticed there is only one red wire attached to the bulbs. looks like no earthing for mine. Would it be a problem?
Positive going to it via the red wire, then it completes the circuit by earthily back through the chassis to the battery negative. I think it's a little bit of corrosion getting in the way.

Glasgow2

84 posts

170 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
quotequote all
Gingerbread Man said:
Positive going to it via the red wire, then it completes the circuit by earthily back through the chassis to the battery negative. I think it's a little bit of corrosion getting in the way.
Do i need another wire for earthing or just the metal screw of the light box attached to the wheel carrier will act as earthing? (excuse my DIY ignorance)

Gingerbread Man

Original Poster:

9,173 posts

218 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
quotequote all
Glasgow2 said:
Gingerbread Man said:
Positive going to it via the red wire, then it completes the circuit by earthily back through the chassis to the battery negative. I think it's a little bit of corrosion getting in the way.
Do i need another wire for earthing or just the metal screw of the light box attached to the wheel carrier will act as earthing? (excuse my DIY ignorance)
Just earths through it's fitting to the wheel carrier

Yellow 7

177 posts

177 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
quotequote all
The in switch lights are fed by push on spade contacts either side of the switch - these can come off so check that.

Bulbs are tiny but replaceable. Can't remember the spec though. Could alway rob from a non critical switch that is working - screen heater or blower for example.

Wheel bearings as said just split the hub and brake disc and drift out with suitable socket. Ditto for in with new ones.
There is loads on BC about adjusting bearings. A bit to tight then back off and split pin. Should not be loads of play but not too tight either...

Gingerbread Man

Original Poster:

9,173 posts

218 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
quotequote all
I give the bearings a bash tomorrow, so hopefully all will go well. No doubt I'll be on here with questions at the ready!

Incorrigible

13,668 posts

266 months

Sunday 5th September 2010
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Yellow 7 said:
There is loads on BC about adjusting bearings. A bit to tight then back off and split pin. Should not be loads of play but not too tight either...
There "should" be no play at all. the bearings are designed to run a little preload

Not always possible on the later model hubs