Replacing rear pads

[edb49]

Just reading this guide:

http://alcester-racing-sevens.com/rear_brake_pads....

Can I use a C-clamp instead of the piston wind-back tool? Hate to admit it but I haven't changed pads since I was a student and had a hot hatch many years ago, but I feel I should do at least some of the TLC my car needs as a requisite of 7 ownership.

[fergus]

edb49 said:

Just reading this guide:

http://alcester-racing-sevens.com/rear_brake_pads....

Can I use a C-clamp instead of the piston wind-back tool? Hate to admit it but I haven't changed pads since I was a student and had a hot hatch many years ago, but I feel I should do at least some of the TLC my car needs as a requisite of 7 ownership.

You can use a big f-off screwdriver as long as you don't a) damage the pistons, b) get the pistons pushing back in on the pi.ss.

You can also use your hands. The pistons shouldn't take a lot of pushing back into their bores. But you will have to watch for the opposing side/adjacent piston not trying to creep out. Really not difficult.

[Yellow 7]

You need to do just that - wind the pistons back in. No amount of pushing will work on the rears!
For years I used long nosed pointed pliers carefully catching in the indents on the piston face but you can slip and damage the seals - not that I ever did, but a proper wind back tool is easier and quicker.

You may need to take some fluid out of the reservoir as you go too or it may overflow.

[Incorrigible]

I think the A7 article sums it up pretty well, there are quite a few little bits in the article that are relevant

[Yellow 7]

Incorrigible said:

I think the A7 article sums it up pretty well, there are quite a few little bits in the article that are relevant

It does apart from the crucial fact that you must wind the piston back - not push! It implies the tool forces the piston in - WRONG. The tool applies the necessary pressure whilst the two pins turn the piston on its thread. The thread on the piston is there for the handbrake mech giving it the auto adjust feature.

No handbrake the front callipers so those pistons just push in.

Bleeding is the next issue if needed. I have found bleeding and actuating the handbrake vigorously to work pretty well to expel the air.
Best of all is to remove the calliper and have it at an angle that allows the air to be expelled i.e. highest point - flexible brake lines needed for that one...

Edited by Yellow 7 on Tuesday 10th August 23:38

[edb49]

Cool, thanks for your help guys.

[fergus]

Yellow 7 said:

You need to do just that - wind the pistons back in. No amount of pushing will work on the rears!
For years I used long nosed pointed pliers carefully catching in the indents on the piston face but you can slip and damage the seals - not that I ever did, but a proper wind back tool is easier and quicker.

You may need to take some fluid out of the reservoir as you go too or it may overflow.

Ah. On a car with a handbrake, correct. My rears don't have a handbrake attachment, hence my comments. Wasn't aware it was a road car.

[edb49]

There seem to be about a zillion different types of piston wind back tool, or rather adaptors. Can someone point me to the appropriate one on Amazon please?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_10?url=...

[Yellow 7]

This one looks very like the one I got...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-Piston-Wind-Back-Do...

The only poss of it being wrong is the plate which locates to give purchase.
Needing a wind back tool for a Golf, a mate of mine made a plate out of the old brake pad to suit... So I have Sierra and VW covered:-)
Nice bit of precision work with his angle grinder...

Edited by Yellow 7 on Friday 13th August 01:01